karte_m0lim
Birds Aren't Real
looking great ... 
2019 - Yard Kart Therapy
- Thread starter gegcorp2012
- Start date
looking great ...
I agree. It is looking good!
karte_m0lim
Birds Aren't Real
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Looking good!
gegcorp2012
Active member
Thanks for the encouragement !
I tried sitting the engine on the new swingarm today...
Will need to get the rear carrier finished and sit the kart on the ground before I can make the new engine plate.
I got most of the greasy, messy stuff done on the carrier tonight... new bearings are in, I cleaned everything and scratched up the rotor the get the rust and some marks off where the PO ran the brake pad too thin.
I m showing the 110cc axle assembled and the 350cc carrier and axle all exploded.
Now the 350 unit is all back together with a coat of paint.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
I tried sitting the engine on the new swingarm today...
Will need to get the rear carrier finished and sit the kart on the ground before I can make the new engine plate.
I got most of the greasy, messy stuff done on the carrier tonight... new bearings are in, I cleaned everything and scratched up the rotor the get the rust and some marks off where the PO ran the brake pad too thin.
I m showing the 110cc axle assembled and the 350cc carrier and axle all exploded.
Now the 350 unit is all back together with a coat of paint.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Details, details, details.... I am slowly getting through the front suspension and cleaning up and re-painting the stock parts for looks and rust protection.
Be thankful if you build with all new parts because this is time consuming stuff .
Using silver as a highlight color...
Control arms and shocks being finished. I used the orbital sander, a wire brush and sand paper to prep and cleaned everything with some rubbing alcohol, then a couple of coats of satin black from the can.
Many parts have a cadmium plating and I kind of like that look, but it is hard to get out of a spray can. Checked online for the Eastwood brand, but decided to just go with the $4 a can silver metallic instead.
The tiny little brake pads on the front calipers look like new, so I will hit the rotor with the drill and skuffer disk and get the spider webs out then be good to paint the front rims.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Be thankful if you build with all new parts because this is time consuming stuff .
Using silver as a highlight color...
Control arms and shocks being finished. I used the orbital sander, a wire brush and sand paper to prep and cleaned everything with some rubbing alcohol, then a couple of coats of satin black from the can.
Many parts have a cadmium plating and I kind of like that look, but it is hard to get out of a spray can. Checked online for the Eastwood brand, but decided to just go with the $4 a can silver metallic instead.
The tiny little brake pads on the front calipers look like new, so I will hit the rotor with the drill and skuffer disk and get the spider webs out then be good to paint the front rims.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Football Friday night ! I have been listening to the local football scene on the radio each Friday night while I spend a couple of hours doing tedious stuff on the kart.
For the front wheels, I decided to wire brush them and wipe them down and tape them off, then I used a couple of shopping bags to protect the larger areas and get them ready for paint.
Then I sprayed them... no pics until they are back on the kart.
Next, I took a close look at the Peace Sports 110 front calipers while cleaning the kingpin and rotors and noticed the caliper screws are too long, and were scraping up the rotor noticibly on one side. The other side was not as bad, but I trimmed all the bolts.
I used a washer and nut to mark how far to trim the threads back, then zipped them off with the cutoff wheel. The nut will restore the threads as it is being removed, so this saves time in case you never tried it before.
While the calipers were off, I inspected the pads and was surprised to find that one side was missing the friction pad, but the steel backing plate was there.
(The one on the left has no friction material)
I will have to order a set of pads to fix just one... If that friction material just comes unglued, I probably need a whole 'nother set for spares.... lol (?)
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
For the front wheels, I decided to wire brush them and wipe them down and tape them off, then I used a couple of shopping bags to protect the larger areas and get them ready for paint.
Then I sprayed them... no pics until they are back on the kart.
Next, I took a close look at the Peace Sports 110 front calipers while cleaning the kingpin and rotors and noticed the caliper screws are too long, and were scraping up the rotor noticibly on one side. The other side was not as bad, but I trimmed all the bolts.
While the calipers were off, I inspected the pads and was surprised to find that one side was missing the friction pad, but the steel backing plate was there.
(The one on the left has no friction material)
I will have to order a set of pads to fix just one... If that friction material just comes unglued, I probably need a whole 'nother set for spares.... lol (?)
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Had a rainy Saturday here, so I took advantage and got through the re-assembly with the new 350 Monocross rear.
Had some help from my son to get it back on the ground and do a loaded suspension test.
This was really helpful to get the spacing needed for the new engine mounts.
With my son loading the suspension, i was able to put spacer material under the engine until I got it perfectly level.
Also checked for sprocket alignment and clearance for a bigger motor.
Plenty of room back there!
