Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build

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bob58o

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I like what a return spring on the band will do for me.

It may not be an issue once it gets shaped after a few uses!
 

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bob58o

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Poboy kartman

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Bob...IDKY...and I DON'T CARE...but the common consensus is ...when you use a cable on a brake band....you need a return spring....

MAYBE....JUST...MAYBE....stay with me now...it's because a ROD works both ways...and will return it to proper position? Remember...a properly set up brake band is designed to "lock" around the drum.

Now....go to the toilet...put your head in .
..and flush twice..
 
bob58o

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Poboy kartman said:
Bob...IDKY...and I DON'T CARE...but the common consensus is ...when you use a cable on a brake band....you need a return spring....

MAYBE....JUST...MAYBE....stay with me now...it's because a ROD works both ways...and will return it to proper position? Remember...a properly set up brake band is designed to "lock" around the drum.

Now....go to the toilet...put your head in .
..and flush twice..
Click to expand...


Well, I was thinking the band itself is the return spring for the band.
My pedal is still hooked up to the master cylinder (works for pedal return).

I was first worried about a little rubbing then realized that a lil rubbing wont even slow this down a bit. I tightened up the cable a bunch.

On to more important issues.

The brake pedal just folded. Didn't even start her up. Just pushing it around the drive way.
I should have switched how I had the cable connected to the pedal after adjusting the brake "prelaod?".
 
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bob58o said:
Well, I was thinking the band itself is the return spring for the band.
My pedal is still hooked up to the master cylinder (works for pedal return).

I was first worried about a little rubbing then realized that a lil rubbing wont even slow this down a bit. I tightened up the cable a bunch.

On to more important issues.

The brake pedal just folded. Didn't even start her up. Just pushing it around the drive way.
Click to expand...

We can't take you anywhere...please surrender your DIY card!!!!:lolgoku:
 
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ezcome-ezgo said:
A circumferential spring doesn't seem like a good idea.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that a spring like the blue one would open it up, but might lift the band and cause rubbing. A rubber band test seemed like it'd be OK.

The red one would probably rub the drum constantly.

I didn't like the way a spring anchored to the frame would look, but will go that route if I need it.

---------- Post added at 11:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 AM ----------
Poboy kartman said:
We can't take you anywhere...please surrender your DIY card!!!!:lolgoku:
Click to expand...

I should have known a 1/4" movement at the pedal wasn't right, but wanted these to get tight!
 
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Me thinks after reading all this (it's quite ocd) that clearing the return port in the master cylinder would allow you to bleed them.
 
bob58o

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Well. I NOW CAN LOCK UP MY AXLE AND SLIDE INTO REALLY TIGHT PARKING SPACES!!!!!
VIDEO TO COME!!!!!!!!
Still took about 45 feet with the bald tires to stop from a good speed.

---------- Post added at 03:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21 PM ----------
rk970 said:
Me thinks after reading all this (it's quite ocd) that clearing the return port in the master cylinder would allow you to bleed them.
Click to expand...


I hope you didn't read all of it!!! I usually just waited around for you to give me some pointers. LOL

---------- Post added at 03:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------

OCD? Poboy diagnosed as Aspergers..

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:24 PM ----------

I got this before...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9nlzNcujFs

and this too (flattering)..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrOZllbNarw

---------- Post added at 03:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------

The best was this!!!!!


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Or is it just me?
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ezcome-ezgo

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The waiting... the anticipation. The summery haze. And then, as in stories of old, our hero appears, like a white knight.
 
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SOME MORE BUTT DYNO AFR TESTING,

BUTT

I don't know what it means.

GIVE ME THE ANSWERS BRO!!!

Whacking the Throttle Wide Open from Idle Stalls the Engine.
The only obvious issue right now is when I punch it.
Didn't notice any backfire or bogging sound?
Still don't know if there is a difference between bog and stall.

I read this may be a problem with this set up.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

Not getting enough gas during transition from Low to Main circuit?

My previous "Prep" Research (IIRC) learned me that the air bleed jets "SET" the vacuum level for the transition?

One size jet for the Main circuit to come on quicker?
One size jet to delay the transition to the main circuit ?

(Can be adjusted by drilling and tapping and custom making a set screw air bleeder jet if needed?)


Low RPM, WOT means No manifold vacuum, right?

Decreasing Main Circuit Air Bleed Jet (moves air faster, more vacuum???) will transition to the main circuit faster????

Also something about the pilot jet O-ring (s). Maybe I should add the top one?

Lastly was modding the transition holes in the pilot circuit next to the Fuel Mix screw behind the "WELCH PLUG".
Something like increasing the diameter by 0.002"?

See I Remember some of the stuff I read. AND some times it is relevant.



WHAT YA THINK????


Also heard engaging the clutch / TC above 3000 RPM helps. I got the springs for that.
The higher engine speed (at 3000 RPM) may increase the vacuum (faster air across the main circuit air bleed jet) and get to the main circuit quicker during quick transition from idle to WOT?
 
chancer

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bob58o said:
Well. The best was this!!!!!


chancer is
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Wait What!
 
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