2017 - El Moto
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Picked up a switch, from Grangers that we can use to select forward or reverse for the El Dingo II kart
Wow! there are hundreds of different kinds of switches
Their are regular old on/off switches, two pole switches, 3 pole switches, momentary switches & many more
...then you get into amp ratings
Well, for our forward/reverse switch we need a switch that
...is considered an on/on switch
...it has 3 terminals (1) power in
...& (2) separate power outs (to send power out thru one circuit or the other)
I could of went with an on/off/on switch
...where the center position would be like a neutral position
...but, I thought that might just confuse things
So, I went with the on/on switch
I think, I have this figured out but, to be sure
...lets do a test
I hooked the center terminal, of the switch, to the positive (+) terminal of a 12V battery
...I hooked the power wire of a 12V bulb to the left terminal of the switch
...& the power wire of a second 12V bulb to the right terminal
...& the negative (-) of both bulbs to the negative (-) of the battery
That went well, lets get it mounted
...figured where to put it
...measured what dimensions were needed
...cut a piece of plastic out of an old TV back cover
...centered the switch
...drilled a couple of holes
...whittled a bit with a razor knife
...mounted it on the kart with a couple of screws
Yup!, that should do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocR27UuxLu4
Wow! there are hundreds of different kinds of switches
Their are regular old on/off switches, two pole switches, 3 pole switches, momentary switches & many more
...then you get into amp ratings
Well, for our forward/reverse switch we need a switch that
...is considered an on/on switch
...it has 3 terminals (1) power in
...& (2) separate power outs (to send power out thru one circuit or the other)
I could of went with an on/off/on switch
...where the center position would be like a neutral position
...but, I thought that might just confuse things
So, I went with the on/on switch
I think, I have this figured out but, to be sure
...lets do a test
I hooked the center terminal, of the switch, to the positive (+) terminal of a 12V battery
...I hooked the power wire of a 12V bulb to the left terminal of the switch
...& the power wire of a second 12V bulb to the right terminal
...& the negative (-) of both bulbs to the negative (-) of the battery
That went well, lets get it mounted
...figured where to put it
...measured what dimensions were needed
...cut a piece of plastic out of an old TV back cover
...centered the switch
...drilled a couple of holes
...whittled a bit with a razor knife
...mounted it on the kart with a couple of screws
Yup!, that should do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocR27UuxLu4
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Bbqjoe
Banned
FA, your work is most impressive.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
All I really have left to do on the Dingo is clean up & paint
So,
Let's get this electric bike conversion project going.
Motorcycle specs:
1980 Kawasaki 440 LTD
category: custom cruiser
Engine: 444 ccm. (27.09 cu. in.) 27 HP (19.7 kW) @ 7.000 rpm
top speed: 95.7 mph
Front tire: 3.25-19 Front brakes: single disc
Rear tire: 130/90-16 Rear brakes (expanding brake)
Weight (inc. gas & oil) 405.7 lbs
Started off by
...taking the bike to get it weighed
Beginning weight
...without carbs, gas or battery
...was 380 lbs.
so, it looks like we lost ~25 lbs. already
Next, was draining the oil from the engine
...while it was draining, I
...removed the left engine side cover to expose the main drive gear
...took measurements from a few different angles
...to establish exactly where that main gear was located
It's very important to mount the electric motor, so that it's main gear is in relatively the same location
If it's mounted too high or too low
...there will be problems with the chain "slacking" (becoming loose or too tight) as the rear wheel travels up & down
So,
Let's get this electric bike conversion project going.
