Powerland 420cc GAB 2.0

[bob58o]

My Exhaust has shipped.
Now it is time to ship my head!


I'll get it assembled with the the 35lb springs and stock valves and ship it to Howard's for a 1/10" trim and a three angle valve job.

Hopefully I get the head assembled tonight and shipped tomorrow.

 

[bob58o]

Am I the only one that thinks of a turbo with this pipe??

So cool!

 

[bob58o]

Head shipped to be milled 0.085".

Hoping for 11:1 and to use 93 octane.
The 212 may be drinking 93 too.

I think 93 is good for 11:1?????
I've heard of 12:1 on 93, but I guess blow by and cam timing make a difference too.

 

[bob58o]

So excited my exhaust showed up, I drove 12 miles to my buddy's house.
My buggy is in his garage.

I get there, play with the doggie, head to the back, open up the garage, see the buggy, and THEN remember I put my head in a box and shipped it to Michigan.

Imagine...

 

[chancer]

DOH!
The other night I laid out all the parts to assemble my Krate Kart. Set up the Ipad to do a Time lapse video. Got the axle half way put together...
Then realized I forgot to get the Axle ends Threaded! DOH! It is at the machine shop now and I got all this laid out ready to go..
I Feel like a girl that stood up by her Prom Date!!!

 

[bob58o]

So slow down that video and let's see your face when you realize it. LOL

 

[chancer]

LOL.
I already deleted it. Cause I want 1 full start to finish Vid.
That was the Bummer, Cause I had EVERYTHING laid out and ready to assemble in 1 uncut Video!
Oh well Next week right!

 

[bob58o]

Stock Head is 41cc
Bore is 90mm
Stroke is 66mm
Piston is 0.004" In The Hole
Stock Gasket is 0.045"
Piston Dish is 8-9cc's (I think). We will say 9cc.
Stock CR is 8.2 I think.?
https://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/compression-calculator

 

[bob58o]

Head is getting Milled 0.085".
Should be around 0.007" per CC according to here...
http://www.vegascarts.com/category-s/1822.htm

 

[bob58o]

I can't seem to find a 0.027"-0.030" 90mm gasket for this.

Maybe I can get away with the 0.022" 90mm????
Not sure if advertised thickness is compressed thickness???

Other option is 0.032" 90mm.

I know people run 0.020" on 212cc enigines. Wonder if it is same on 420cc? RPMs will be 5k and under.

I will call and leave messages at Howard's. They are closed for the rest of the week and will get to my head next week.

I want 1/10" instead of 0.085"!!!!

That should give around 26.7cc and allow me to use the 0.032" gasket and still have 11:1 Static CR. I think I should be able to run 93 octane pump gas with 11:1 CR. Don't want to leave anything on the table.

---------- Post added at 03:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------

With the timing key I got... 8* I may need to run better gas???
I was scared to use 93 on the 212. I'll probably be scared to run 93 on the 420.

I guess I wish the timing vs powerband question was answered definitively. The key I got may not help me with my under 5k engine.???

Waiting on the easy button video.

 

[bob58o]

Head is finished.
Just paid my $72 to get it shipped back.

It was done three days ago, but a mix up with my email means I didn't get the pay pal invoice.

It should get shipped 2mro.

I stayed with 0.085" milled off.
3 angle valve job.
so $30 + $25 + $17 shipping. VERY GOOD PRICING FOR HEAD WORK!!!
I already ported the runners and will finish polishing when I get it back (this time with while protecting the valve seats).

 

[bob58o]

Well I was just about to order the 90mm 0.032" Copper Head Gasket but Bullfrog wants $18 for the gasket and $14 for shipping.
Maybe I'll call and see If I can get cheaper like BMI.

$32 seems like a lot for a copper gasket.

I can't find another seller for a 90mm 0.027" - 0.032" gasket.

The 0.032" gasket will give me 10.6:1 static CR.

