Recent content by Weezil

Oh, the tierod was bent for sure. I bent it back straight but the wheels were still not pointing correctly so I started looking at other things and noticed this guy wasnt sitting at 90°. But looking at the other side, like you suggested, neither is the other one. If they did, part of it would...

My sons crashed the go-kart into a fence. They got too close and the passenger wheel grabbed it and turned the whole kart sideways. It wasn't a terrible crash, nobody got hurt but the front wheels are all cock-eyed now. My question, are these supposed to sit at a 90 degree angle? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info KartFab. I do have the 7in driven and thought I had the correct distance. The video I watched said about an 1/8th inch gap between the belt and bushing when you squeeze the belt together in front of the driven unit. That is what I had. After your post I went out to measure...

Well, nobody seemed to be familiar with the Everest brand torque converter so I thought I would start a thread and post a few thoughts and pics for your consideration. So far it works great. No lurching at the start or sticking in the open position like the original comet. It seems to be well...

Everest Brand torque converter? Everest Brand 3/4" 30 Series Driver & 5/8" 7" Driven Clutch Torque Converter Go Kart Cart Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYC2QGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7ekgzbRGX5ME6 Anyone familiar with this brand? Best deal I can find considering shipping is included. I wanted...

It seems to be. It has their name stamped on it. I can't be 100% sure all parts are genuine since I bought the kart used.

I'm done fooling with this thing. I've read everything on here about how to clean and adjust it. I've followed those instructions to the best of my ability and I can't get the $@!#& thing to work properly. Since I changed the jackshaft bearings, took it apart and cleaned it, and replaced the...

This torque converter is giving me fits. This afternoon the driver started sticking in the high rpm "setting". In other words, when you are at full throttle and it "closes", it sticks in the "closed" position and when the kids slow down the engine bogs and shuts off. I found some old threads...

It jumped the buttons again today. I took it back apart and noticed there was a bit of play in the "cap" after I put the snap ring back on, so I put 2 snap rings on and it doesn't move up and down anymore. Hopefully it won't do that again. Nobody has any ideas about that sleeve? How it might...

Is it just the driven unit?

Be sure to video the repairs and upload them here. Better yet, do an online course and I'll sign up.

Link to video I reference: https://youtu.be/IGeFOuWmsBk My driven unit jumped the buttons today. By that I mean the "cap" that sits on top of the spring went over the buttons and released the spring tension. It is entirely possible that I twisted it to much when I changed the spring and buttons...

I noticed the disk had moved when I took everything off to take that last pic. I just thought I needed to put some loctite on the hex things that keep it from sliding on the axle. Thanks for the tip. I will get a set.

The new disk and caliper brakes work. They even work better than the band brake that came on it. It stops well enough in the yard but when I took it out on the street and really opened it up, it took me about 150-200 feet to get it stopped. That just isn't acceptable. Is the only option I have...

It probably is a mistake, I have made my share for sure. But I only welded the bracket, the caliper slides in and out freely as long as I slide the disc off the axle at the same time. I'm not entirely sure how the whole system works to be honest so hopefully it can be removed with a grinder if...