Motorcycle specs:
1980 Kawasaki 440 LTD
category: custom cruiser
Engine: 444 ccm. (27.09 cu. in.) 27 HP (19.7 kW) @ 7.000 rpm
top speed: 95.7 mph
Front tire: 3.25-19 Front brakes: single disc
Rear tire: 130/90-16 Rear brakes (expanding brake)
Weight (inc. gas & oil) 405.7 lbs
Started off by
...taking the bike to get it weighed
Beginning weight
...without carbs, gas or battery
...was 380 lbs.
so, it looks like we lost ~25 lbs. already
Next, was draining the oil from the engine
...while it was draining, I
...removed the left engine side cover to expose the main drive gear
...took measurements from a few different angles
...to establish exactly where that main gear was located
It's very important to mount the electric motor, so that it's main gear is in relatively the same location
If it's mounted too high or too low
...there will be problems with the chain "slacking" (becoming loose or too tight) as the rear wheel travels up & down
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
Removed the seat, tank & the side covers & put them away so, they don't get damaged
Now, this engine has gotta go
...found the master link, sprayed (looked like it had been on there a while) & removed the chain
...took pics & measurements of where the exhaust pipes were mounted
I may remount the exhaust pipes to help maintain the look of the original bike (I need to know where they were without the engine there)
...this engine is mounted on the top-n-bottom & the front-n-back
...& weighs a ton (actually ~ 125 lbs.)
Engine is off
Now, off to power wash it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1IUs5TG9HU
Now, this engine has gotta go
...found the master link, sprayed (looked like it had been on there a while) & removed the chain
...took pics & measurements of where the exhaust pipes were mounted
I may remount the exhaust pipes to help maintain the look of the original bike (I need to know where they were without the engine there)
...this engine is mounted on the top-n-bottom & the front-n-back
...& weighs a ton (actually ~ 125 lbs.)
Engine is off
Now, off to power wash it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1IUs5TG9HU
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
Now, I gotta figure where to put the motor
Should be easy enough
...lower rear of engine compartment
..,.keep main shaft/sprocket roughly where the previous one was
So, placed motor in the lower rear
...& did some measurin'
Then I tried it
...forward a little
...back a little
...on an angle
...even sideways
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Escb_E891e8
Should be easy enough
...lower rear of engine compartment
..,.keep main shaft/sprocket roughly where the previous one was
So, placed motor in the lower rear
...& did some measurin'
Then I tried it
...forward a little
...back a little
...on an angle
...even sideways
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Escb_E891e8
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
While trying different motor placement ideas,
I noticed a pocket between the side covers that I might be able to fit the motor up into
I would have to add a jackshaft or idler pully to make it work
Hmmmmm
Placing it there would leave alot more room for batteries & other stuff
...the chain would be shorter (less weight)
...looks kinda kool
IDK
...anyone have any input?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfhil1jfqE
I noticed a pocket between the side covers that I might be able to fit the motor up into
I would have to add a jackshaft or idler pully to make it work
Hmmmmm
Placing it there would leave alot more room for batteries & other stuff
...the chain would be shorter (less weight)
...looks kinda kool
IDK
...anyone have any input?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfhil1jfqE
Goat
Retired for the grandkids
A neat project. What is the top speed of the kart?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
A neat project. What is the top speed of the kart?
The kart (El Dingo II) tops out ~ 20 mph
but, it gets there quickly
The big (16 x 6.50 x 8 wheels) don't seem to be a good combination with an electric motor
I'm gonna try this motor (actually several different motors) on a lighter kart with smaller wheels
(something like 4.10 x 3.50 x 6)
Stay tuned, much more to come
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I think I'm gonna try stuffing the motor into the little pocket
I'll have to use a jack shaft, to help route the chain but, if it works out, it leaves so much more room for other stuff (speed controller, batteries, solenoid & cables)
If not, I'll go to plan B
Before I can go much further,
I gotta make a few decisions
Chain:
...the sprockets I have for the motor are for # 40 chain (1/2" pin to pin)
...the sprocket on the rear wheel of the bike is #50 chain (5/8' pin to pin)
So, do I go with #40 chain & gears or # 50 chain & gears?
