48v 1000 go kart upgrade to 1800w

Tony86

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Ok sorry so to measure it correctly I need to get ss495 and the arduino nano?
There's 2 types 1 with soldered and 1 without??
And i don't need to buy the ss41?
I thought me getting 20 would give me spare sensors for the motor as 2 and 3 are broken.... So I'm guessing we would need to do the same for motor 2 and 3 as its possible that the sensors could be different in them motors to?
 

Tony86

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What size soldering wire should I buy ?
What 2 way switch can I buy
What are them connectors called that they plug into on the controller?
And what size mm wire should I buy ? I've got the rest just skeptical on buying anything else as I do t no what is appropriate for what i need ? Thanks Sid
 

itsid

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Sorry, been a busy weekend and that storm hit us right in the back yard..

No, the ss495 will not be suitable for any motor sensor replacement,
and frankly the ss41 isn't either as far as I can tell.
(not for your motors at least)

And I am still quite certain you will not need to replace any sensor anyways!
So don't you dare to pop another motor open, you will only making things worse!
STOP MESSING, start fixing!

Again,
I'd rather concentrate on the controllers first,
and you swapping back and forth at random is really testing my patience I must say.

But fine.. buy some stuff:
the cheapest nano clone on ebay (usually you get 5 for 4 bucks or such) will do just fine if you really want, I like having spares because I tinker with them occasionally.. but if you see one for a pound shipped, that'd be fine.
for the SS495 (do not buy more than three of those)
you need a small ceramic capacitor (10µF) each

soldering wire isn't important
I prefere lead solder since it runs cooler
but lead free is almost impossible to find online
ANY in the 0.7mm²-1.5mm² range will do
if you want a single number to choose from: 1.2mm²

same for wire size.. any from 0.7 to 1.5mm² is fine

two way switch .. I'd say you should see what you like visually
if you get an automotive switch it'll hold up well..
you only need to deal with 5V and maybe 50mA,
nothing a considerably beefy switch would be needed for..
it's more a "what I like the look of" type of decision really... 5V, 12V even 220V switches will work, and their current rating isn't important at all ..
Only exception: don't get one with an internal LED,
since we cannot provide current over the switching leads for a light.

if you can wait one more day,
I'll compile you a shopping list with order numbers.

'sid
 

Tony86

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48v 1800w go kart

Oh really hope there's not to much damage... i have to say part of my roof come off my very old concervatory and since you said buck I'm guessing you in America some where... really cool ..., but can imagine what it may of bin like .... as the weather here can never be anything like over there, and sorry ill shup up bout the others motors,:thumbsup: and thankyou for your patience Sid I've never did electrical repairs like this ,I repair motorbikes , laptops, ps4 without touching motherboard , and stuff , the future I will be owning , electric motocross bike as most mx tracks all closing down in UK as we dont have the space and noise is a huge issue so the future for the UK is electric, and my daughter is getting a oset soon which I've noticed is very similar teck so I thankyou again for your knowledge and patience :backtotopic:and that would be great that shopping list thankyou so much sid
:thumbsup:
Regards
Tony
 

itsid

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take a peek in the upper right corner of my post to get a better idea where I am ;)
location location location as they say :D

I think you called that storm ciara (the irish did at least)
the skandinavians called her elsa, and we called her sabine...
hit us with 118km/h of wind... not a good day sailor not a good day :D

'sid

[EDIT]
yes, ciara
 

itsid

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Now I put a list together for the aforementioned parts...

it's a german online shop I'm afraid, but the simplest source that was willing to ship individula parts (not bulk) to the uk...
shipping is unfortunately not free..
but if you click on the links you get an idea of what you need to be looking for. (blue text in the box is clickable, scroll for individual prices)

The Arduinos are missing on the list, they're MUCH cheaper on ebay from china:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3PCS...ni-controller-CH340G-For-Arduino/153562113699

if you do not want to wait that long a german supplier for a pound more:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nano-ATmega-328-Board-CH340-USB-Chip-Arduino-Kompatibel/252742123829

