"Wrong" cylinder head FROM FACTORY??!

[JTSpeedDemon]

Hmm, well, I, uhm, hmmm........
This is what it says in oscaryu1's "My lil 5HP guide..."

"An easy way to spot these heads are by the numbers on the heads. If the head has a "10" on the top, it is a 4HP head. A 5HP head will have a number "13"."

Regarding cylinder heads.
Aaaand, you guys can see the pics I added.
WHAAAAT????
So it seems I have a 4 HP head on a 5 HP engine????
And the paint matches the rest of the engine, and I'm 95% it's the original paint, since it looks like a pro job(and it looks old).
Another important note: In the parts manual, the head is part# 211127 | Head-Cylinder (High Compression)
WHAAAAT???
Also I added the pic of one of the cylinder head bolts. E. Is that significant?
Please help me understand, I am confused.

 

[Budget GoKart]

Thats probably why your go kart is so powerful you have high compression. if you wanna turbo it you need to lower your compression.

 

[mckutzy]

If memory serves me right or im trippin.....I faintly recollect..
Thats the exhaust bolt. as it is shorter into the block... I know theres a few if not just 2...

 

[Hellion]

Are you sure you have a 5 HP/13 c.i. engine?

---------- Post added at 11:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

...Thats the exhaust bolt. as it is shorter into the block... I know theres a few if not just 2...

Never recollect seeing any bolts marked E but the 3 longest cylinder head bolts typically are installed around the exhaust valve, just on account of the higher heat/higher stress in that area.

I think with later engines, the head bolts are all the same length.

 

[mckutzy]

Ahh I think that was it...

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Are you sure you have a 5 HP/13 c.i. engine?

I am 100% sure that the model code is 132432.
Sooo, 13ci, according to the official B&S Numerical Designation System, cross-checked with my Haynes Techbook.
And I'm quite sure the blower housing with the codes and the cylinder head are factory.

I'm still confused.
But yes, the engine does seem abnormally powerful:
Case in point, I just noticed the other day, that when I was driving my go kart around the yard for my latest video, when I left the porch, it left a rubber mark!
And that's with a stock engine, high gearing, and fat rear tires.

---------- Post added at 08:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ----------

Never recollect seeing any bolts marked E but the 3 longest cylinder head bolts typically are installed around the exhaust valve, just on account of the higher heat/higher stress in that area.

I think with later engines, the head bolts are all the same length.

The confusing thing about that is that the particular head bolt in the pic, is basically right above the intake post.
But my engine is an '85 model, so it might be one of the "later" engines.

 

[Tpdingo]

JTSpeedDemon, Stop complaining about mismatched numbers and go have some fun with the briggs!

Those things are so interchangeable, its like a modular motor. It could be a Hi-Comp head, it could be a swapped head w/ another red briggs. I don't know, but if it works don't break it.

 

[itsid]

long bolt position acccording to Briggs L-head manual:


boltsizes (at least for the 130200s)
short bolts: 2 3/32" (55mm), long bolts:2 15/32" (63mm)

And yes that's correct, the 1324xx
had a 10cui engine's head installed for higher compression.
partnumber just as JT stated 211127
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...99/132432-0260-01/cyl-piston-oil-fill-crnkcse

and if you look at the engine numbers.. all 10cui engines
(funny enough the 1324's are not listed for soeme odd reason)
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/211127

everything's as it should..

Okay, one can swap the shroud from a 4hp to a 5hp..
but I doubt that's the case tbh.

'sid

PS I do not have the 'high compression' head on my 130200.. and it still outtorques my 6.5hp clones ...just sayin'

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

JTSpeedDemon, Stop complaining about mismatched numbers and go have some fun with the briggs!

Those things are so interchangeable, its like a modular motor. It could be a Hi-Comp head, it could be a swapped head w/ another red briggs. I don't know, but if it works don't break it.

I know, I don't mean it in a complaining way, I am just curious if someone has an explanation, or if there's something I'm missing.
BTW, it's not red, it's orange, but same difference.
I would be ripping it around the neighborhood, but I can't until I align the chain.
I guess I'll call it an HiPo flathead! With the extra compression and the long intake runner(which means more torque), it's almost a casual Raptor!
I know, not really. But! I like to brag about my engine!
So, I guess it's a HiPo 208! (Possibly smaller, probably)

---------- Post added at 11:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:42 AM ----------

long bolt position acccording to Briggs L-head manual:
View attachment 107679

boltsizes (at least for the 130200s)
short bolts: 2 3/32" (55mm), long bolts:2 15/32" (63mm)

And yes that's correct, the 1324xx
had a 10cui engine's head installed for higher compression.
partnumber just as JT stated 211127
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...99/132432-0260-01/cyl-piston-oil-fill-crnkcse

and if you look at the engine numbers.. all 10cui engines
(funny enough the 1324's are not listed for soeme odd reason)
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/211127

everything's as it should..

