Yerf Dog 3203 light refurbishing

[Gasteffens]

Honda choke kit arrived, so far looks like it should be a good fit. Put the rear axle up, and had to reposition a few things slightly because it is aligned now. The bearings had to go on slightly different than before but everything appears to be in place. Next will be to drill and tap the holes for the belt guard, and then set the engine in to rough in the cables.

 

[jamyers]

Looking good!

 

[Gasteffens]

Nothing two exciting today but moving the needle!

Removed the key start, and I think it’s going roughly where I show it by the steering wheel. In doing so it opened up a spot on the engine I’ll show later where the hour meter will reside. Also labeled the wires because I know how it is by the time I get back to them, I won’t remember.

Also thinking of putting the battery box up there in that picture. There is less room on the swing arm than I thought for something like that once it starts going together. Open for ideas on this one too!

Set the engine on to see how it will fit, and the bolt holes line up perfectly with everything there already and I don’t think I’ll have to do much in that regard. Also I think it looks good in there!

Ps I’m not sure why some of these pictures keep rotating...

 

[Gasteffens]

Had a few minutes today which got cut short because I had a 3-year old helper. Was okay though because she insisted on using a wrench for something

You can see I have the oil drain hose installed which should help a lot with servicing.

Also my quick check says the front and rear pulleys should be parallel so long as I tighten all the engine/jackshaft bolts carefully. Also the center to center measurement says the stock size belt will do, but I will get a new one for good measure while it’s apart.

Next up will be to take the seat off to run the new throttle cable, setup the choke cable, and get the wires run for the key start. I have a lot of wire loom leftover from my firefighter days installing blue lights, so I’m hoping to make this wiring as clean as possible.

Few questions:

What size crankshaft bolt should work in your experiences with these Honda clones? The current one is 1.75” from the Tecumseh and my quick semi accurate checks says a 2.5” should work.

Has anyone heard of an oil fill plug extension with a longer dipstick? I suppose I’ll survive using a funnel in the future but I thought I’d ask here, it’s one thing I liked about the Tecumseh over this one was the tall dipstick.

 

[jamyers]

Not sure about the crank bolt, if it's too long you can use washers.

Also not sure about the oil fill extension, is there an oil fill on the front of the engine?

 

[Gasteffens]

Not sure about the crank bolt, if it's too long you can use washers.

Also not sure about the oil fill extension, is there an oil fill on the front of the engine?

I ended up buying the next 3 sizes longer of bolts for the crank at Menards. One should work and if too long I can trim or add a washer or two.

For the fill plug, yeah there are two like any Honda or clone, and both will be tight but doable.

Here is all I can find:

Amazon.com : Yoursme Silver Aluminum Mess Free Oil Change Funnel for Honda Generator EU1000i EU2000i : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Yoursme Silver Aluminum Mess Free Oil Change Funnel for Honda Generator EU1000i EU2000i : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

These seem like a waste, except if I could find an extension tube like these threaded and a longer dipstick, that would be the cat’s meow, but I don’t think such a piece exists.

I guess once it’s broken in I’ll only be changing the oil at most a couple times a year so using a funnel won’t be the end of the world lol

 

[Gasteffens]

2-1/2” bolt for the win. Extras get added to the drawer for my dad life “save it for later” stash

 

[Gasteffens]

A friend of mine came over with his family and we tried to get some of the cable arrangements going.

An open and honest review of the Carroll Stream throttle kit is that it is dated and needs to be slightly redesigned. Their latest engine does not have the exact setup as the kit was originally created, but I was able to make it work. In this regard, you are better off getting some hardware to connect it your own way.

Chasing all the kids prevented any of this from getting tidied up, but enough was done to know both the throttle and choke cables I chose will fit. Throttle cable just needs some small final fine tuning and I will have do fab a small bracket to mount the choke pull handle.

If anyone is interested in a bolt on remote choke kit for a Honda clone, the Honda kit for the GX120/GX160 fits this engine perfectly and I’d imagine other similar engines would be the same. All you need to add is your own cable.

