I decided I wanted a dyno

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Flyinhillbilly

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Got some work done on the main frame. I'm going to opening day at the dragstrip tomorrow and since I'll be close to harbor freight I'll pick up some casters to roll it around on. Hopefully I'll have time to finish the bracing and mount the casters Sunday afternoon, if not I'll get after it early next week.
 

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mckutzy

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That's pretty cool...
Setup at a good height... Easy to work on...

Are you going to have the tach setup up on a mount near the ball valve or just keep it on the motor?...
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Andy got a good video of the first start up, and some torque numbers before our torque wrench adapter got weird as well as the first breakage. He'll upload it, but for now, it works.... Kind of. I can flat stop an engine with it, or hold it at any rpm I want. As far as the torque absorber goes, it works great, but the torque wrench adapter started shutting off when we'd load it. I didn't mess with it, but I'll start with new batteries I guess.
https://youtu.be/si-lsxNUpKA

---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

http://youtu.be/wLvx3n9QSW0

We really weren't measuring anything here, so I guess it's a DIY motor slower downer.
http://youtu.be/e8qxLffTwuI
 

Flyinhillbilly

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We fooled around with the torque adapter and got it working right again. It seems the battery was vibrating in it enough to make it lose connection and that was causing it to turn off. We rolled up some black tape and put it between the cover and battery to hopefully keep it from happening again. It will probably get tried again within the next few days to see how it works out.
 

Desertduler

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I built a hydraulic loading device years ago to simulate working loads for chainsaw power heads.
Your little dyno kinda of reminds me of it but I was not trying to get a torque reading just loading the power heads to set up the carburetors and to check running problems instead of having to have a huge log around to test run the saws in loaded conditions.
Kudos to you for building this little gem I am sure that you will learn a lot by using it you are smart and have common sense.
 

Desertduler

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Thank you. I've already learned that I need a finer adjustment than can be had with a ball valve. What did you use to regulate yours?
Gate valve, and by using a gate valve along with a hydraulic pressure gauge I could crank the valve knob down with the engine running at wide open throttle and I could watch the gauge and adjust the gate valve to get the highest PSI reading and of course that was the peak power level.

---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------

Also you might want to add a hydraulic oil filter after your valve on the return line going to your tank just to keep the pump alive.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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That's a good idea. Rather than a pressure guage I should be able to use the torque meter? As far as the filter goes I may add one later, but the way it is now it keeps a constant load on the engine even at idle, and I'm afraid that a filter would just cause more back pressure. They're a PITA to start on there as is, lol. I'm sure it'll be an evolutionary process, I just hope I can get usable reading for tuning with it but if not it's been fun screwing with it regardless.
If nothing else, I tried.
 

Desertduler

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That's a good idea. Rather than a pressure guage I should be able to use the torque meter? As far as the filter goes I may add one later, but the way it is now it keeps a constant load on the engine even at idle, and I'm afraid that a filter would just cause more back pressure. They're a PITA to start on there as is, lol. I'm sure it'll be an evolutionary process, I just hope I can get usable reading for tuning with it but if not it's been fun screwing with it regardless.
If nothing else, I tried.
Yes you can use a torque meter. I used a Clayton water brake engine dyno for years to break in all the gas and diesel engines of all types I rebuilt at my job I worked at for 38 years. That dyno used a electronic transducer mounted on the water brake turbine housing that sensed the torque that was induced and fed it to the main gauge panel. I had different gauges to monitor exhaust temps (pyrometers) and manometers which I use to monitor crankcase pressure which you could actually tell when the piston rings began to seat. I also had a chassis dyno that I used too. As far as a filter on the return line you will need to select a filter base that has larger ports than the line that you are using on the return line and select a filter that has more GPM rating above the pump that you are using by about 50% with at least a 10 micron rating. Another factor of course is the viscosity of the oil you are using in your tank and the temperature of the oil.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Decided I didn't like the coupler I made so I picked up a 3/4"X1/2" lovejoy and machined about half of the 1/2" side off, but it made it fit so nice. I think this is a much better arrangement.
 

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OwenMM

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Very cool little project. I was just about to start building a similar unit when this dropped into my lap for the right price. I also managed to get a full software setup and load cell from another guys aborted project. Need to build a new frame to suit my setup, a bit higher budget than your project but still cheap fun.

 

Flyinhillbilly

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Very cool little project. I was just about to start building a similar unit when this dropped into my lap for the right price. I also managed to get a full software setup and load cell from another guys aborted project. Need to build a new frame to suit my setup, a bit higher budget than your project but still cheap fun.


I hadn't thought about looking for a load cell and software from an aborted project, that's a great idea.

That's very cool, what are the specifics on it?
 

OwenMM

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It's an old stuska model 90 water brake designed for small engines up to around 150hp. It came with all the old analog gauges and load cell but I picked up the DTEC Dynertia 3 setup for well under half retail price so that will take care of that side of things. It needs a new steel frame manufacturing but otherwise everything is there and in good condition. Total project cost will probably come in around $1200 but I get a pretty good setup for that.


 

Flyinhillbilly

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I finally got time to test the dyno with the new coupler. It works great. I still need to finad a gate valve that is rated for over 100psi, and I can't fun one locally since I live in BFE, but I managed to make two pretty effective pulls with it so far. On straight methanol I'm getting a reading of 9.2ft/lbs, on 20% nitro I'm getting 10.3. A better valve will get better readings I'm sure. A buddy got video, but it's the same guy that did the oil test video, so I figure it'll get posted about this time next year :D
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Found a gate valve that's rated for 200PSI. I'm just going to nut up and go for it and see if it holds. 3 1/2 turns from full open to full closed so according to my simple hillbilly figuring it's about 16 times less sensitive than the ball valve. Hopefully I can take a whack at it this weekend.
 

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