60HP 2-stroke Boat outboard engine clutch option?

[rodney007]

60HP 2-stroke Boat outboard engine

Hi Guys,

I am puting a Mariner (Yamaha) 60HP 2 Cylinder 2-stroke engine into my gokart.

The drive axle is quite small (18mm) and I am wanting a solution to get drive to the rear axle. The kart is not for racing purposes but more so just to get the engine running in the kart so I am not after super durability. I can have my drive axle size increased should it need to be.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I have contact several snow-mobile part supply stores in the United States as I was going to use a primary/secondary setup but they don't really know anything except part numbers.

Ideally I would simply have a clutch unit on the output shaft with a chain/belt to the rear axle (in the perfect world)

Is there such a thing?

Anyway, thanks in advance for any tips / advice.

-Rod

New Zealand

 

[landuse]

I am not too sure what to suggest. You are going to have to find a clutch that can handle that much power, and I have no idea what you could use.

What kart are you wanting to put this on, because if it isn't a buggy that has been specially reinforced to take that amount of torque, the kart is going to twist like a pretzel and you will be stripping gears and jackshafts all over the place

Post some pics of the frame you are going to use

Oh....and welcome to the forum!!

 

[ML-TOYS]

What i would like to know is how you plan in cooling the WATER cooled engine

 

[rodney007]

What i would like to know is how you plan in cooling the WATER cooled engine

I am having a laser cut flange made as we speak, this flange has water inlet and out let ports, (as well as the exhaust ports) I will then run a DC water pump and a radiator to cool the engine.

The frame is a typical Chinese frame that has been re-inforced with some square section tubing.

My plan was to get the engine running right and then make my own frame from scratch so likely this frame will be quite temporary.

 

[landuse]

I am having a laser cut flange made as we speak, this flange has water inlet and out let ports, (as well as the exhaust ports) I will then run a DC water pump and a radiator to cool the engine.

The frame is a typical Chinese frame that has been re-inforced with some square section tubing.

My plan was to get the engine running right and then make my own frame from scratch so likely this frame will be quite temporary.

Post some pics. We like pics

 

[rodney007]

Post some pics. We like pics

I was going to wait until I made a bit more progress. but here you go - you can see where my flange is being made.

I am halfway through welding up an engine brace type mount from 10mm stainless plate.

I also have some flanges being cut to rotate the carburetors 90* deg as the engine is now laying flat and the float bowls would be sideways.

Engine before:

Removed from casing:

View of mechanical advance:

Water in/out and exhaust:

Initial chassis (mainly for engine testing before I build my own)

 

[Denny]

Denny

 

[Toycrusher]

I've wanted to do something like this for ages but it's just not that simple. Why don't you use the gearcase for power transmission? It has forward and reverse and an internal clutch that can take being shifted at idle speed. Gear it low enough and you can bang it in and out of gear to start/stop.

Your only other option for that much power is a second flywheel, bellhousing, and clutch from a compact car like a Ford Fiesta or Geo metro. You know that would be a pain to do.

If you were going to go that far, then you would be better off simply stealing a complete motor, transmission, and subframe from one of those cars and mounting it behind your go kart. Then you have independent rear suspension and enough power to win some money at the local drag strip...

 

[ML-TOYS]

I am having a laser cut flange made as we speak, this flange has water inlet and out let ports, (as well as the exhaust ports) I will then run a DC water pump and a radiator to cool the engine.

The frame is a typical Chinese frame that has been re-inforced with some square section tubing.

My plan was to get the engine running right and then make my own frame from scratch so likely this frame will be quite temporary.

Sounds like your planning well.

 

[mckutzy]

I don't think that motor can run in the horizontal fashion?

 

[Toycrusher]

I don't think that motor can run in the horizontal fashion?

It's a 2-stroke. Only the carbs care which direction it faces

 

[Kelly Wood]

 

[anderkart]

Does anyone have any suggestions? I have contact several snow-mobile part supply stores in the United States as I was going to use a primary/secondary setup but they don't really know anything except part numbers.

Ideally I would simply have a clutch unit on the output shaft with a chain/belt to the rear axle (in the perfect world)

Is there such a thing?

Anyway, thanks in advance for any tips / advice.

-Rod

New Zealand

Most all of the snowmobile driver clutches are made to fit engines with a tapered output shaft.
The clutches listed at this site include shaft diameter & taper sizes they're made to fit:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/snowmobile/snowclutch/snowcomet.html

This link has some good info explaining shaft taper sizes:
http://www.propellerpages.com/?c=tech_info&f=tapers

Maybe you could have a machine shop weld a steel-sleeve on your engines output shaft, then machine it down to the tapered dimensions needed to install a snowmobile clutch:

I don't know of any centrifugal or disk type gokart clutches that are rated for use on 60hp, 2-cycle engines. Although the Noram Enforcer--> http://www.out2win.com/catalog/noram_enf.html gokart clutch is VERY heavy duty and rated for 4-cycle engines with up to 40hp, so It might hold up for you because 2-cycles typically have less low-end torque than 4-cycles with similar HP-ratings. This clutch model is made to fit on a 1" bore (non-tapered) output shaft with a 1/4" keyway. So you'd still need to mod your engines output shaft with a keyed steel sleeve like this pic to install it.

 

[jrbrtsn]

The Comet 103 series torque converters can handle up to 120 HP.

http://www.hoffcocomet.com/epiphanyweb/flexpage.aspx?ID=75

 

[rodney007]

I am going to with trying a Noram - enforcer with heavy duty springs (1inch bore).

I also did like the look of the Duster 94c but will require a jack-shaft and more mucking around - should the enforcer not work so well then I will go down this route.

I think it will be a good experiment so others doing similar HP conversions will know where the cut-off point should be. The supplier seems confident that the enforcer should do the job for what I am wanting but we will have to see.

I have an engineer that will turn a new axle with 1" key'd od to 18mm splined reduction for strength (rather than increase the size of the factory 18mm shaft).

Currently sorting payment now with the supplier but shouldn't take too long to get here.

 

[landuse]

I am going to with trying a Noram - enforcer with heavy duty springs (1inch bore).

I also did like the look of the Duster 94c but will require a jack-shaft and more mucking around - should the enforcer not work so well then I will go down this route.

I think it will be a good experiment so others doing similar HP conversions will know where the cut-off point should be. The supplier seems confident that the enforcer should do the job for what I am wanting but we will have to see.

I have an engineer that will turn a new axle with 1" key'd od to 18mm splined reduction for strength (rather than increase the size of the factory 18mm shaft).

Currently sorting payment now with the supplier but shouldn't take too long to get here.

I don't think any of those clutches are going to handle the power that engine puts out. A 2 stroke also has higher RPM's, so this will affect clutch engagement etc

 

[rodney007]

I don't think any of those clutches are going to handle the power that engine puts out. A 2 stroke also has higher RPM's, so this will affect clutch engagement etc

I agree though ... none of us really know - because there is no official rated HP of an enforcer unit but from what I have read - and been told by the supplier they can handle quite alot.

I ordered the high rpm springs on the unit - maybe that helps

I am willing to try it, then... we will know

 

[rushking19]

This project sounds amazing I hope it works out for you

 

[rodney007]

This project sounds amazing I hope it works out for you

Cheers, I hope it works out too - I didn't realize just how hard it was going to be until I ripped the engine from the outboard.

Made some mounts:

 

[Toycrusher]

Is that motor running premix?

And if I may make a suggestion, you should add some support to the bottom of the block where it originally mounted. The block is likely to Crack from the stress with the mount where it is currently