280cc off-road shifter

[Benjo]

yea those are arc welds, I'm just gonna run one piece of tube down the centre to mount the bash plate off. I cant make tight enough bends to replicate the old frame, so i won't be able to replace it.
here's a pic of what i plan to do. (wont be using wire mesh, that's just to show were the bash plate will go)

 

[Benjo]

i want to replace my steering with a rack and pinion, anybody know where to get one (don't wanna buy online), i want to get one cheap. My only idea ATM is to put a want to buy in the local newspaper, have you guys got any other ideas?

 

[Cam]

Pics of rack? maybe a honda civic/accord would fit?

 

[theo]

You can shorten a rack, try this site.

http://www.sadik.net/gokart/plans/steering.htm

 

[Benjo]

thanks Theo that is what i am going to do, i just have to get a rack and pinion.

 

[Benjo]

OK since i am going to change my steering i am going to have more foot room, so i am gonna get rid of my hand controls and make a couple of pedals, this way my brakes should work (wasn't able to apply enough pressure on brakes with hand controls, should be able to with pedals).

so this is what i still have to do
-floor pan
-engine bash plate + bracket to hold it
-cut bottom engine mounts off
-get rack and pinion and mod it (thanks theo)
-make new tie-rods etc.
-3/5 point harness
-pedals (brakes + accelerator)
-get wider front tyres (got under-steer due to live axle/BIG rear tyres)
-add side roll bars

 

[theo]

Only problem with wide front tires, at times they are worse if you are on loose gravel. Mine under steered like a dump truck, and the only way I could cure it is by adding weight to the front. It only did this at low speed when I wanted to do a 180 turn. But it's 90 percent better with a 10lb weight on the front.

 

[Benjo]

i weigh quite a bit so hopefully it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Cam]

Slip diff in the rear? the carts looking mean

 

[Benjo]

Slip diff in the rear? the carts looking mean

there's no diff and i can't fit one in.

 

[Cam]

No diff stands for differential it can come in many forms, most quads have Locked but some don't.

LSD, Limited slip diff,
LD Locked diff,
SD, Slip diff,

Jack up the motor/wheel setup and spin one of the wheels/wheel hubs,

if the other one you are not turning turns in the same direction then you have a Locked diff,

if you turn one of the hubs and the other one turns the opposite way you have a Limited slip diff,

if you turn one of the hubs and the other one dosent move at all, you have a slip diff.

This effects the steering, a limited slip is the best, a slip works well to,

A limited slip is the best because it allows the inside wheel to move freely on a corner, it allows limited slippage, but when you are on a straight piece of land both wheels are given power allowing for better traction.

A slip diff is based on the gyroscopic position of the vehicle, if its leaning to the right the right wheel will only turn if its leaning to the left it will only turn the left wheel, no two wheels are turning at the same time, you loose traction but it goes round corners very well.

A locked diff means that both wheels are turning all the time, when you go round a corner the inside wheel wants to skid and makes the kart harder to steer, IE: sledging/understeer.

In most quads these days you can switch it between all three, a multi selectable differential.

Are we on the same page now? lol..

 

[Benjo]

yea i have a locked diff, just like a live axle.

thats one hell of a post.

 

[Cam]

Why thankyou, i hope it helps others as well.

 

[Benjo]

just got some more steel(tube and sheet) started to weld the side bars of my cage and attach floor pan. I have already gone through 5 drill bits drilling holes for rivets, its so ****ing annoying, I've got the drill going on a low speed small amount of pressure but as soon as it gets through one side of the tube it smashes into the other and snaps.

 

[Benjo]

i'll get pics up tomorrow, its dark ATM.

 

[Cam]

5 drill bits??!!!!

When you feel its about to go through slow down.

Drilling through steel with no fluid assist im guessing? stick a few drops of used motor oil on your drill hole every few moments.

If the speed is too fast, do it in bursts.

I use an old 2 speed black n decker with worn brushes and a wobbley chuck, its all in technique bro.

Pics would be wicked, anxious to see it.

 

[Benjo]

i got my drill in 1st gear going super slow, i think its because I'm using some crap brand drill bits, when i finish the floor pan 2morrow ill use some oil on my drill, hopefully it helps.

 

[Benjo]

just put 44 more rivets in, used a different brand of drill bit and i didnt brake, i guess the bits that i was using before were just ****.

 

[Cam]

What brand? i use frost and get broken evacuts from an engineering shop.

 

[Benjo]

i was using medalist (they're ****) and now I'm using Evacut (i would recommend).