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Those solid wire cables are NOT made for recreational vehicles. They have a wire wrapped sheath that is designed to HOLD the cable from moving freely for tillers, mowers and other engines that need to maintain constant throttle for a long time. Not good for karts. Stop telling us it'll be fine...

By moving that cotter pin, you are giving that spring more room to move. Is that spring under tension when the pedal is at rest? Moving that pin and installing a longer spring shouls do what you want.

If you are asking about the spring around that pedal bar, I think you could remove the forward cotter pin and drill another hole a little farther forward. That would allow your pedal to rest farther back toward your foot. Don't go too far, because that is your return spring. We don't want a...

I think he is trying to get a Dingo running. and he stated his freebie engine is missing carb and tank. That is an excellent site for Briggs carbs, but I think OP is asking for suggestions on non-Briggs carbs, since he doesn't have one, currently. That is why I suggested a Predator as a cheaper...

So, not the one in your picture? A Tecumseh carbwith an adapter is MUCH less expensive and easier to set up. Still needs an adapter, but still good adjustability and perforfance. Most performance guys will sat go get a slide carb. I'm not one of them. I keep my governors operating for safety and...

Are your actually "vacuum cleaners" of simple rotary brooms with a dust pan? Wifey bought a couple and they immediately found the low spot in the floor and stayed there. Not happy costomers.

I believe they made Pusla jet and Vara jet carbs. The Pulse jet carbs pumped fuel up into a small bowl inside the 3 quart fuel tank.( like this one) and the Vara jet did not use that small bowl inside the tank. Those ones ran rich with a full tank and leaned out as the tank got low. This looks...

That looks like a Briggs Pulsa Jet carb. They are good carbs, easy to tune. With an adapter, you can install a Tillotson. They are great once you go through the learning process to get them tuned right. I would keep the original and find a filter for it. Ebay should have some.

To the original poster: do you want to PUSH or PULL the engine to solve your problem. Forgive the senile clowns who are not trying to help you. They get silly sometimes and forget what the question was.

You might need the shroud to match the recoil.

A leather work glove might be a good idea while you learn to start the beast. It will sting your fingers if it kicks back.

Find a rack and pinion for it.

Autopsy photos make the hobby world go 'round.

Jr. dragsters still run a class of flatheads based on the model 13, 5 horse flathead Briggs engine.

Steering linkage and tie rods will be interesting to see. That is a very ambitious project, for sure.

Briggs model 13 engines generally have parts available. Performance parts can be found by searching for "RAPTOR " parts. what part numbers are stamped into your cooling shrouds? Are they flatheads? (plug on top)

I see some surgical scars on the old engine plate and some newer scars on the current plate. Those do not inspire my confidence that the enigine if not moving under load. Can we see the welds holding the new channel plate on the original plate? I see one skinny weld UNDER the engine on the PTO side.

Pictures, please?

I have bought several on eBay in the past couple of years. They are out there is you keep looking. Good luck!

"Drift kart" has me thinking the frame is flexing. Is that possible? Is it possible your axle bearings might be allowing some side movement? Engine plate flexing?