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Yeah... it can be hard to find certain parts. That isn't one that normally receives that much wear. Maybe you can email someone at electricscooterparts.com; they carry a lot of replacement parts and perhaps it could be special ordered. You could also get a #25 plate sprocket and machine as...

Personally, I'd switch to #25 motor sprocket, replace the destroyed jackshaft sprocket with #25 again, and replace the chain because it is probably damaged and it is very cheap. Check to see if your bearings are shot too; my original ones tore up with much less abuse than that.

T8F and #25 aren't the same. I guess the softest material between the motor sprocket, jackshaft sprocket, and chain was the jackshaft sprocket. You'll need to switch to a #25 motor sprocket or a T8F jackshaft sprocket.

Is the motor sprocket #25 or T8F?

Those teeth look destroyed. Are you running all #25 sprockets and chain?

The ME1904 (ME1114) supposedly has a 67.8Nm Stall (up from the ME1719's 39Nm), but I have seen a dyno of an ME1304 (liquid cooled version) running with only 500A with a 78Nm max torque. I have a KLS72701-8080NPS that can output 700A and am expecting to almost double my max acceleration. The...

The new ME1904 is here... the overkill continues.

I suppose you're right; LiPos have a terrible life cycle in general. I consider an estimated 300 charges before significant degradation to be pretty terrible. It isn't so bad when dealing with just a single pack, but it is a bit more expensive for karts and the propensity for lots of fire is...

Yes, there are BMSes that work with lithium. You can set a low voltage cut-off in programmable controllers normally and BMSes can have a cut-off as well. You can just top-balance your packs when you charge them and use the controller to prevent over-current and over-discharge. That's what I do...

You can use the LiPos. Just be sure they are easily removable and that you remove them from the kart for charging in a safe place. Also ensure you balance charge them and avoid over-discharging and drawing too much current. A BMS and/or controller settings will help with this.

Those wheels will fail. Here's what I did in the end.

Aren't those 22.2v packs? That will get you 88.8v max rather than 96v. You could do a 4s1p with 6s 20Ah Turnigy packs too if you want to make it less complex. Then again, you won't be maxing out the motor... Obviously you should do at least 4s2p(6s 20Ah packs) for 40Ah and double the maximum...

Make sure you aren't pinching the tubes in the split rim. Where are you seeing the holes?

I didn't keep the stock ones on long enough to need replacement. Are both your front and rear tires needing replacement at the same time?

Electric is better except for cost. Even range is overcome by spending more with good battery quality, sizing, swapping and/or charging at higher current. If you want to drive your electric kart 40+ miles in one shot, it is possible; I've done it. Go for brushless motors and you don't have to...

Voltage sag could cause that. How low is it getting under full throttle?

Does your controller have a dedicated over-current error code? I think the closest my three Kelly models have are "internal" faults. What kind of voltage sag were you seeing? If you're still using that KLS8080H 96500 controller, it will try to supply 500A if you don't limit it. The difference...

Do you have a picture of the frame?

With something that small, one of those little brushless 3000W canister style motors would work. They can handle around 40A usually, which is pretty easy to achieve with a small lithium battery. I can drive the jeep I built for my son off-road with a less powerful motor and just 24v with no...

What frame are you using and how much does it weigh, how much will the driver/passengers weigh, what terrain will it be used in, what kind of performance do you want, and what is "cheap" to you?