Need 3-1/2" In the back and 2-1/2" in the front. The chain adjustment will be similar to the one I made for the 110 rear, except the motor plate will be big enough to hold the 212 or a 420.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Had some help from my son to get it back on the ground and do a loaded suspension test.
This was really helpful to get the spacing needed for the new engine mounts.
With my son loading the suspension, i was able to put spacer material under the engine until I got it perfectly level.
Also checked for sprocket alignment and clearance for a bigger motor.
Plenty of room back there!
Need 3-1/2" In the back and 2-1/2" in the front. The chain adjustment will be similar to the one I made for the 110 rear, except the motor plate will be big enough to hold the 212 or a 420.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Ok, so my brake pad order showed up today, so I started to finish the front end...
While I was waiting on the brake pad, I noticed the front wheels were leaning in at the top. I measured the camber was -7 degrees and there is no adjustment in the ATV control arms.... so I had to add some tabs and move the body side holes for the upper control arm to correct both sides. Now the camber is at <1degree.
I looked at the possibility if making a caster adjustment and it is more like I will have to do more cutting and welding if I want to add some camber. I will just have to drive it and see how it handles.
The steering rods and new brake lines appear to work from lock to lock.
While in the area, I made a push rod for the brakes, and got the brake pedal connected.
Towards the back, I decided to make a drift brake/parking brake from the 350cc Warrior foot brake.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
While I was waiting on the brake pad, I noticed the front wheels were leaning in at the top. I measured the camber was -7 degrees and there is no adjustment in the ATV control arms.... so I had to add some tabs and move the body side holes for the upper control arm to correct both sides. Now the camber is at <1degree.
I looked at the possibility if making a caster adjustment and it is more like I will have to do more cutting and welding if I want to add some camber. I will just have to drive it and see how it handles.
The steering rods and new brake lines appear to work from lock to lock.
While in the area, I made a push rod for the brakes, and got the brake pedal connected.
Towards the back, I decided to make a drift brake/parking brake from the 350cc Warrior foot brake.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Stopping point last night.... I cut my motor mount 7"×10" out of 1/4" plate, and figured out a mounting scheme to attach it to the swingarm. While working on the holes for the rear of the motor plate, I ended up stymied by dull drill bits.
Then went to put the new pads on the (Yamaha) rear caliper and twisted an allen wrench trying to get the bolts out that hold the pads in.... guess they are frozen solid due to different metals and no thread treatment by PO.
Ordered a new caliper and planned a shopping trip to get drill bits and some pipe for the front hinge on the motor plate.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Then went to put the new pads on the (Yamaha) rear caliper and twisted an allen wrench trying to get the bolts out that hold the pads in.... guess they are frozen solid due to different metals and no thread treatment by PO.
Ordered a new caliper and planned a shopping trip to get drill bits and some pipe for the front hinge on the motor plate.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
I welded up some pipe with a 7/16 nut in the end to use on the rear of the motor plate. These will be notched on the bottom to fit on the swingarm.
Drilled the plate for the adjuster bolts, and made the notches on the mounting posts.
Added some 1/2" ID pipe to some short pieces of 1-1/4 square tubing to no make the front hinge mount for the motor plate. These will sit on the swingarm and the center piece of pipe will be welded to the bottom of the motor plate.
I am having welder issues again and after looking inside, I am convinced the $125 cheapie from HF would be better than the 30 yr old obsolete and patched welder I am trying to use... now the solenoid is getting flaky and I have to hold the sheath a certain way with one hand, making it near impossible to hold parts and flip my hood, etc. Pretty aggravating to put the time into utting and fitting parts then have welder issues on the 5 yard line.... break time.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Drilled the plate for the adjuster bolts, and made the notches on the mounting posts.
Added some 1/2" ID pipe to some short pieces of 1-1/4 square tubing to no make the front hinge mount for the motor plate. These will sit on the swingarm and the center piece of pipe will be welded to the bottom of the motor plate.
I am having welder issues again and after looking inside, I am convinced the $125 cheapie from HF would be better than the 30 yr old obsolete and patched welder I am trying to use... now the solenoid is getting flaky and I have to hold the sheath a certain way with one hand, making it near impossible to hold parts and flip my hood, etc. Pretty aggravating to put the time into utting and fitting parts then have welder issues on the 5 yard line.... break time.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
You have some awesome progress!! Nice.
Smerft85
Member
This is a cool build, gives me a few ideas for a later date too! That front end looks very nice!
gegcorp2012
Active member
Thanks for the comments.
I have a new MIG gun on order to see if that cures some of the wire feed issues. I will be happy to try to use gas again since I picked up a roll of 030 solid core a couple weeks ago and the new gun has a gas valve and the hose and all...