 

[Gasteffens]

Had to do a little bit with this beautiful morning we had today. Got the choke and throttle cables about 75% done, but I’ll have to come up with something more robust than zip ties before I’m all done.

Also given the length of cable and my time I found a good spot for the choke pull lever. In the distance you can see I’m trying to figure out a place for the battery box which will also house a small fuse block I do not have pictures of yet.

Have the hour meter mostly installed but need to route the wire so it’s mostly hidden but not interfering with anything else.

 

[jamyers]

Looks good! I like the choke cable

 

[Gasteffens]

Looks good! I like the choke cable

Thanks! Figured I’m only doing the motor swap once and may as well add a few extras while I’m at it

 

[Gasteffens]

Nothing exotic but I got a new chain because there were some tight links I didn’t like. The new one was one link too long so we took that out and it fit perfect. FWIW, buying a 3' chain will fit your stock 3203 Yerf Dog if you take one link out.

Our 3 year old said she would help and she held the flashlights like a champ! Now I can adjust everything on the motor plate and tighten all those bolts, though I’ll have to revisit them if/when the chain stretches and breaks in.

 

[Gasteffens]

Got those cables as secure as I can for now, may fine tune those clamps or get a slightly different size but the cables don’t move much at all way better than zip ties. Rough fit the guard and it’s still good with everything. Definitely want it on for kids or anyone with long hair, ha!

Unless I come up with something better that’s where the battery box will go with some u bolts and careful wiring. Also still not completely sure with the key start assembly but I think something closer to what’s in the picture there.

 

[Gasteffens]

Started roughing in the battery as real estate is tight and cut/weld/fabricating is not in the stars now due to time. For true atv ruggedness something else would need to be arranged, but for yard and light trail duty this will be sufficient and easy to access for maintenance.

The battery and small fuse panel will be in the box for simplicity. The starter, control key box and lights will each have a fuse. Our 3 year old insists it needs a horn so a small scooter horn may be run to the 4th fuse - we’ll see haha.

 

[jamyers]

Hit up a local wrecking yard for a car horn, probably cheaper and louder than a scooter horn - unless you've already got one on hand.

 

[DT_400_Yerfodog_2Stroke]

Wow Looking good!

 

[Gasteffens]

Hit up a local wrecking yard for a car horn, probably cheaper and louder than a scooter horn - unless you've already got one on hand.

Worth a shot, though for the price I've seen those on Amazon it may not be worth my time. I'd want a scooter horn to keep it tame for the kids, and as I have thought it through, once the kids discover the button wherever it may be that may be something I'd regret installing. We'll see how other things go if that comes to pass or not. Maybe I'll just get one of those that sounds like a train horn

 

[Gasteffens]

Got the battery situated now and decided on an arrangement for the fuses. Soon I can start running wires, but every time I get something done I discover some little screw or trinket I need at the hardware store, ha!

Also I am going to ditch and possibly sell the stock key switch box and make my own panel that can kill everything including the lights and not just the engine with the key. I have some goodies ordered for that so stay tuned

 

[Gasteffens]

Got the appropriate screws to secure the fuse block to the battery bracket. Using a box since the shop I use isn’t insulated and no need to freeze a new battery.

Going to take that key switch, flip switch and gauge and try and install them into that electrical box. For the couple dollar cost it’s worth a try, and if it goes well I’ll use those clamps/bracket to secure it roughly where I have it in the picture.

Also I should expect a dud from time to time buying off Amazon - the gauge will look cool when I get a replacement that the whole thing lights up properly, ha!

Anyone know what the stock key box is worth? I see them going anywhere from $25-40 new so I figure a new take off maybe could fetch 20 ish?

Stay tuned - thanks to all that have commented so far, it gives me encouragement to keep putting it together!

Edit:

Added a picture of how my switch box will be. Need to track down another step bit that goes larger for the voltmeter but they should all fit fine.

Edit 2: Replacement volt meter is good!

 

[Gasteffens]

Coming along, now I’m pretty excited to mount and start running wires.