Code:
#### only needed for finding out what HE sensors would be needed for your motors:
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/hall-sensor-linear-analogue-to-92-ss-495-a-p151339.html"]SS 495 A[/URL]		Hall sensor, linear, analogue, TO-92				1	1	1.65 £		1.65 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/tantalum-capacitor-rm-2-5-10-f-16-v-tantal-10-16-p20332.htm"]TANTAL 10/16[/URL]		Tantalum capacitor, Rm 2.5, 10 µF/16 V				1	1	0.23 £		0.23 £

#### the following is needed to make the test cable for the controller
#### [feel free to buy leaded solder locally.. internationally shipped only lead free is available]
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/carbon-film-resistor-10-kohm-0411-500-mw-5-k-o-rd12jn103t52-p237431.html"]K-O RD12JN103T52[/URL]	Carbon film resistor, 10 kOhm, 0411, 500 mW, 5%			1	1	0.069 £		0.07 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/carbon-film-resistor-1-8-kohm-0411-500-mw-5-k-o-rd12jn182t52-p237421.html"]K-O RD12JN182T52[/URL]	Carbon film resistor, 1,8 kOhm, 0411, 500 mW, 5%		1	1	0.069 £		0.07 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/10-m-jumper-control-litz-wire-st1-1-0-mm-red-h05vk-1-0-10rt-p69483.html"]H05VK 1,0-10RT[/URL]		10-m jumper/control litz wire, ST1 - 1.0 mm², red		1	1	1.82 £		1.82 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/10-m-jumper-control-litz-wire-st1-1-0-mm-black-h05vk-1-0-10sw-p69484.html"]H05VK 1,0-10SW[/URL]		10-m jumper/control litz wire, ST1 - 1.0 mm², black		1	1	2.04 £		2.04 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/10-pack-2-1-heat-shrink-tubing-3-2-mm-black-sdh-3-2-sw-p17406.html"]SDH 3,2 SW[/URL]		10-pack 2:1 heat-shrink tubing, 3.2 mm, black			1	1	0.22 £		0.23 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/soldering-wire-lead-free-12-5-g-reel-1-0-mm-sn95-8-lz-fp-bf-1-0-12-p96330.html"]LZ FP BF 1,0 12[/URL]		Soldering wire, lead-free, 12.5-g reel, 1.0 mm, Sn95.8		1	1	2.17 £		2.17 £

#### and the switches
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/key-operated-switch-1-a-125-v-1-normally-open-contact-ns-30-p13528.html"]NS 30[/URL]			Key-operated switch, 1 A-125 V, 1 normally open contact		1	1	4.55 £		4.55 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/lever-switch-to-10-a-1x-on-on-hs-636-h2-p105645.html"]HS 636 H2[/URL]		Lever switch to 10 A, 1x ON - ON				1	1	3.29 £		3.30 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/lever-switch-to-10-a-1x-on-off-on-hs-637-h2-p105646.html"]HS 637 H2[/URL]		Lever switch to 10 A, 1x ON - OFF - ON				1	1	3.34 £		3.34 £
[URL="https://www.reichelt.de/micro-switch-3aac-roller-lever-snap-acti-av-32543-at-p191401.html"]AV 32543 AT[/URL]		Micro switch 3AAC Roller lever Snap-acti			1	1	1.21 £		1.21 £

==============================
Total Order value	 	 	 	20.68 £
plus shipping fees:				8.95 £

I added a on-off-on switch since someone said the controller is actually three speed..
so an off position to achieve the third speed option,
on-on is for the forward reverse direction
and key for controller on/off

and the tiny microswitch for the brake pedal, check your pedal,
I'd bet you already have that installed on the brake.. just ignore it if you have one.

and of course: feel free to pick any different switch that you like, I just picked some that aren't too expensive but appear to be solid quality (I don't like plastic switches myself)

Or any other supplier that you feel more comfortable with, I constantly buy off reichelt but that doesn't mean you must be too ;)