If the parts come in and there are no further surprises, I may be able to get the cart into the yard sometime next week.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
I have a new MIG gun on order to see if that cures some of the wire feed issues. I will be happy to try to use gas again since I picked up a roll of 030 solid core a couple weeks ago and the new gun has a gas valve and the hose and all...
If the parts come in and there are no further surprises, I may be able to get the cart into the yard sometime next week.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
I wouldn't get the Harbor Freight welders. They always have terrible reviews.
For $160, you can get an Ironton 125 flux core welder from Northern Tool, and they have good reviews, even on 3rd party websites.
For $160, you can get an Ironton 125 flux core welder from Northern Tool, and they have good reviews, even on 3rd party websites.
gegcorp2012
Active member
Hi JT,
So I decided my old rig may work better with a new flex cable and gun handle, so I will see if it is worth the $37 investment this weekend. I'm hoping it don't need other parts because it is out of production.
I am trying to rebuild my old Daytona MIG (Cebora Combi 130) as it breaks, but the continual wire feed issues makes me want to dump it and buy something newer and better... it does have the ability to use a shielding gas for less splatter and smoke and other cleanup that is needed after flux core welding, so it *could* be better than the Ironton if it will just feed wire properly.
I would advise against any wire welder with plastic parts around the wire feed rollers and motor, no matter the price.
I researched multi-process welders over the weekend and have a few recommendations for higher end machines ($1000 range) but have to get through this project and a garage build before doing an expensive welder refresh.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
So I decided my old rig may work better with a new flex cable and gun handle, so I will see if it is worth the $37 investment this weekend. I'm hoping it don't need other parts because it is out of production.
I am trying to rebuild my old Daytona MIG (Cebora Combi 130) as it breaks, but the continual wire feed issues makes me want to dump it and buy something newer and better... it does have the ability to use a shielding gas for less splatter and smoke and other cleanup that is needed after flux core welding, so it *could* be better than the Ironton if it will just feed wire properly.
I would advise against any wire welder with plastic parts around the wire feed rollers and motor, no matter the price.
I researched multi-process welders over the weekend and have a few recommendations for higher end machines ($1000 range) but have to get through this project and a garage build before doing an expensive welder refresh.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
New welder gun is installed and working !
I had to solder the 2 switch wires and the high amperage main cable, but no major problems with the swap... so here's a few shots showing how it works now.
The wire is feeding smooth and that helps to bring the heat needed to lay down some decent welds.
It has been a long time since I have been able to make a weld longer than a couple of inches, too bad this one is on the under side !
It worked great and I never noticed any wire feed issues even at the end of the spool...
I will switch to the solid core wire and gas tomorrow, but need a fitting for the gas hose. Then I can finish welding in the adjusters and the lift washers to make the plate adjustable.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
I had to solder the 2 switch wires and the high amperage main cable, but no major problems with the swap... so here's a few shots showing how it works now.
The wire is feeding smooth and that helps to bring the heat needed to lay down some decent welds.
It has been a long time since I have been able to make a weld longer than a couple of inches, too bad this one is on the under side !
It worked great and I never noticed any wire feed issues even at the end of the spool...
I will switch to the solid core wire and gas tomorrow, but need a fitting for the gas hose. Then I can finish welding in the adjusters and the lift washers to make the plate adjustable.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Got the gas hooked up and finished welding the motor plate. Next, I drilled the holes for the motor and bolted it on to size up the chain. It will need to have a couple more links, but I have extra.
The brake lines are on, but I would like to see if i can run them on the inside of the swingarm.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
The brake lines are on, but I would like to see if i can run them on the inside of the swingarm.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Final thrash then the shakedown...
Chain...
Had to clean out the trashy float bowl and put in new main and low speed jets...
Driveway topping of fluids...
---------- Post added at 06:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------
[/COLOR]we got it running in the driveway and bolts and nuts started shaking loose here and there...
Tightened 'em all up and it definitely moves under its own power !
My second lap.... speed limited to 10mph by throttle stop screw
https://youtu.be/O8XsgRqhRj4
My son and I established a uphill/downhill oval in the side yard and started laying down some speed trials.
My son has the best speed so far.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Chain...
Had to clean out the trashy float bowl and put in new main and low speed jets...
Driveway topping of fluids...
---------- Post added at 06:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------
[/COLOR]we got it running in the driveway and bolts and nuts started shaking loose here and there...
Tightened 'em all up and it definitely moves under its own power !
My second lap.... speed limited to 10mph by throttle stop screw
https://youtu.be/O8XsgRqhRj4
My son and I established a uphill/downhill oval in the side yard and started laying down some speed trials.
My son has the best speed so far.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
gegcorp2012
Active member
Here are the stills after we ran it out of gas.... I was saying we just need a little gas because I want to make sure it runs....we will be doing good if it runs, then I said even better if it runs out of gas.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk