A Saga of Two Warriors

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Hellion

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Greetings all.

Some time back, I finally initiated an interest in minibikes and "joined the club" ('bout time!). I bought a $75 Rupp Continental that needs work but that tiny spark set things in motion.

I finally bought a Baja Warrior/MB200 just so I could be like Joe. In reality it is a parts bike, a clunker and it leaves a lot to be desired. Somewhere down the line it was stripped of its fenders, headlight, original engine, jack shaft assembly and left with a non working 5HP Briggs tiller engine. It's labeled as a 4HP if you look closely on the shroud but the engine code numbers denote it as a 13 cubic inch engine (therefore a 5 horse). Interesting little factory blooper there...or was it "detuned" for Sears/Craftsman purposes?

The seller was attempting to make it run before I bought it and if he was successful, he was gonna charge me more--I forget if he ever set a dollar amount or not. I figured it was a valve leak or out of spec valve/tappet clearance after I looked at it, because it had no compression, no resistance when pulling the starter cord.

Here's pics from the original ad:

Can you dig the paint tray chain-guard? :D
 

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Hellion

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And now, as of Friday August 4, 2017, I own a fully functional Baja Warrior MB200. Thus ends my buying streak of non-running "fun machines" (that's what we'll call them).

This thread will document my efforts with the two bikes: to get the clunker running and document any and all changes to the runner. I suspect the runner will need the $60 Chinese Torq-A-Verter knock-off 'fleabay special' before too long.
 

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Hellion

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There's two Baja Warriors, hence the title.

The title is a nod and a homage to Whitetrashrocker.

That is a portion of a cobblestone walkway. Purty ain't it?

I took the cylinder head off of the "4 HP" and found out the intake valve was stuck open. That kind of makes starting and continued running very difficult. I deduced that the engine was left outside in the rain and without an air cleaner assy attached. That way, water was allowed to pool in the carburetor and in the intake port and just foul everything up.

The intake valve was rusted in the open position. Good thing too I guess since it still allowed the engine to turn over but not harm the valve train. If it was stuck closed, a 'roid-addled gym freak could possibly harm things with an enthusiastic pull or two.

Heat from a propane torch and some dousing with Liquid Wrench freed the stuck valve. It was fairly easy too, since all I did I was tap it down with a soft hammer. If it was stuck closed, getting it open would be a nightmare and I would quite possibly damage the area around the valve and its seat trying to pry it open.

Now if this were a normal engine, it's usually just the exhaust valve that gets the most wear and tear. Since both valves were moderately pitted and grooved (after cleaning and wire brushing), I took them to get refaced or resurfaced (or ground). I tried a new machine shop I'd never been to before and they did it for free! :wai:

PICS:
You can see the interior corrosion damage on the Pulsa Jet carb and the 'water line' left on the shorter pick up tube which is also part of the carburetor casting. This lets you know the carb was sitting in water and had water both in the main tank and the small reservoir. You can also see the broken off idle mixture needle which I mangled, not realizing it was corroded together. :)

So, uh, I'm experimenting now. I didn't feel like doing another carb rehab (the carb is quite wrecked on the inside) so I rolled the dice and bought a $17 Pulsa Jet knock-off from that famous auction site. It's made in China. Uh oh.

Other pics are of the almost completed engine minus the starter housing. Also note I have added an 11" straight header I had laying around. New carb is already installed and I repainted the gas tank. Not perfect but presentable.
 

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Hellion

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Like you Joe, I'm probably going to have to add some exhaust shielding or heat wrap around the pipe. I've read that such heat in such proximity to the carburetor and the fuel pump diaphragm especially, might cause some wonkiness or premature failure.

My formula for these engines is usually a cosmetic and functional refresh. I didn't open the crankcase on this one but there was some heartbreaking sludge in the sump that oozed out. From the top, the piston and cylinder looked decent but I curse Bubba! (the previous owner) I know he was a bonehead Bubba. :censored:

A little bit of mineral spirits sloshed around in the sump and the black what-was-once-oil residue came out. If I get around to it (or feel it's worth my time), she will get a run-in on fresh oil and then an oil change (a proper flushing) before being sold off. Otherwise, just fresh oil and leave it.