Oh finally:
the connectors..
I still cannot identify the model, hence they're missing from the list
too many options out there and I just cannot be bothered to browse through all,
google wasn't able to provide em with a good hint .. so I left it 'empty'

'sid
 

Tony86

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That's right storm ciara but i herd today on radio storm Dennis is on his way to join the party haha :D

Oh cool I had a girlfriend in Germany and couple of years ago spent new years night in Berlin which was cool ,man they love a firework hahaha

Thankyou Sid I'm gonna go through them now and let you no how I get on,

And yes I have the break switch and 3 speed switch to and onistly them connectors I've looked everywhere for there a nightmare haha
 

Tony86

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Exelent gonna find them now one question on the ss495a I have 2 different ones you have picked an unsoldered one can you explain the difference and which one i should go for or is it not important? Thankyou tony
 

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itsid

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I usually buy Arduinos with unsoldered headers
that's how they come most of the time from china anyways..
no matter what the image shows just the flatter package ;)

If I need headers (say for a breadboard) I quickly solder them in,
and if it's a throwy (single purpose) I solder in whatever needs to be soldered in..
direct wire connections or individual headers even parts as needed and leave the rest blank.

for you it shouldn't make any difference.. any cheap one will do
we only need a reasonable crytal oscillator and one 10bit ADC
but nano clones are plenty and cheap and most of all easy to find.
So that's my suggestion here not to other you with what of the atmega 328p specs
we need and why a stm might be quicker but not better (just more expensive) for this particular task and all that.

SS495 is the HE Sensor that is always unsoldered in its TO package until we're done with it ;)

'sid
 

Tony86

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Can you check for me please everything is correct please I have got the flux and heat shrink and can can start fixing I can't wait for this to be fixed :)
 

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itsid

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resistors are wrong, (off by a factor of 1000) you need 1.8 KILO Ohms and 10 KILO Ohms
and that switch will last for a maybe month (plastic lever ... I hate them)
you're also missing the capacitor you need for the ss496a

you are rushing it again...
take your time reading

'sid
 

Tony86

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I cant find them resisters on eBay, and would this switch be ok?
 

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itsid

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much better switches, yes!

well ebay is not always a good place to shop I guess..
what can I say?

but 1.8k resistors are on ebay..
https://www.ebay.de/itm/1800-Ohm-1-...-Fixed-Resistor-5-RoHS-10-Pieces/264269465966
https://www.ebay.de/itm/50-Metallsc...and-1K8-Ohm-1-4-W-Resistor-0-25W/371315154297
https://www.ebay.de/itm/100-Metalls...and-1K8-Ohm-1-4-W-Resistor-0-25W/321739186118

so are 10k
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Widerstande...erte-von-1-Ohm-bis-10-K-Resistor/254468874085
https://www.ebay.de/itm/100PCS1-4W-...m-Carbon-Film-Resistor-100000R-5/173904407486
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Th...10K-ohm-5-1-4W-Pack-of-25-AF2784/283745760328

and that wasn't even hard to find them
(searching for "resistor" with either "1800" or "10k" and even ebay germany
while using the english term rewarded me with sufficient results.. [bulk as always but yeah])
IDK why you can't

'sid
 

Tony86

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Sorry yeah I found them all ,confusing when you haven't ever had to buy anything like that, learning the hard way:mad2::D got refunds on all :) to just double checking before i buy on all things I need thank you sid

Tony
 

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itsid

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you must be kidding me..
now the resistors are okay.. the switch seems to be fine,
but you picked the wrong sensor
which was fine and allegedly paid for one post earlier!

really Tony, WTH?
you don't need three, especially not one such and two other...
(I don't even care what the 496 is or does... tbh... )

'sid
 

itsid

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Yepp that's the capacitor ;)

I consider everything ordered
and start making you a drawing on how to solder everything together.
I'll also start slapping together some lines of code for the arduino..
so that it'll do as we need.

'sid
 
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