The stock camshaft (designed to function most efficiently at 3600 RPM) will probably not have much duration nor much overlap.

This means two things.
A.) Combustion Pressure remains high at low RPMs. A racing cam with lots of duration and lots of overlap needs ramming and scavenging type stuff to get enough air in the cylinder to get high combustion pressures. The overlap in a racing cam means that at low RPMs, where there is no ram / scavenging, combustion pressure bleeds off. The lope sound people love is the sound of inadequate combustion pressure. A Racing Cam can take more static Compression on lower octane vs a stock cam. High static CR, stock camshaft, low RPM, and low octane gas has a better chance of detonation than the same setup with more overlap.

B.) The lack of overlap is also what limits RPMs. Exhaust pulses pulling in the intake charge and other stuff helps fill the chamber more effectively at higher RPMs. Without an overlap, the Volumetric efficiency of a stock cam will fall off more rapidly as RPMs increase (compared to a racing cam, where higher RPMs are needed to fill the chamber and get decent combustion pressure.




Just my understanding of how a camshaft relates to CR.
Please correct if anything is wrong.

 

[bob58o]

What is wrong with my head????

No, Really!

What is this?

Looks like a thread? Like when you tap for a bolt and the last thread is incomplete (see how it looks like the threaded hole for the spark plug).

Did they miss when cutting the valve job?
Do I need to grind that smooth?

 

[bob58o]

Plug specs.
Stock Plug is BRP6ES 14mm flat seat with crush gasket...
so 18-21.6 ft lbs in an Aluminum Head

 

[bob58o]

https://www.sparkplugs.com/learning-center/article/116/how-do-i-find-a-colder-or-hotter-plug
How Do I Find a Colder or Hotter Plug?
November 8, 2011
Typically, the Heat Range is indicated within the manufacturer's part number for each plug. Examples have been provided below for some of the brands we supply. Once you have decided on a number, test to see if it exists by typing it into the search box. If it exists, you can add the part to your cart. For additional assistance contact our tech team at 888-800-9629.



Autolite:

Autolite indicates the Heat Range with the last digit of the part number. For example, 3923 has a Heat Range of 3. The higher the number, the hotter the plug. The lower the number, the colder the plug.

For example, starting with part # 24 (Heat Range 4), If you want a colder plug you would use part # 23 (Heat Range 3), for a hotter plug you would use part # 25 (Heat Range 5).



Bosch:

Bosch indicates the Heat Range in the middle of the plug number. For example, FR6DC+ has a Heat Range of 6. Bosch plugs get hotter the higher the number, colder the lower the number.

Starting with part # FR6DC+ (Heat Range 6), a colder plug would be # FR5DC+ (Heat Range 5), a hotter plug would be # FR7DC+ (Heat Range 7).



Champion:

Champion indicates the heat range in the middle of the plug number. For example, RV15YC6 has a heat range of 15. (The 6 at the end of this part indicates the Gap setting.) Champion plugs are hotter the higher the number, colder the lower the number.

Starting with part # RCJ7Y (Heat Range 7), a colder plug would be # RCJ6Y (heat range 6), a hotter plug would be # RCJ8Y (Heat Range 8).



Denso:

Denso indicates the heat range in the middle of the plug number. For example, SK20PR-A11 has a heat range of 20. The number at the end of the part indicates the Gap.

Denso Iridium Power plugs feature the Heat Range at the end of the part number. For example, IK20 has a Heat Range of 20. Denso plugs get colder the higher the number, hotter the lower the number. Starting with part # IK20 (Heat Range 20), a colder plug would be # IK22, a hotter plug would be # IK16.



NGK:

NGK indicates the heat range in the middle of the plug number. For example, BCPR6ES-11 has a heat range of 6. (The number after the “-“ is the Gap.) NGK plugs are colder the higher the number, hotter the lower the number.

Starting with part # BKR6E-11 (Heat Range 6), a colder plug would # BKR7E-11 (Heat Range 7), a hotter plug would be # BKR5E-11 (Heat Range 5).