Well,
...(A) I already have a 10 tooth (I can use on the motor) & a 15 tooth sprocket (I can use on the jack shaft), a 54 tooth rear sprocket, plus ~6' of # 40 chain
...or (B) if I go with the Heavy Duty #50 chain, all I have is a 45 tooth rear sprocket
...I would have to order (2) gears, (1) for the motor & (1) for the jack shaft & 10' box of #50 chain
For now, lets go with plan A
...I already have most everything
...a bit smaller chain will reduce overall weight
...a bit smaller chain should also reduce power required from the motor(to move it)
...& a bit smaller chain will be easier to route (between frame rails)
OK, so if we go with plan A
...next, I gotta remove the rear wheel & change the sprocket
I'll have to use a jack shaft, to help route the chain but, if it works out, it leaves so much more room for other stuff (speed controller, batteries, solenoid & cables)
If not, I'll go to plan B
Before I can go much further,
I gotta make a few decisions
Chain:
...the sprockets I have for the motor are for # 40 chain (1/2" pin to pin)
...the sprocket on the rear wheel of the bike is #50 chain (5/8' pin to pin)
So, do I go with #40 chain & gears or # 50 chain & gears?
Well,
...(A) I already have a 10 tooth (I can use on the motor) & a 15 tooth sprocket (I can use on the jack shaft), a 54 tooth rear sprocket, plus ~6' of # 40 chain
...or (B) if I go with the Heavy Duty #50 chain, all I have is a 45 tooth rear sprocket
...I would have to order (2) gears, (1) for the motor & (1) for the jack shaft & 10' box of #50 chain
For now, lets go with plan A
...I already have most everything
...a bit smaller chain will reduce overall weight
...a bit smaller chain should also reduce power required from the motor(to move it)
...& a bit smaller chain will be easier to route (between frame rails)
OK, so if we go with plan A
...next, I gotta remove the rear wheel & change the sprocket
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
Before removing the rear wheel I
...took pics of both sides (so I know how it looked before I removed it)
...unhooked the brake arm & stabilizer arm from the frame
...removed the big thru bolt holding the wheel on
...& slowly lowered the wheel, setting the spacers & adjusters aside in the order that they were removed
...removed the sprocket hub from the wheel
...& then unbolted the sprocket from the hub
Now, I gotta line the old #50 sprocket up with the new #40 sprocket
...so I can mark where the bolt holes are & where the center hub is on the new one
This has to be real accurate or the sprocket won't be centered (I probably do not have to explain why that would be bad)
So, I lined them up & centered then as best I could & clamped them together with vise grips
But, it just didn't look right, I could see a little more of the previous holes on one side than I could see on the other
Hmmmmm
...took pics of both sides (so I know how it looked before I removed it)
...unhooked the brake arm & stabilizer arm from the frame
...removed the big thru bolt holding the wheel on
...& slowly lowered the wheel, setting the spacers & adjusters aside in the order that they were removed
...removed the sprocket hub from the wheel
...& then unbolted the sprocket from the hub
Now, I gotta line the old #50 sprocket up with the new #40 sprocket
...so I can mark where the bolt holes are & where the center hub is on the new one
This has to be real accurate or the sprocket won't be centered (I probably do not have to explain why that would be bad)
So, I lined them up & centered then as best I could & clamped them together with vise grips
But, it just didn't look right, I could see a little more of the previous holes on one side than I could see on the other
Hmmmmm
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
I think I got it
...the center of the new sprocket is 2 1/8"
...the center of the old sprocket is 2 3/4"
so, I made a pilot hole in the middle of a ~12" x 12" piece of plastic
...drew a 2 1/8" circle on the piece of plastic
...lined up the new sprocket with the circle
...then drew a 2 3/4" circle right on the new sprocket
...& then, lined up the old sprocket with that circle
...clamped them together with vise grips
& BOOM
...that should be, pretty well centered, DIY style
...the center of the new sprocket is 2 1/8"
...the center of the old sprocket is 2 3/4"
so, I made a pilot hole in the middle of a ~12" x 12" piece of plastic
...drew a 2 1/8" circle on the piece of plastic
...lined up the new sprocket with the circle
...then drew a 2 3/4" circle right on the new sprocket
...& then, lined up the old sprocket with that circle
...clamped them together with vise grips
& BOOM
