Powerland 420cc GAB 2.0

Status
Not open for further replies.

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
9,646
Reaction score
1,830
Location
Chicago-town USA
Ok, 15 minutes for the copper spray to tack up, then I've got some copper-based thread lubricant (VersaChem Anti-Seize). If I had Nickle-based I'd probably use that. Time to torque the bolts. I've got a 12mm socket about two inches long and my torque wrench is ready to go. Going to lube the threads and the washers/underside of bolt head. The threads in the block were cleaned with carb cleaner and the air compressor.
https://www.amazon.com/Versachem-13109-Anti-Seize-Thread-Lubricant/dp/B0002JN57E
 

chancer

ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Messages
9,358
Reaction score
83
Location
COMFORT, TEXAS
Well at least you were correct to ask a legit Question.
Too bad it did not even make it to factory specs.

---------- Post added at 06:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 PM ----------

So excited, I put my head in a box and shipped it to Michigan.
.
Imagine..
 

Denny

Canned Monster
Messages
11,585
Reaction score
8,020
Location
Mayberry, Indiana
Carnage pictures please! Did you Loctite red the end of the studs in the block and let it set up before you tried tightening them? :smiley_omg:



Denny
 

Flyinhillbilly

The great cornholio
Messages
2,468
Reaction score
121
Location
North West Arkansas
I'm thinking it was a lube issue. I always use arp lube with arp bolts. I've seen wheel studs pulled in two at 100ft/lbs when anti seized up real good.
 

Randy H

New member
Messages
892
Reaction score
26
Any substance being compressed in a bind hole can create tremendous hydrauilic pressure. That and what FHB said.
 

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
9,646
Reaction score
1,830
Location
Chicago-town USA
I was thinking cause I milled 0.085"????
And reduced gasket thickness by another 0.015" or so.

And then used same sized bolts.
I did add washers that weren't there however
 

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
9,646
Reaction score
1,830
Location
Chicago-town USA
So after a long night of looking up how to use Heli-Coils and the differences between Heli-Coil and Time Sert Thread Repair Kits, I decided to look up prices for replacement blocks and/or new engines all together. Powerland is extinct I think. Only offering the 390 which is out of stock. Northern Tool has a $229 420cc with free in-store pickup.


So I figured I'd take a look at what I've done.....
I was going to back out the bolts, but I only had my Torque Wrench. ARC Video taught me to only use the Torque wrench in 1 direction.

So I set it back to 30 ft lbs and turned that sumnaB til it said CLICK!!!!!!!!

Then I repeated on the other 3 bolts.
Then 40 ft lbs.
Then 45 ft lbs.

I'm not sure what happened between 20 and 30 ft lbs, but it happened on every bolt. Maybe something with the washer?? I don't know and am no longer concerned.

I need to mount the engine before I try to torque any more, IF I try to torque any more. I don't think I'm comfortable with a 130 lb girl sitting on my engine while I press on the exhaust and pull the wrench. My exhaust might get hurt.


If I could dance, I probably would. LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDOFseZA-iI

---------- Post added at 01:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:28 PM ----------

Carnage pictures please! Did you Loctite red the end of the studs in the block and let it set up before you tried tightening them? :smiley_omg:



Denny

I guess there will be no carnage photos after all:cornut:

---------- Post added at 01:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------

I'm thinking it was a lube issue. I always use arp lube with arp bolts. I've seen wheel studs pulled in two at 100ft/lbs when anti seized up real good.

I thought about getting the recommended ARP Lube and then thought any lube would be as good. I hate being sold extra stuff I don't need and am a skeptic. I went with antiseize because I felt the 54 ft lbs was high already. I normally just use motor oil with stock bolts.

---------- Post added at 02:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:48 PM ----------

Can't find the valve lash specs in the PD420 manual.
I'll use what I saw in the Predator 420cc manual.

Intake 0.10 - 0.15mm
Exhaust 0.15mm - 0.20mm

So I'll try 0.004" Intake
and also 0.006" Exhaust
 

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
9,646
Reaction score
1,830
Location
Chicago-town USA
If they clicked at 30 with anti sieze all over them I wouldn't go any farther. They are tight as h3ll as is.

They Clicked at 45 ft lbs with the AS. I guess I'm finished. Thanks for the help.:thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 03:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:54 PM ----------

Valve lash is set. I want 0.004 and 0.006, so I set to 0.003" and 0.005". Should open up a bit with use. If not performance gains. LOL

1/1000 of and inch never hurt no body.
 

bob58o

SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Messages
9,646
Reaction score
1,830
Location
Chicago-town USA
I think I have the governor / throttle linkage set up the way it was, but it doesn't seem right. I'll get some pics or a video on Tuesday at the latest.

I watched KartFab's video and looked at some diagrams, but the way it is seems to keep the butterfly wide open when the throttle lever is in the idle position. I hate governors.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top