Bbqjoe
Banned
Before I go any further, let me reiterate: I am rather mechanically inclined, but a total noob to small engines such as these. I claim to know nothing, but tend to jump right in the deep end when I find something new and fun.
Instead of tacking more onto the timing thread, I decided to start a new one.
The breakdown, if you will:
2015 Baja Warrior:
Engine is stamped R200, meaning we have a Rato here.
So far all ordered parts have fit fine under the premise of ordering for a clone.
The carb has been replaced with a Mikuni and air filter.
A GTI torque converter was installed with almost zero modifications or trouble. The crank is threaded, and not tapped.
The governor is completely removed.
The cam is metal with a plastic gear.
The flywheel has magnets on the back side, and there's coils on the engine side. The bike has a working headlight.
Right now it starts on the first pull almost every time.
The plug is a nice tan.
The rear sprocket is stock.
The was no manufacturer sticker or info on the shroud, only a smeared Chinese looking stamp on the inside.
What I'm after:
Obviously, we all want reliability.
I need torque for climbing some pretty steep grades on dirt roads.
I also need the power because I keep adding weight. Soon will be another 16lbs or so with a new gas tank.
I'm not a speed demon, but I do like to kick it in the pants now and then, and don't wish to grenade an engine.
I have read in places that to be safe, it's best to replace rod and flywheel when removing the gov. I guess sometimes this isn't so.
But acting on that info, I have ordered a stock clone billet rod, and flywheel, including 18 lb springs. The flywheel is set at 32° BTDC.
After doing some hindsight research, I find the flywheel does not have the magnets on the backside, thus the new flywheel would negate my electrical power, or charging system as it may be.
I wish to keep that system, especially if I can expand on it some with a battery, real tach and some more lights.
I'm not certain if there's a voltage regulator or not, but I don't believe so. I have not put a volt meter on that system yet to see what's what.
So at this point none of the billet stuff has arrived yet.
A bit more info garnered says I might not need the billet flywheel, but the rod and springs are a good idea.
I have some magnets appx the same size as the ones on the stock flywheel which I suppose I might epoxy on if the flywheel is indeed needed, but there might be some risk involved if they come loose.
Poboy suggests a cam upgrade, and honestly I'm not certain what I would gain due to my lack of knowledge on it.
So there's a number of questions I humbly ask, and seek some solid answers for.
1. Do I need the billet flywheel? (If it fits)
2. Do I need the rod?
3. Should I install 18 lb springs?
4. Should I replace the cam?
5. Assuming I install the rod (to be on the safe side), and springs, what kind of RPM's would I achieve?
How about after the cam?
6. And at what RPM would I be risking blowing my leg off with a stock flywheel?
I appreciate all your help here!
Thanks
Instead of tacking more onto the timing thread, I decided to start a new one.
The breakdown, if you will:
2015 Baja Warrior:
Engine is stamped R200, meaning we have a Rato here.
So far all ordered parts have fit fine under the premise of ordering for a clone.
The carb has been replaced with a Mikuni and air filter.
A GTI torque converter was installed with almost zero modifications or trouble. The crank is threaded, and not tapped.
The governor is completely removed.
The cam is metal with a plastic gear.
The flywheel has magnets on the back side, and there's coils on the engine side. The bike has a working headlight.
Right now it starts on the first pull almost every time.
The plug is a nice tan.
The rear sprocket is stock.
The was no manufacturer sticker or info on the shroud, only a smeared Chinese looking stamp on the inside.
What I'm after:
Obviously, we all want reliability.
I need torque for climbing some pretty steep grades on dirt roads.
I also need the power because I keep adding weight. Soon will be another 16lbs or so with a new gas tank.
I'm not a speed demon, but I do like to kick it in the pants now and then, and don't wish to grenade an engine.
I have read in places that to be safe, it's best to replace rod and flywheel when removing the gov. I guess sometimes this isn't so.
But acting on that info, I have ordered a stock clone billet rod, and flywheel, including 18 lb springs. The flywheel is set at 32° BTDC.
After doing some hindsight research, I find the flywheel does not have the magnets on the backside, thus the new flywheel would negate my electrical power, or charging system as it may be.
I wish to keep that system, especially if I can expand on it some with a battery, real tach and some more lights.
I'm not certain if there's a voltage regulator or not, but I don't believe so. I have not put a volt meter on that system yet to see what's what.
So at this point none of the billet stuff has arrived yet.
A bit more info garnered says I might not need the billet flywheel, but the rod and springs are a good idea.
I have some magnets appx the same size as the ones on the stock flywheel which I suppose I might epoxy on if the flywheel is indeed needed, but there might be some risk involved if they come loose.
Poboy suggests a cam upgrade, and honestly I'm not certain what I would gain due to my lack of knowledge on it.
So there's a number of questions I humbly ask, and seek some solid answers for.
1. Do I need the billet flywheel? (If it fits)
2. Do I need the rod?
3. Should I install 18 lb springs?
4. Should I replace the cam?
5. Assuming I install the rod (to be on the safe side), and springs, what kind of RPM's would I achieve?
How about after the cam?
6. And at what RPM would I be risking blowing my leg off with a stock flywheel?
I appreciate all your help here!
Thanks
