Wiring Contactor w/switch

[mapoopsie]

Unfortunately, for $50 you don't get a wiring diagram with your 48v 50amp controller. All I have is wiring labels and even those are questionable translations. I decided to add the contactor as a way to subject the internals of the controller to as little current surges as possible (mainly by way of the resistor).

You're right that I probably could've just hooked up positive and negative with a switch in the middle, but who's learning anything doing that. This way I get to see lots of cool sparks and blow a bunch of fuses.

Now the question will be mounting all this hardware on the back of the dingo. Time to break out the MIG.

 

[itsid]

Hi..

thanks for asking Kevin,
I wondered a bit but not enough to doubt the 12V control at all.

DC-contactor.com has the information about the contactor (now that we know the model number)
https://www.dc-contactor.com/zj-series-dc-contactor/zj200d-dc-contactor

And with that image of the depicted contactor there..
yes yours it is indeed intended to take a 48V control signal (Coil voltage)
(last number is coil voltage NOT switch rating)

So now 48V will be needed..

in order to switch that coil and thus contact the Power terminals
You can't just use a straight loop
Battery+ to Switch to A1 and A2 to battery minus
if your diode is facing the wrong way around!

So make absolutely sure it's BLOCKING the battery wire from shorting
Sorry I haven't noticed.. but in your last photo it's the wrong way around.


And once that's fixed (diode turned around)
I think you'll be good

'sid

 

[mapoopsie]

Thanks Sid. That makes sense about the diode being in the wrong orientation. I guess switching the wires on A1/A2 solved that problem but probably not as intended by the manufacturer. When I wire it up to the kart, I'll reverse the diode and wires and I should have similar results (right?).

 

[itsid]

either diode or wires! not both.

The diode must sit BAT + ---|<----BAT-

it's there to take the charge off the collapsing coil when you toggle the switch to off
a so called flyback diode

IDK if you can simply swap A1 and A2 depends on the type of coil in the contactor..
I guess you can and it's internally rectifying the right way around anyways..
in case swapping A1 and A2 from plus to minus doesn't close the contactor properly,
just reverse polarity for A1 and 2 back and flip the diode to match above's crude diagram

'sid

 

[Functional Artist]

Thanks Sid. That makes sense about the diode being in the wrong orientation. I guess switching the wires on A1/A2 solved that problem but probably not as intended by the manufacturer. When I wire it up to the kart, I'll reverse the diode and wires and I should have similar results (right?).

What do you mean by "but probably not as intended by the manufacturer"?

The way the contactor is wired in the pic (post #16) is "as per" the Kelly wiring diagram (post #18)

FYI:
Here is an Alltrax speed controller operators manual.
It has lots of good (applicable) info that pertain to electric vehicles (page 8 has contactor info)
https://alltraxinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/DOC113-014-E_OP-SR-MANUAL.pdf

* Notice, the line on the diode is on/toward the positive (+) terminal in both, the Kelly diagram, the Alltrax diagrams & as Sid described too

 

[mapoopsie]

That is a good reference. I wish I had the $$ to spend on a solid Alltrax controller and motor. Maybe a future upgrade. My point about the manufacturer was that the A1/A2 represent just a switched component that could be activated from either pole so long as the diode is in the correct orientation. I've got the line on the diode towards the power side (A2), so the battery + must come from that side. I just need to flip the wires AND the diode for it to work and look like the Alltrax manual states.