Okay, one can swap the shroud from a 4hp to a 5hp..
but I doubt that's the case tbh.

'sid

PS I do not have the 'high compression' head on my 130200.. and it still outtorques my 6.5hp clones ...just sayin'

Ok, good to know this engine hasn't been "molested".
Very interesting....

---------- Post added at 11:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 AM ----------

Maybe it's just not that well known. *shrug*
Or maybe it was some sort of SVO program. IDK

 

[Budget GoKart]

Honestly i want a 5hp for my first engine to mod or a 3.5hp if i had the time and money i would only have custom franken briggs that put out a good 8hp or so

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Yeah I'm very pleasantly surprised with this engine. I intend to protect and maintain it and keep it on the road for many years to come! With mods of course!

 

[Budget GoKart]

Only mods that id recommend is a longer exhaust and mabey some paint

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Oh, I've got a header for it! As for paint, I think I'm not going to touch it. I'll clean it up for sure though, and probably give it some clearcoat, since it's got some nice patina on the blower housing!
Eventually it'll most likely get billet parts, but it'll definitely get stage 1!
Until I get billet parts, I'm going to leave the governor in, since I don't want a piece of con rod in my back(ouch!).
That would probably make my parents make me get rid of my go kart.

 

[Tpdingo]

Yeah I'm very pleasantly surprised with this engine. I intend to protect and maintain it and keep it on the road for many years to come! With mods of course!

What the **** is there to maintain with one of those. He, look at what project farm does to his Briggs, and the **** thing keeps chugging after having every possible liquid known to man shoved in the crank case, everything remotely flammable in the gas tank, and it seized and unsiezed at least a half dozen times.

Just like Ozzy Osbourne(that's if you know who that is), you just can't kill it!

 

[Hellion]

Oh, I've got a header for it!

...I'm going to leave the governor in, since I don't want a piece of con rod in my back(ouch!).

That would probably make my parents make me get rid of my go kart.

What header? Where'd you get it?

You can take the governor out and be fine. In stock configuration you'll get valve flutter/float long before the flywheel or rod goes on a Briggs. Seems when rods let go it's mostly because of an oiling problem either from a current issue or neglect from the previous owner that caused damage.

Once you upgrade the cam, springs and compression, then you need to start paying mind to your revs.

What your parents don't know won't hurt them. Your secrets are safe here.

 

[Budget GoKart]

I wanna see this Briggs blow a couple tires I know my lil 3.5hp blew a tire on a kart

 

[Dingocat]

My friend's kart had harbor freight tires and I may have done a burnout with one. Not harming anyone now lol.

 

[Budget GoKart]

Bwahaha lol RIP

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

What header? Where'd you get it?

You can take the governor out and be fine. In stock configuration you'll get valve flutter/float long before the flywheel or rod goes on a Briggs. Seems when rods let go it's mostly because of an oiling problem either from a current issue or neglect from the previous owner that caused damage.

Once you upgrade the cam, springs and compression, then you need to start paying mind to your revs.

What your parents don't know won't hurt them. Your secrets are safe here.

This bad boy of a header.
Bought it at Pate Swap Meet this year, from a guy that had a trailer full of three old dirt speedway karts + a box of parts for them.
Lucky for me, two of the karts had flatheads, so he had parts for them!
I bought this header for the equivalent of $5! Total for that transaction was $10, I also got a nice chain guard.
Then when I came back later, I found a Mikuni fuel pump, a spare pull start assembly, and 3 intake/exhaust gaskets, which he let me have for free!!
If I hadn't spent $60 on a hot rod wagon, I might've been able to buy a flathead off one of the karts!
As for the governor, I really don't want to risk my somewhat exotic flathead, you can tease and tell me to remove the governor, but I probably won't do it at least until I get a billet rod in there.
Besides, before I do stuff like that, I need to be able to take the stock engine out for rides without throwing the chain! I actually am going to order some drive wheel bearings today...

 

[Hellion]

Nice 3-stage header. Or is it 4?

You’re a rare breed JTSD. Most people like yourself are afraid of the ol’ flatheads, just don’t understand them or hate them for no good reason usually.