Rockwell 440cc and a kenbar streaker?

Thepartsguy

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What!? No garage sodas and sitting round saying yup and and talking about how wicked the first ride is gonna be?
Amazingly enough ZERO garage sodas or ANYTHING mind altering. PA laws are NUTS but I understand why they are NUTS… last drank an angry orchard cider way back in 2019 reminded me of sunny d in a way.

As for things like THC say I take one hit (JUST ONE) it automatically bars me from driving for weeks as if I’m pulled over and blood tested I would end up with a DUI and by that I mean not even impaired.

Just detectable in the system is a AUTO DUI.. And I need to be able to drive at a moments notice so I could never risk anything like that.

As for tobacco NO WAY

Now that I think of it that’s probably why I spend all day in the garage :unsure::ROFLMAO: It’s something to do:ROFLMAO:
 

Thepartsguy

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Thin header tube is incredibly hard to weld.


It was only after I got it all welded up though I realized instead of a capped end I should have coned it to make it more dirt bike style expansion chamber like.

Ahh well it will dump the exhaust down below me and that’s really all I wanted.
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Thepartsguy

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Are chain tensioners reliable and can someone recommend one they have used or seen used.

I’m trying to fix an engineerding screw up and really don’t want a junky tensioner.

From now on anything I build gets the chain set before I weld stuff down.

We blame everything on Bobby around these parts so keeping with tradition


DANGIT BOBBY
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Thepartsguy

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You dont want the tentioner where your finger is.
It should be on the other side.

You could fab up a free wheel sprocket or just a roller from dirlin or a skateboard wheel might work.

Ive used the typical minibike tentioner for parts and made my own brackets too.
I don‘t know where else I can mount the tensioner.

They are cheap enough at $12 and I’m gonna try to mount it where my finger is and see what happens I guess. I’ll order two tensioners incase the one wrecks itself but mounting it anywhere else means I’m gonna have some most likely serious welding to do.

Moving on from that I need two small plugs to block off the primer ports on both sides of the intake. I need to go pickup some exhaust clamps as the previous owner of the sled cut them stripping the sled down.

And I’ll fit and finalize a fuel tank. Really a let down the engine has a walbro it’s a clean carburetor but has a return line to the tank so I’m gonna have to find a tank that has an inlet and an outlet.

I wear earplugs but my ears are ringing so bad I can’t stand to hear myself think. I have had it with just grinding welding and cutting paint fumes. I think I might take a couple weeks and just lay around.

Might be the last update on this thing for awhile. pictured below along with the tensioner I’ll be using is a Cotten swab that got the piece of metal out of my eyeball. I laid down flat held my eye open and my pops swabbed it out in one single swipe. (Thanks dad!!!) PS: I had glasses on. A full face mask is in order from here on out.



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Sparkwizard

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You want the tensioner on the slack side, not the pulling side. a tensioner on that side will just flatten out and be useless. A solid mounted wheel or sprocket might work if it is solid enough. WTR said the same thing...only in a different way.
I would consider notching the frame now instead of waiting for it to self clearance.
 

Edwin Spangler

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Im eager to see your tensioner solution. Id make a large triangular bracket that has a skateboard wheel pull down onto the top run of the chain. Thats what I did, only it needed to push up instead. Like WTR and SW say, you want the tensioner on the other side unless you make it SUPER robust. It needs to handle the full force being put into that chain.
 

Thepartsguy

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A chain tensioner is gonna be interesting.

Should have added this is post one but here is the snowmobile I cut up and snagged all these parts from.


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Thepartsguy

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Off to the hardware store for two small intake primer port plugs.

Ran the pulse line from the carburetor to the pulse port on the carburetor.

Added two fuel lines and I’ll work on mountong the tank in the back behind the engine mounts.

Small things for today. For the first time in years I fell asleep at like 10:30 and woke up around 9AM
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Thepartsguy

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Ignore my gasless flux core welds. Like an old buff They’ll hold

The tank is mounted I need to drill a small hole in the top of the tank and press fit my return line through and back to the hardware store for some industrial sized zipties.

I need another can of apple red for touch up also.

The intake primer plugs are in and the tank is about done. I forgot exhaust clamps! I’ll grab them when I go for a can of paint and zipties.
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Edwin Spangler

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Ignore my gasless flux core welds
Those welds will hold forever as long as you clean it and spray some rust inhibitor before you paint it. Otherwise, it will "rot" along the perimiter of the weld and the remaining metal will be too compromisedto use as structural support (re-weld).
 

Thepartsguy

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Those welds will hold forever as long as you clean it and spray some rust inhibitor before you paint it. Otherwise, it will "rot" along the perimiter of the weld and the remaining metal will be too compromisedto use as structural support (re-weld).
it got cleaned real well with a metal drill brush wheel. No rust inhibitor but it’ll never see outside in anything other then sunny days so I’m not to worried about anything rusting.

I drilled a hole and press fit the return line into the tank ran the fuel inlet and the tank is mounted down solid ready to go.

Working on both coil kill switches now.

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