another new guy from NC

[Tig]

Well, started it up today. Sucker is loud, especially in my shed, hah.
I need to roll it outside and start it up and take a video.

I really need to bleed the brakes and figure out the steering. If I turn to the left its fine, if I turn to the right the steering link hits my leg. I'm also not too keen on the position of the seat. I feel like I'm lying back too far, I think I'm going to have to move the seat around to get it in a more comfortable position and still be able to reach the pedals.

I wish there was more time in a day, hah

 

[danssoslow]

Yeah, those seats can be a pain to set up; but once you've got it where you want it, you're glued in place. If you want to quiet the exhaust down a bit, measure the outside diameter of the header at its largest stage, and pick up a kart muffler for it. You'll have to cut off that trumpet tip to get slip the muffler on; but it's quick and effective. You can find used ones on ebay, just be sure of that diameter when you buy. New ones are in the $35-50 range.

It will be nice when 4cycle picks back up. People practically give headers away.

 

[OzFab]

If I turn to the left its fine, if I turn to the right the steering link hits my leg.

That's because the right tierod sits higher than the left.

I'm also not too keen on the position of the seat. I feel like I'm lying back too far, I think I'm going to have to move the seat around to get it in a more comfortable position and still be able to reach the pedals.

Those seats are a custom setup for the person who drives it most.

Leave the two front mounts intact, remove the bolts from the rear mounts & rotate the seat until it's comfortable. That should also solve the tierod issue

I wish there was more time in a day, hah

Don't we all...

 

[Tig]

Yeah, those seats can be a pain to set up; but once you've got it where you want it, you're glued in place. If you want to quiet the exhaust down a bit, measure the outside diameter of the header at its largest stage, and pick up a kart muffler for it. You'll have to cut off that trumpet tip to get slip the muffler on; but it's quick and effective. You can find used ones on ebay, just be sure of that diameter when you buy. New ones are in the $35-50 range.

It will be nice when 4cycle picks back up. People practically give headers away.

Seriously, hah. The way its mounted is not the greatest. The back mounts are crappy and up front there's one bolt and a zip tie, hah.
Once I get it figured out it should be more comfortable.

Thanks for the info on the mufflers. I'm going to go troll the bay and see what I can find.

That's because the right tierod sits higher than the left.

Those seats are a custom setup for the person who drives it most.

Leave the two front mounts intact, remove the bolts from the rear mounts & rotate the seat until it's comfortable. That should also solve the tierod issue

Don't we all...

Yeah, I'm thinking of changing that steering link design. Maybe find a center link style and roll with that. I'm going to be googling it later tonight for some ideas.

I'd love to meet the guy who drove it before me, hah. It was such an uncomfortable position, unless he was a little taller, no clue.
Good idea about leaving the front mounts connected, I'll do that.
Hmm, you're right it may help out with the steering links hitting my leg.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to post a video from my phone. If you cant tell, I'm not too electronically advanced

 

[danssoslow]

I'll second the tech notion. Ifnyou have a smart phone, start a youtube account and download the app. From your phone, you can forward the video to youtube. Once you have the account and app, it's really no different than looking up a pic and forwarding it via text to a friend.

As far as those seats go, I haven't seen many used ones that didn't have 4bazillion holes drilled in it. Moving the seat around, hanging lead weights, etc. Sooner or later, they all look like they were on the bad end of a drive-by. I believe Comet had some seats they were liquidating; but they can still be pricey.

 

[Tig]

Ahh, thanks for the info about youtube. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow.

Yeah, I have been keeping my eye out for a seat. No rush though, I'll more than likely salvage what I have, maybe throw some kind of pads in the side bolsters. I'd rather throw the money towards another part for the kart.

Thanks again, I appreciate the info

 

[OzFab]

As far as those seats go, I haven't seen many used ones that didn't have 4bazillion holes drilled in it. Moving the seat around, hanging lead weights, etc. Sooner or later, they all look like they were on the bad end of a drive-by.

That's nothing a fibreglass kit can't fix I had the same problem with mine, now it looks like new

 

[Tig]

That's nothing a fibreglass kit can't fix I had the same problem with mine, now it looks like new

What kit did you use to repair your seat?

That is something I forgot to mention when receiving the kart. The previous owner had two front sections of the body and one set of sides. Both fronts have some decent wear and tear.
I'm planning on repairing them.

 

[OzFab]

Just a basic kit like this. Obviously, mine was a little different but, the concept is the same

 

[Tig]

Gatcha. Have you used kitty hair to do any repairs?

Thanks

 

[OzFab]

I had to look that one up, just to be sure. We call it gorilla hair over here...

Yes, i've used it quite a bit (I'm a panel beater by trade) but, I'm not a big fan, not that it doesn't work, just, to me, it's cheating & it's only used as a quick fix, not as a permanent solution.

I don't like cutting corners so, if I'm repairing fibreglass, I repair it with fibreglass, not some semblance of it; if I'm repairing steel, I repair it with steel; If you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. I only ever use it when specifically instructed to do so & I've never personally bought it.

