Denny
Canned Monster
I would continue to use the washer and not worry about it.
Cheap Chinese TC? / A lesson in rushing purchases.
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Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
Ok I guess. Is it fine because the grease seal is already lubricated from smear? I am just confused but it was working before so I suppose it doesn’t matter. It just seems weird because I do think it rubs the grease seal but the general consensus agrees with you.
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
As I stated before: Stop worrying about the tiny details. When you get parts, put it together. Relax. It is a project. They take time.
Hellion
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I get what you are saying. If there is a part in direct contact with the rubber grease seal, friction there could destroy the seal. However the TC driven pulley, the jackshaft and the inner race of the jackshaft bearings should be turning together. A narrow-width spacer with the same inner diameter as the bearings will keep the pulley from spinning against the seal. That spacer, depending on how much room you can spare, needn't be any thicker than 1/16" or 1/8".
Is the Jackshaft 3/4" OD?
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
Yep.
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
Makes sense, parts are coming this afternoon. My dad gets back from his business trip tomorrow night so I will probably start putting it together Friday afternoon.
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Look at his measurements and tooth counts. He might have a low geared stump puller with a low RPM utility engine.
A CVT will help.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Did I miss those pully diameter and tooth counts?
Denny
Canned Monster
Yes, they were a bunch of posts back.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
I found it.
3.5" drive and a 8" driven then to a 10 tooth to 60 tooth.
Wow no wonder its slow.
Thats a 13.7 final ratio.
Good thing is you have the correct sprockets for the CVT.
Thats gonna be fun one you get it all back together.
3.5" drive and a 8" driven then to a 10 tooth to 60 tooth.
Wow no wonder its slow.
Thats a 13.7 final ratio.
Good thing is you have the correct sprockets for the CVT.
Thats gonna be fun one you get it all back together.
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
Alright, got the parts. Quick question. If not for spacing, do I need a washer on the driven pulley?
Edit: does the key need to extend all the way?
Edit 2:
Is it ok if a set screw fell out of my drive sprocket and I cannot find?
Edit: does the key need to extend all the way?
Edit 2:
Is it ok if a set screw fell out of my drive sprocket and I cannot find?
Last edited:
Denny
Canned Monster
I believe the key should be longer for strength. Others will argue to the death no it’s ok. So it’s your decision. And yes it’s ok if the screw fall out. That is just a function of gravity. (You’ll learn about it in school.) but you either must find it or go to ACE Hardware and get a replacement. Don’t run without it.
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
I have one screw, the sprocket had 2. Do I need both or just one? Also, what about whether or not to use a washer on the driven?
Edit: I will run it with the key short for now and order a longer one. How long should the key be as the driven pulley overhangs the threads of the jackshaft?
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Denny
Canned Monster
Use 2 screws, I lost one onetime and haven’t been the same since. Always use a washer where you can. I always use keys as long as the slot in the softest metal is. But that is list a me thing. I don’t like having to beat things apart.
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
So do I just extend the key to the end of the slot on the shaft where the Keyway ends as it gets thinner for threads? I am going to try to steal a set screw from the old pulley and hope they are the same. Is there any type of standard or common size?
Edit:
The stolen screw fit, that thing runs tomorrow. I will grab so key from tractor supply next time I’m out there. For now I doubt I will shear in the next week or so.
Edit 2:
I am wondering if I will reach top speed with these settings. Does anyone know at approximately what rpm the CVT maxes out at in each hole with a red spring? I have ~3200 rpm max according to sheets so probably a little less. I essentially want to reach the point where the CVT has as low of a ratio as possible at high end while having as much accel at the low end as possible.
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Hellion
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It’s called key stock and comes in various lengths, probably sold by the foot and then you cut what you need. It’s always good to have more than you need in your stash, just like bulk chain and especially if you have a kart addiction. Most keys take up most if not all of the space in the keyway.
As we’re back to the washers/spacers, I like washers, thrust washers and spacers, use one. Every now and then you can take things apart and inspect for wear or unusual wear and to see if you made the right choice. That being said, make sure your pulleys line up; this may negate or support the use of a washer.
Anything that was there and falls on the floor to be lost forever needs to be replaced. All for good measure. I mean karts are already bare minimum designs with very few parts but I try to keep things factory.
For me, I would wire wheel all shafts and spindles to make them factory smooth again. That rusty jackshaft offends my sensibilities, LOL. I’d wire-wheel it and then before reassembling, maybe coat the shaft with grease or maybe even a smear of anti-seize then put it together. This is so you can get it back apart in 5 years or so. I put things together shiny and clean so I can measure the amount of dirt or corrosion it’s getting.
All nuts and bolts (within reason) get anti-seize to help me or the next guy down the line.
As we’re back to the washers/spacers, I like washers, thrust washers and spacers, use one. Every now and then you can take things apart and inspect for wear or unusual wear and to see if you made the right choice. That being said, make sure your pulleys line up; this may negate or support the use of a washer.
Anything that was there and falls on the floor to be lost forever needs to be replaced. All for good measure. I mean karts are already bare minimum designs with very few parts but I try to keep things factory.
For me, I would wire wheel all shafts and spindles to make them factory smooth again. That rusty jackshaft offends my sensibilities, LOL. I’d wire-wheel it and then before reassembling, maybe coat the shaft with grease or maybe even a smear of anti-seize then put it together. This is so you can get it back apart in 5 years or so. I put things together shiny and clean so I can measure the amount of dirt or corrosion it’s getting.
All nuts and bolts (within reason) get anti-seize to help me or the next guy down the line.
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
Welp, more issues. My crankshaft spins counterclockwise assuming you look at it from the output not the flywheel side. Do you need just a new spring for the driven or also the drive? What colors? She runs, just slower and with less acceleration. I was looking and the ratios don’t change.
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Did you have the wheels off the ground? Did you try riding it?
Squiddy202
Manco Dingus
I was riding
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