EXCEPTION: NGK Racing Plugs: (Any NGK plug that begins with the letter “R”)

For NGK Racing Plugs, the Heat Range is located AFTER the hyphen.

Example: R5671A-10 has a Heat Range of 10. A colder plug would be # R5671A-11 (Heat Range 11), a hotter plug would be # R5671A-9 (Heat Range 9).

Some NGK Racing Plugs are also available in half heat ranges. These are displayed as a 2 or 3 digit number after the hyphen. For example, R6120-85 has a 8.5 Heat Range and R6120-105 has a 10.5 Heat Range.


Pulstar:

Pulstar indicates the Heat Range by the number "1" or "2" in the plug number.

Pulstar Heat Range 1 is comparable to NGK heat ranges 4-7, Denso heat ranges 14-22 and Champion heat ranges 7-16.
Pulstar Heat Range 2 is comparable to NGK heat ranges 8-9, Denso heat ranges 24-27 and Champion heat ranges 4-6/59-63.
At this time the colder Pulstar Heat Range 2 is only available in 2 racing plug designs, BE-2rT and HE-2rT.

 

[Randy H]

Do you recommend that torque pipe?

Nice plug info. I'm sure your a fine bartender. Ever thought about journalism?

 

[bob58o]

I went with AR3923....

Don't remember why I picked that one. It was a process of conversions and moving colder then cross referencing and getting what was in stock.

---------- Post added at 06:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 AM ----------

Do you recommend that torque pipe?

Nice plug info. I'm sure your a fine bartender. Ever thought about journalism?

Didn't start it yet. Will soon, but from what I've read and from what the people over at Robertson Torque Tubes told me... It is a good tube for 5k RPM or 5.5k RPM nd below. Should be fine for a 420cc. Need lots of work to get a 420cc to spin faster than that. But I've read and been told Power falls rapidly above that 5 or 5.5k RPM point.

I'm actually going to break in the engine on the buggy (a few tanks of gas) with the stock carb (jetted) and the governor still in. This stage of the build (after break in) is to get my buggy to do 50MPH at 5000 RPM

Oh that, I like to copy and paste so you don't have to click. LOL

 

[Randy H]

Thanks for the input. I'm putting together a budget stroker, low rpm, high compression 440.

I dig that pipe. But in my old brain I like the thought of exiting the exhaust port with a straight section, as long as possible. As well as larger diameter loops. All the while with a small diameter tube, and appropriate length. Velocity.

Unfortunately my brain bogs down after tech math 2. And might be making a mountain out of a mole hill. Pesky fluid dynamics and all.

Bob, you ever use dyno simulation software? I may start a thread on that.

 

[bob58o]

Thanks for the input. I'm putting together a budget stroker, low rpm, high compression 440.

I dig that pipe. But in my old brain I like the thought of exiting the exhaust port with a straight section, as long as possible. As well as larger diameter loops. All the while with a small diameter tube, and appropriate length. Velocity.

Unfortunately my brain bogs down after tech math 2. And might be making a mountain out of a mole hill. Pesky fluid dynamics and all.

Bob, you ever use dyno simulation software? I may start a thread on that.

Yes, but the software free trial ran out. I'm sure I have that somewhere for the 212cc. It was more of a learning tool like how does the powerband change when this is bigger? Now what if this is smaller?

 

[bob58o]

Torque Specs and Tolerances.
Says 25 Ft Lbs for Head Bolts


I bought some ARP Head Bolts to replace the factory bolts.

663-1010
BLK HEX M10 X 1.25 80UHL

Says 54 Ft Lbs??????

What do you think????


*Torque notes: The torque values represented here are intended to be for general information only, not for specific installations. On specific installations, where the supplied instructions deviate from the torque values listed here, always follow the specific instructions packaged with the kit. Always lubricate the fastener prior to applying torque to ensure accurate readings. The values below are for use with ARP Ultra-Torque®.