Having said that, I'm not saying it won't do the job, I just prefer to do things the correct way. Fibreglass resin will bond to itself so I feel you'll get a better result using the real thing rather than kitty hair; you may end up with a poor bond & be back to square one...

 

[Tig]

Haha, that's too funny.

Panel beater, nice. We call that auto body mechanic in the US.

I am also not a fan of cheating/cutting corners. Starting as a structural welder by trade, if I cut corners, other peoples lives are in danger. Doing it right the first time is my only option.

I was just asking. I have not used it before and someone had suggested I use it for the smaller sections. I completely agree in terms of fiber resin sticking to fiber and am going that route as I want it to be a structurally sound as possible. I may add some backing to it to make it a little more ridged as it is very flimsy (the body not the seat). The seat should be a simple fix.

Thanks

 

[OzFab]

I may add some backing to it to make it a little more ridged as it is very flimsy (the body not the seat). The seat should be a simple fix.

Body?

Just looking back at the pics I remembered the clearance issue between the seat & the clutch; that may be part of the reason why the seat is in such a position.

Can you post some pics of the engine mount as well as the front seat mounts?

 

[Tig]

Yeah, the previous owner had a couple of front sections and a pair of side panels that I also acquired with the kart.
I'll take some pics tomorrow, they are in storage under the house.

You are absolutely correct. I noticed that when I went out to figure out what direction I need to go. The seat will definitely hit the clutch if I move the back of the seat up.

I sure can, be back in a bit if not tomorrow.

EDIT I'll get those pics up tomorrow, my phone just died

 

[Tig]

Here's a shot of the motor mount, not the greatest but you get the idea.


Seat mount from the top


from the bottom


Still waiting on the body pics to go through.

 

[danssoslow]

A simple way to add some rigidity to that motor mount would be to connect the two vertical mounts via some thick all thread. The more solid the bridge you are creating the better.

The weak point in those two piece mounts is that thy rely on the engine block to stay parallel. Depending on how much your frame moves and how hard you are driving, therefore tweeking the frame, the engine may have a hard time keeping the vertical pieces in check. This can result in a cracked block.

Three piece mounts with a solid plate are very expensive; but all that top plate does is relieve that stress from the motor. Do the same by creating a solid bridge (basically making it an I beam, but the two bridges spread out would be better than one) between them and save yourself $75.

 

[Soapbox kid]

Welcome from a fellow N.C. i'm in Durham.Nice setup I have a few extra parts & always willing to run help just ask....& again welcome to diy (late I kno been playing with other toys)

 

[OzFab]

Looking back through your pics, there's only two real solutions to the clearance issue that I can see
1. Move the seat across to the left; yes, it'll be a bit skewed but, you should get used to it
2. Redrill the engine mount & move the engine across to the right

 

[Tig]

A simple way to add some rigidity to that motor mount would be to connect the two vertical mounts via some thick all thread. The more solid the bridge you are creating the better.

The weak point in those two piece mounts is that thy rely on the engine block to stay parallel. Depending on how much your frame moves and how hard you are driving, therefore tweeking the frame, the engine may have a hard time keeping the vertical pieces in check. This can result in a cracked block.

Three piece mounts with a solid plate are very expensive; but all that top plate does is relieve that stress from the motor. Do the same by creating a solid bridge (basically making it an I beam, but the two bridges spread out would be better than one) between them and save yourself $75.

That is a good idea about using some all thread. I have some DOM that I can cut as a spacer to stiffen it up some more.

To be honest, I'm not too fond of that motor mount. It'll do until I find a new drivetrain, the last one didn't work out and am on the prowl for a replacement.
Do you have any images of a 3 piece mount?

Welcome from a fellow N.C. i'm in Durham.Nice setup I have a few extra parts & always willing to run help just ask....& again welcome to diy (late I kno been playing with other toys)

Hey cool, someone local. I'm in Raleigh.
I'll be in touch
Thanks for the welcome, I appreciate it.

Looking back through your pics, there's only two real solutions to the clearance issue that I can see
1. Move the seat across to the left; yes, it'll be a bit skewed but, you should get used to it
2. Redrill the engine mount & move the engine across to the right

I'm going to try both of those solutions. I did notice the motor mounts have several holes, so that may be the easiest for right now.


Another thing I noticed is one of the header bolt holes is stripped out

Here's a shot of one of the front section of the body that came with the kart. My computer does not want to cooperate with me and I'm having a hard time downloading the others.

 

[Tig]

I had a few minutes to spare so I went out to start it up and let it idle for a bit while I was turning gears in my head about the seat.
The previous owner used a drill with a socket to start it. What I didn't realize is he (or someone) removed the cover that holds the assembly together. When I started it up that square drive came off and all the bearings fell out after it. Nothing a couple of screws wont fix. I'm glad this happened while it was on the stands and not on the street.