More pics; proof for Panhead. :p

Note the nifty tail light on the runner. Apparently another Bubba did that one too, in all its zip tie glory. That sucker drilled holes along the side and zip tied the wiring to the fender. Ugh! :mad::rolleyes:
 

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Hellion

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Bubba dun guud wit da talelite!!!

He sho nuff did. Spared no expense.

Let's get crackin on a TC and stuff!

The clunker won't get one because the engine doesn't have the 4 holes and just because. Ain't worth it.

Hopefully the Briggs will run the clunker bike though, slowly with the direct drive it has or smokingly at the clutch's expense. Not even sure.

The TC ain't gonna buy itself. Send me some funds, Daddy Warbucks!
 

Bbqjoe

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Hopefully it's not the Brown Note.


Oh, and
Thanks for the flowers Hellion, as we say on the radio. :cheers2:

Tey-fo guud buddy!
 

Hellion

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The mail was bountiful today

Five air filters (for 130200 series Briggs) for one low price, well under $10 & free shipping. You just can't beat that with a stick.

I seem to collect these engines like flies. Most older, nearly derelict go karts have one, in running condition or not, but if they have some sliver of life left in them I tend to fix the minor issues that I can and do a little "beautification" along the way. Briggs is stingy with paint and so the insides of the 'tins', the sheet metal parts, are always rusty. I like to grind the rust off, treat it or neutralize it then topcoat it with Rustoleum. I'm in an all-out war with rust.

I did the same with the typical clam shell air cleaner housing. Two tone, black on silver, also Rustoleum. That's about the best big box store spray paint you can buy, in my experience.
 

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Hellion

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One thing is certain, I'm using two cans of "project size" Semi Gloss Black and the paint eventually starts clogging at the spray tip, runs around the tip orifice and dribbles down around the top rim of the can...just on this particular color.

Been alternating using different spray tips and sloshing a used one in a jar of mineral spirits trying to use this color up...
 

Goat

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Like you Joe, I'm probably going to have to add some exhaust shielding or heat wrap around the pipe. I've read that such heat in such proximity to the carburetor and the fuel pump diaphragm especially, might cause some wonkiness or premature failure.

My formula for these engines is usually a cosmetic and functional refresh. I didn't open the crankcase on this one but there was some heartbreaking sludge in the sump that oozed out. From the top, the piston and cylinder looked decent but I curse Bubba! (the previous owner) I know he was a bonehead Bubba. :censored:

A little bit of mineral spirits sloshed around in the sump and the black what-was-once-oil residue came out. If I get around to it (or feel it's worth my time), she will get a run-in on fresh oil and then an oil change (a proper flushing) before being sold off. Otherwise, just fresh oil and leave it.

More pics; proof for Panhead. :p

Note the nifty tail light on the runner. Apparently another Bubba did that one too, in all its zip tie glory. That sucker drilled holes along the side and zip tied the wiring to the fender. Ugh! :mad::rolleyes:

Nice scooters but you need some ape hanger handlebars and a large skinny front tire.:kewlsmiley:
 

Hellion

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Ape hangers?! No way. :ack2:

In other news, IT'S ALIIIIVE!



I finally gave 'er a drink and watched what happened.

The brand new Chinese Pulsa-Jet copy works well, it just has no idle mixture adjustment. I thought it needed some adjustment as the engine was smoking as soon as it barked into life.
But...I had added a bit of oil to the top of the piston after I removed the head, so I could turn the engine over a few times checking valve clearances. I guess that was just the oil burning off.

It doesn't smoke any more. :thumbsup:

The long pipe had to go...those silly Chinese saw fit to place a down-tube right smack dab where the pipe needed to go. The way the engine mounts and the way the exhaust port is off center, you'd think there'd be plenty of room. No such luck. I put the pancake muffler back on and it's a nice thigh warmer now....
 

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