Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build

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bob58o

bob58o

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After reevaluating my welding skills, I think I want to drill through the bearing hanger and use nuts to secure it and as spacers.

????

---------- Post added at 09:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------

And after reading, probably drill through the 1.5" square tubing instead.

---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 PM ----------

5/16" drill bit for a 3/8" - 16 bolt.
1.5" Steel Square Tubing

about 4" bolt and I can cut the rest.


For drilling straight through tubing....?????
small pilot holes on each side?
 
Jrgunn5150

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bob58o said:
After reevaluating my welding skills, I think I want to drill through the bearing hanger and use nuts to secure it and as spacers.

????

---------- Post added at 09:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------

And after reading, probably drill through the 1.5" square tubing instead.

---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 PM ----------

5/16" drill bit for a 3/8" - 16 bolt.
1.5" Steel Square Tubing

about 4" bolt and I can cut the rest.


For drilling straight through tubing....?????
small pilot holes on each side?
Click to expand...

Do you have a center punch?
 
bob58o

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Jrgunn5150 said:
Do you have a center punch?
Click to expand...

Yep. But I already drilled to 5/16" debating if I should tap or drill bigger.
I think tap.

Got to go to work now. I will finish at 3am.

---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 PM ----------

Soon I will have a complete go kart. What qualifies? Engine, wheels, seat, throttle linkage, brakes. Check!
 
chancer

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and a 4" bolt is gonna have a shoulder with no threads.
You have to hold the drill very straight to make sure the hole lines up in each side of the tube.
It has to be straight side to side and up and down. PAIN IN THE ARSE to get right.
Once I took a stripped down kart and put the whole thing in my Drill press just to get it right!

Hey just a vote of confidence lol Drill away.

Maybe measure and mark both sides and drill each side separately.
 
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My suggestion of drilling through the frame was because if you just weld a bolt on one side it will more then likely shear off or bend the wall of the tube. If you go through and just bolt it on it will crush the tube.
Get a bolt with enough non threaded shank to go through the frame rail and the brake band, Leave enough thread on the end to put on a lock nut to keep the band in place.
It looks like your drum is on the left side (looking from back). Drill a 3/8" hole perpendicular through the frame rail were you want to place the band. Put the bolt through it and tack weld the head on the right side. Take a 1"x 2" .125 (I am assuming it is 1" square tube)plate and drill a 3/8" hole through the center of it. Put the plate over the bolt on the left side (to reinforce it) weld the plate to the frame rail on the top on bottom but not the ends. Weld the bolt to the plate, do not under cut the weld on the bolt.
Use a grade 8 bolt.

If the tube is 1 1/2" make the plate 1.5"x3"
It will work but not ideal since it is in single shear. Just have in mind that when applying the brakes the force will want to bend the bolt since the end is not supported..
 
bob58o

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rk970

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Most hardware stores should have some bits of 1/8" plate. It does not have to be 1/8" (1/8" 3/16, 1/4). The plate will help spread the force out into the frame. Having the hole not centered in the frame rail is not a problem, drill the corresponding offset in the plate.
Bolts have a tendency to snap at the root of the threads when a shear force is applied. This is the reason for having part of the non threaded portion of the bolt go through the brake band
There is no "wrong" or "right" way. This is my suggestion based on my experience of the way I would do this mounting. I look at situation and then visualize the forces involved then over build the crap out of it..

rk


bob58o said:
It is 1.25" square tubing.

So 1.25" x 2.50" x 0.125"
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3721/=13diymm

4" long 3/8 - 16 with 1"-1.3125" Threaded grade 8

1.4375" - 1.75" Non threaded part for band.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cap-screws/=13dj1x3

The hole I drilled is not centered in the tubing. I assume make the plate flush with the tubing (top n bottom) and just align the holes?
Click to expand...
 
bob58o

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rk970 said:
Most hardware stores should have some bits of 1/8" plate. It does not have to be 1/8" (1/8" 3/16, 1/4). The plate will help spread the force out into the frame. Having the hole not centered in the frame rail is not a problem, drill the corresponding offset in the plate.
Bolts have a tendency to snap at the root of the threads when a shear force is applied. This is the reason for having part of the non threaded portion of the bolt go through the brake band
There is no "wrong" or "right" way. This is my suggestion based on my experience of the way I would do this mounting. I look at situation and then visualize the forces involved then over build the crap out of it..

rk
Click to expand...

Nope, no turning back now. It is in the thread. It is decided. THIS IS THE WAY.:roflol:
 
bob58o

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http://www.hondahouseofelmhurst.com/m_promotions.asp
CLOSED, but inside the empty building lives a nice old man in a Honda hat and a dog. I stayed for like 15 minutes listening.

EDIT: I'm sure he doesn't live there, I was kidding. He told me the story of how it was getting turned into some kind of dog hotel. LOL

Per our conversation, the transaction is complete - EXCEPT for the $$$$$. The Money part goes down tomorrow. Seems like too much information. Is it like a brief case exchange?

Guys with guns on Honda bikes and masks???
vs
Guys with guns and dogs with issues?



Also, from our converation, clones are not as good as genuine Hondas and it may be hard to find genuine parts for some older Hondas. Also there is another MotorSports store about 10 miles away on North Avenue.
 
Iron John

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chancer said:
I have used band brakes, and installed a return spring on the band only. none on the pedal.
I also only use a rod.
I did not mean to avoid your question, but I do not think I was doing them correctly LOL.
So I did not want to spread bad info around. But I dunno my brakes work.
Click to expand...

Funny, I've done it the other way. Rod actuated, a spring at the pedal end, and no spring at the band (the band will open on its own).

Tomato, tomahtoh.
 
bob58o

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Well the place where I put the post for the band is probably not where I wanted it. The band fit so snug and completely wrapped around the drum when I mocked it up. Now the part of the band near the pivot wont touch the drum even when fully engaged. And with the cable (instead of rod supporting it) gravity causes the other side of the band to hang and touch the drum. Working on the cable to get this right, but I think I am going to add some sort of support under the the band, so that it can pivot counter clockwise but not clockwise.


The misplacement of the pivot may render these brakes useless. I decided to proceed and find out.

It is a learning experience once again.

---------- Post added at 06:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------

Ill get some pictures in a second.
 
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