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Simon Thomas

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Change of Screw

After lunch, I went to a hardware shop just now and purchased new sets of allen key screws. They are made of hardened steel (I guess because of the color). They will replace the stainless steel screws which I placed earlier on my rear axle shaft.

Reviewing the result of a few screws that came loose after trial run, I think I better replace them with cheaper screw and weld them. (do you call a thin weld as tig or tag welding?) This will prevent the screw come loose again.

Should I need to change or remove the parts along the axle shaft later, I just need to grind and redo the thin weld.

I will change this over the weekend and would like to see the result after that.
 

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landuse

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You probably wont need to weld them if you use something like Loctite to glue your screws tight. You can then always loosen them later if you want, but they wont come loose in the meantime. Welding seems a it too extreme.
 

Simon Thomas

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Could Not Find Loctite Glue

You probably wont need to weld them if you use something like Loctite to glue your screws tight. You can then always loosen them later if you want, but they wont come loose in the meantime. Welding seems a it too extreme.

Agree with that way, unfortunately could not find that stuff at the hardware shop where I regularly purchase my stuffs.

I still have this weekend to ask around on the loctite glue. If I found it, I will apply it. May be the shop has something similar to this stuff under different brand or name which I did not ask the shop. Taking into consideration this situation, I put welding as the last resort.

If I found that loctite glue and the likes, I still can keep the newly purchased screws for my next build.
 

Simon Thomas

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Called Another Hardware Shop

I called another hardware shop and they said they have it when I mentioned the name "loctite" and the use. So I should visit them this evening or tomorrow to check.
 

landuse

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I found loctite in the shop where I bought my bearings. They also sell chain etc. It was a bit too expensive for me, but then I found Pratleys Pratlock glue. You can have a look at it here:

http://www.pratley.com/thread_locking_adhesives.htm

It was much cheaper than loctite. Maybe you have some similar product there. We have shops here that just sell nuts and bolts, and that is where I found Pratlock.

When you want to remove the bolt again, all you do is heat the bolt and surrounding metal, and the glue melts enough to get the bolt out.
 

Simon Thomas

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Loctite Glue

Landuse, thanks for following up my thread up to now. I am surprised that many of you are resourceful here and willing to provide info to freshy like me. This is good in support to each other.

Back to the loctite story, I finally went to the hardware shop again and met the sales person whom I know all this while. He showed me the loctite glue. There are 2 types sold there with an expensive and cheap one. They come in different brand as well under the name of "wessbond" and "hardex". Be frank with you, this is my first time knowing this stuff in the market. Having the tips how to loosen it is very useful from you, Landuse. It is exactly as described at the back of the packing.

I picked the Hardex brand (RM14.80 or USD4.80) which is much cheaper than Wessbond (RM48.50 or USD16.20).

Let's try this locking adhesive tomorrow.
 

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Simon Thomas

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Safety and Maintenance Aspect

That's true. While enjoying building our design and enjoying riding it, it is good to ensure this safety and maintenance area is taken care also.

If you look at my profile, you will see my profession. That's why I stress this safety aspect as much as possible to ensure excitement and safety go along together. It is common when speaking of safety nowadays, it is stressed since the design stage.
 

fowler

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u can try that stuff

but if u need to heat it off to break the seal then it is very unnessercery

but it will work

have u looked at ordering some on the net?
242 is what u are after
 

Simon Thomas

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Change of Mind

I could not make my way to put the adhesive glue today. I changed my mind to do it tomorrow on Sunday. Instead of doing nothing today on Saturday, so I better continue with my works of my next build. Since early morning, I already get ready all my tools.

As usual, I use my car porch as my workshop.
 

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Simon Thomas

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Begin Work of Next Build

Then I started to cut all the 1.5" square hollow section which I purchased a few days ago as my build frame. I purchased 2 pieces actually. Each with 6m long. Hopefully enough until the completion of the body frame.

With my limited tools and knowledge in DIY, I still prefer a simple design.
 

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Simon Thomas

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Works Continue

The works continue. Some works which I managed to do today.
 

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Doc Sprocket

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(do you call a thin weld as tig or tag welding?)

The term you are looking for is, "Tack Weld".

Also- you have the Loctite threadlocker which is good, but I have another suggestion for you. When you take the screws out to apply the locktite, consider using a grinder to taper the ends of the screws, almost to a point. In doing so, they ends of the screws will get a better grip on the shaft.
 

landuse

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The term you are looking for is, "Tack Weld".

Also- you have the Loctite threadlocker which is good, but I have another suggestion for you. When you take the screws out to apply the locktite, consider using a grinder to taper the ends of the screws, almost to a point. In doing so, they ends of the screws will get a better grip on the shaft.

Good tip Toystory
 

Simon Thomas

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Welding Term and Thread Locker

The term you are looking for is, "Tack Weld".

Also- you have the Loctite threadlocker which is good, but I have another suggestion for you. When you take the screws out to apply the locktite, consider using a grinder to taper the ends of the screws, almost to a point. In doing so, they ends of the screws will get a better grip on the shaft.

Thanks for the correct term "tack welding".

Thanks for good tips on working with the adhesive glue from you as well. Agree with your suggestion on taping the screw end. I took some screws from my rear shaft which I did not taper it. This is what I got. I almost cannot take out the screws back. With some force, I managed to take out some (not all as some already bend) but I have spoiled the screw thread.

I learned one lesson already but then this can be solved in future with good suggestion from toystory.

The other lesson that I learned was that it is very important to apply the adhesive glue on the screw and must be applied correctly. Last weekend, my right rear wheel pin screw were gone and I only relied on the left wheel to push my buggy. Then I remember that I missed to apply the adhesive glue at that part.
 

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Simon Thomas

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Applied the Threadlocker

I already applied the threadlocker or adhesive glue to all my screws including the one that I missed. Hope this can be last long. Included photos taken from last weekend.

The other thing that I did last weekend was riding it to the nearby villages. I purposely stop by at one convenient shop crowded of people to refill my petrol and bought some drinks, and they were all amazed with the look of my buggy.

Well I said to them that so long they want to do something like this, it can be done. Actually people here who work as farmers really need something like this to assist in their agricultural work. Hope this can promote and inspire something good to the people here. People here use lots of motorbikes but when aging, the engine ends up at the scrap shop. If they saw something like this, hope they could re-use the engine to have something similar to what I have.
 

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Simon Thomas

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Is Bearing Housing Weldable?

I want to know whether the bearing housing is weldable or not? Understand that it is made of cast ion. When I check via internet, they say some can and some cannot. I haven't tried welding this before.

Plan to modify by welding the four-hole-type (not the one in photo attached) as my wheel hub later.

Please let me know if you have experience with this.
 

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