B.M.800
TheBeal.
Not mine...
kick starter
- Thread starter bigkenny
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r97
Measure twice cut once
B.M.800, did you see post 15 or 17? LOL. The main problem with that design is that you would get something like 3/4 of a revolution on each kick, that could make getting an engine started a royal pain.
B.M.800
TheBeal.
B.M.800
TheBeal.
Cant say that I did...
Oops.
3/4 is all it takes for my Honda to start... if that.
Then again, the briggs takes a couple pulls to start... stinking thing.
Ive seen some bolt on kick starters, but I would imagine they are hard to find and pricy... I dunno maybe there are some still made?
B man
Tecumseh FTW!
B man
Tecumseh FTW!
Haha or..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1h-Tq50cSQ
haha wow. i might have to do that with mine. got a 6.5 predator on and it doesnt quite start on the first pull. this would make it alot easier id think
jamyers
Well-known member
That kid's thinking!!! I'll bet his next move is to rotate the housing around so he doesn't eat the next pull-rope...
Doc Sprocket
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Hopefully in all of this, he'll tie his shoes...
r97
Measure twice cut once
I'm sorry, I made a typo... 3/8 of a revolution is what I was thinking. I'm confused with your second statement, have you used some kind of variable ratio kick-start? I would think that the number of times the engine is spun by the kick-start is directly related to how much you move the kick-start lever, not how much force you apply to it.
Go over to oldminibikes.com and read the thread the person who made that kick start had. It is mentioned that starting the briggs was difficult because the engine didn't make enough revolutions.
jamyers
Well-known member
True, I'll bet he learns the value of that within a mile or so...
jamyers
Well-known member
I think it's a function of both, assuming that force applied = speed = rpm. I'd think that a good-running (well-tuned) engine would only need to be one or two revolutions to kick off...after being choked.
Then again, ever look at the kick-start on a GY6 engine? I can't see it working...only about 1/4 turn on the engine, and less than 2 inches of lever throw - not enough to impart hardly any "oomph" to the engine.
B man
Tecumseh FTW!
That may be true if you slowly pushed it down. but not if you kick it. After it hits full kick the engine doesn't simply stop. It will continue to rotate according to how much force was applied. Like when you pull a pull start. if you pull it does the fly wheel stop rotating if you pull the rope all the way out with a good yank?
r97
Measure twice cut once
That is a good point, although I still feel that I would want a higher ratio to have something that reliably got the engine started in one kick. Post #23 is what I would be thinking of as a well thought out kick-start for out industrial engines. Here is a picture of the inside to give everyone a better idea of how it works.
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Fairbanks_Morse_Kick_starter_030.jpg
mckutzy
Well-known member
I think that string trick is going to be the best bet for us clone owners.
or another idea is this
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25157&page=3
IIRC The briggs engines typically have a sprag bearing and that couples with its cord retractor. Clones just have two pawls that project/retract and interact with a starter cup on the crank, within the cord retractor unit.
Most kick starters on motorcycles have a cresent or circular gears to make the crank turn in the right direction to start. The briggs in the above pic is a kick forward design with the sprag bearing.
With that being said, I do wonder if a briggs sprag clutch could be mated to a clone engine without too much effort and work in a similar manner as above.
or another idea is this
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=25157&page=3
IIRC The briggs engines typically have a sprag bearing and that couples with its cord retractor. Clones just have two pawls that project/retract and interact with a starter cup on the crank, within the cord retractor unit.
Most kick starters on motorcycles have a cresent or circular gears to make the crank turn in the right direction to start. The briggs in the above pic is a kick forward design with the sprag bearing.
With that being said, I do wonder if a briggs sprag clutch could be mated to a clone engine without too much effort and work in a similar manner as above.
Doc Sprocket
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That's a good question. Makes me want to check my own equipment to see if the threads are compatible. I THINK the Briggs is 1/2-20. One thing though- the Briggs' have an extended nose on the crank for the clutch to ride on...
mckutzy
Well-known member
If you(toystory_4wd) or someone else could you post some pics of this ratchet mech, both sides, and maybe how it mates to the crank too, I have done the Google thing, I just haven't got the knack lately, I guess Iam not calling it the right name or something.
Also does the fan screen shown above, does it move with the ratchet only as it is being cranked or does it spin when the motor is running.
Forgive my ignorance with these motors, I have only very limited experience with this brand of motors, I only have the honda clone.
Also does the fan screen shown above, does it move with the ratchet only as it is being cranked or does it spin when the motor is running.
Forgive my ignorance with these motors, I have only very limited experience with this brand of motors, I only have the honda clone.
Doc Sprocket
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The debris screen turns with the flywheel. The starter clutch simply threads onto the shaft, but as I said there is an extended nose on the shaft. The inner hub of the clutch is threaded and acts like the flywheel nut, there is no other nut to hold the flywheel on.
mckutzy
Well-known member
toystory_4wd- You think the thread is 1/2"-20, what model of briggs is this for? Like hp/displacement?
Just to be sure, are these start clutches typical for these series of flat head engines, 3hp to 10hp for ex.?
I was meaning to go visit the lawnmower shop to get one of these to look at.
Just to be sure, are these start clutches typical for these series of flat head engines, 3hp to 10hp for ex.?
I was meaning to go visit the lawnmower shop to get one of these to look at.
Doc Sprocket
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I have not torn into a lot of Briggs engines. The 1/2-20 is partly based on a visual, and partly based on the fact that My Tec's use 1/2-20, so the odds are good. I actually used an american lug nut to hold a flywheel on a Tec while testing.
The starter clutches are common Briggs equipment. I have seen them from 3hp, up to 8hp. Any Briggs I have worked on larger than 8hp, were electric start only, so I don't know past that.
I also cannot positively say if they are all the same size.
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