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Here's the test run with the new KLS96701-8080NPS w/field weakening:

Get rid of the clutch.

You will need to acquire or build a frame. Do you have a source for one or are you good with fabrication?

A new test run with different gearing. I discovered Kelly finally added field weakening to this series of controllers, so I ordered one and the next video should feature a test run with it.

I tacked the hanger in without clamping and verified the axle slid freely through the bearings before fully welding.

The first result I got when searching that message was "You need an IXXAT branded USB to CAN adapter and a copy of Sevcon's DVT software to get it out of preop". That is some mega-dumb interface design to let you lock yourself out like that.

I finally managed to slightly bend my Flexpruf steel axle. It may have been due to catching air on a large bump around a manhole cover in the road. I also noticed more wear on the inboard of my rear tires than the outboard during the last tire change and decided to add a third bearing in the...

You have to have a license to use the software to make adjustments. What, do they let you use it just enough to break it?

That ratio and voltage will get you into the 40s. How much does the kart and rider(s) weigh together? About the contactor... I skimmed some of the Sevcon manual. It seems like the controller can use PWM to reduce the effective voltage to the contactor to allow lower-rated contactors to be used...

Good point. No, the KLS72701-8080N/NPS controller logic uses an isolated 12v I generate from a buck converter that I also control the contactor with. I run higher rated contactors on lower-end non-isolated controllers. I assumed the Sevcons were isolated, which they are apparently not!

Keep in mind that an ME1114 motor won't spin 5000rpm @ 48v without incredible field weakening. Do you know how the controller is configured? Without field weakening, it will be closer to the low 3k range loaded and running low 30s MPH based on your speed estimates for 5k RPM. The contactor...

Here's that motor running in my kart if you want an idea of performance (ME1904/ME1114 is the same). It can run harder than my setup pushes it, too.

Your wires don't appear stock. But at first glance E and F look like the charging wires and C and D should be your switch. Here's an old picture of my son's dune buggy with the wires connected.

Yes, it is possible to eliminate the jackshaft by going from 4 to 1, but your top speed will be drastically increased without a much larger axle sprocket. I don't remember if the tensioner has enough articulation to be retained or if you will have to remove it.

If you want to use a cell phone as your dash, you can do one of these...

As I recall, you had a T8F motor sprocket (4) that chewed up your #25 jackshaft input sprocket (3). Both of those need to be replaced with #25 sprockets unless you do a jackshaft delete and run straight from the motor sprocket to the axle sprocket. Razor likes to use essentially proprietary...

It is easy. The battery current limit setting has been available on all of the Kelly controllers I own. It is a percentage of the maximum available rated current. There are both desktop (Windows) and Android apps that can configure it. The Android app requires a Bluetooth accessory that is sold...

What chain were you running, #35? If you go 100% battery amps, what can you get your phase amps to?

I was able to hit 68+with my ME1717, but it was at the limits of what its power could deliver and acceleration was bad. I have no doubt the latest configuration could easily pass 70 with a gearing change.

The OD on the tires is 10.5. I set the limit at 6000 or 6500, but I haven't taken it to my preferred road for speed testing yet to see if it will go any faster. It does spin up to 6000 rpm with the wheels in the air with a 6000 rpm limit (from initial tests). If it can spin at least 6000rpm...