...that should be, pretty well centered, DIY style
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
Well, now I can start drillin'
Using the old sprocket as a template,
I used a 3/8" drill bit, in the drill, to quickly mark the center of each hole
...used a spring loaded punch to then center punch each spot
...& then drilled 1/8" pilot holes
...then moved up to 1/4" holes
...then 5/16" holes
...& finally to 3/8" holes
OK, mounting holes are done
...lets move on to removing the center piece
Still using the old sprocket as a template
I drilled ~(50) 1/8" holes all around, just inside the old sprockets center hole
...kept drillin' until I had a large enough area to slide a hack saw blade in
...then, using the hack saw, I kinda connected the dots
Now, I gotta smooth 'er out a bit
I used a grinding stone mounted into a router
...that's mounted to a board
...that's then clamped to the work bench
It took a while but, I got 'er
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3riPW7U4QQk
Using the old sprocket as a template,
I used a 3/8" drill bit, in the drill, to quickly mark the center of each hole
...used a spring loaded punch to then center punch each spot
...& then drilled 1/8" pilot holes
...then moved up to 1/4" holes
...then 5/16" holes
...& finally to 3/8" holes
OK, mounting holes are done
...lets move on to removing the center piece
Still using the old sprocket as a template
I drilled ~(50) 1/8" holes all around, just inside the old sprockets center hole
...kept drillin' until I had a large enough area to slide a hack saw blade in
...then, using the hack saw, I kinda connected the dots
Now, I gotta smooth 'er out a bit
I used a grinding stone mounted into a router
...that's mounted to a board
...that's then clamped to the work bench
It took a while but, I got 'er
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3riPW7U4QQk
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Last edited:
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
have any question, we hope you can take a picture about the wires,then this will be better help us confirm it,ok?
have a nice day
maybe some wires don't contact correct,so pls offer us some picture to help us confirm it,ok?
Have a nice day
I dying over here.
All they needed to say was.....
---------- Post added at 01:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 AM ----------
...this engine is mounted on the top-n-bottom & the front-n-back
...& weighs a ton (actually ~ 125 lbs.)
That's some kind of crazy. I think you said it makes 27HP? Some people have made over 30HP on a 212cc which weighs like 38lbs.
Anyway cool stuff. Carry on.
Bbqjoe
Banned
Do people in Toodaloo have real jobs?
Or do you just stay up all night?
Maybe I don't want to know.
Or do you just stay up all night?
Maybe I don't want to know.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Do people in Toodaloo have real jobs?
Or do you just stay up all night?
Maybe I don't want to know.
I think a couple of people do.
* Jeep assembly facility (only place in USA that builds Wranglers)
GM Hydromatic transmission facility
Dana corp. (bearings/axles)
* I drive a tow truck
...I'm (almost) always on call
...I need to be available when people need me
...when no one needs me, I still, need to be available
...it gives me a lot of free time in between
* Toledo tidbit:
...from what I've been told,
...we also have more churches per capita than anywhere else in the world
...hence: "Holy Toledo"
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Plus, Klinger
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Do people in Toodaloo have real jobs?
Or do you just stay up all night?
Maybe I don't want to know.
Hopefully Todelo is better than Cleveland?
These videos make it seem like nobody works in Cleveland.
And they crack me up.
At least Cleveland is not Detroit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysmLA5TqbIY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZzgAjjuqZM
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Back to the bike
The #40 sprocket is now modified to fit the motorcycle rear wheel hub
The sprocket got scuffed a bit
...so I cleaned it & the hub up a bit
...then, shot them both with some high temp black paint
Reassembled
...the sprocket onto the hub
...the hub onto the rear wheel
...then, the wheel onto the motorcycle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boTUgLzOe00&t=2s
Now, we can move on to
...the jackshaft
...it's placement
...& chain routing
Bbqjoe
Banned
Looks like you're gonna have a whole mess of room for bat trees.*
*An old friend used to say it that way!
*An old friend used to say it that way!