What would you do for moving sprocket?
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JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
How'd ya get the kart and tools to stick to the ceiling?! 
If the sprocket is welded on you will have to cut the welds.
Some people have just never heard of lock collars.
If the sprocket is welded on you will have to cut the welds.
Some people have just never heard of lock collars.
mckutzy
Well-known member
Can we see a closer pic of the welded sprocket...
axle doesn't seem to have a keyway cut in (or is it just hidden?)
I assume you want to install a horizontal engine of sorts ..
maybe with a TAVKit or so, right?
Since you have had a gy6 you will need a much larger sprocket on the axle for the kart to move at all.
So, my first intention would be: as long as that hub isn't in the way of anything once the new engine mount is in place... leave it as is.
You will need a new hub (for more std sized kart sprockets) anyways,
since reusing the one you have will likely make it terribly difficult to find a matching size sprocket anyways.
'sid
I assume you want to install a horizontal engine of sorts ..
maybe with a TAVKit or so, right?
Since you have had a gy6 you will need a much larger sprocket on the axle for the kart to move at all.
So, my first intention would be: as long as that hub isn't in the way of anything once the new engine mount is in place... leave it as is.
You will need a new hub (for more std sized kart sprockets) anyways,
since reusing the one you have will likely make it terribly difficult to find a matching size sprocket anyways.
'sid
Can you explain why this sprocket wont work? I am new to all of this. I've got the Honda gx340 and I bought a 40 series torque converter that came with a 10 and 12 tooth sprocket. The sprocket on the axle I believe is a 31 tooth
anickode
Active member
You're going to need a 60-72 tooth sprocket depending on tire size. Gear ratio will just be too much for it. The old engine would have had internal gearing, or there was a jackshaft with compound gearing.
If you can salvage the sprocket hub, you might be able to find a larger sprocket with the right bolt pattern, or you can drill a blank plate sprocket to match.
Or you can buy a new hub and sprocket and just leave that one where it is if you don't think you can remove it without damaging the axle.
Or you can run a jackshaft between the 40 series and the axle to double the gear ratio and transmit the power to the existing sprocket location.
If you can salvage the sprocket hub, you might be able to find a larger sprocket with the right bolt pattern, or you can drill a blank plate sprocket to match.
Or you can buy a new hub and sprocket and just leave that one where it is if you don't think you can remove it without damaging the axle.
Or you can run a jackshaft between the 40 series and the axle to double the gear ratio and transmit the power to the existing sprocket location.
that exactly..
also gy6 es usually use motorcycle chain (480, 520 or something rather beefy)
and the #40/41 sprocket on your TC[the 10tooth one] doesn't match too well (even if the pitch is correct, roller size and width are likely going to be different)
And trakcing a C-style sprocket in a different chain size than #35 [the 12t one] or #40/41 is going to be a challenge.
the single motorcycle chain that fits is a 420 since it's outside dimensions is exactly as a #41 (just a lot beefier)
and that's what I'd recommend you to use tbh.
Now.. a series 40 I so hope you install a seperate jackshaft and do not try the "oh that looks easy"- backplate thing.
You will likel going to regret that very quickly as previous posts in this forum suggest.
(running a series 40 outboar in a non floating manner is chewing on the belt for sure)
'sid
also gy6 es usually use motorcycle chain (480, 520 or something rather beefy)
and the #40/41 sprocket on your TC[the 10tooth one] doesn't match too well (even if the pitch is correct, roller size and width are likely going to be different)
And trakcing a C-style sprocket in a different chain size than #35 [the 12t one] or #40/41 is going to be a challenge.
the single motorcycle chain that fits is a 420 since it's outside dimensions is exactly as a #41 (just a lot beefier)
and that's what I'd recommend you to use tbh.
Now.. a series 40 I so hope you install a seperate jackshaft and do not try the "oh that looks easy"- backplate thing.
You will likel going to regret that very quickly as previous posts in this forum suggest.
(running a series 40 outboar in a non floating manner is chewing on the belt for sure)
'sid
it's not that the backplate needs support..
it's just the incorrect way of using a series 40 TC and it will come and bite you sooner or later
use a seperate jackshaft as per Comets instructions, and run the driven inboard (may require a new driven spring if you bought a kit with backplate I'm afraid)
'sid
it's just the incorrect way of using a series 40 TC and it will come and bite you sooner or later
use a seperate jackshaft as per Comets instructions, and run the driven inboard (may require a new driven spring if you bought a kit with backplate I'm afraid)
'sid
So I understand this correctly. You are saying do not do what is done in the 3rd picture? I have seen pictures/videos throughout the internet with it done like this. So what issues do I risk down the road with this way? I also set my motor in roughly to give you guys an idea. Picture 1, where the blue line is. I was thinking of putting a new sprocket and to down with the chain. Picture 2 is what I believe you are telling me to do? Red is another Jack shaft. Blue is where there small front sprocket would go then down with the chain to a new sprocket at the original location.
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pic three shows a series30 TC (could you maybe find an even smaller one??)
Anyways.. totally different torque converter I'm afraid
(intentionally build to be set up outboard and be used with a backplate)
but your first two images (really, why screenshots of the thumbnail and not the image itself?? it's a pain having to blow them up into a pixelated mess just to see something)
show that you intend to run the driver inboard instead..
That might work as have been discussed several times.
in theory the belt should stay aligned again over transitioning ratios.
The only problem with that is we have NOT heard anyone confirming
that it actually does much less if that's reliable in the long run.
If you are willing to be the guinea pig.. thank you!
go ahead and give it a try.. and if it works please do let us know
(a video of the TC in action under load would be awesome!)
We've seen the claims and in theory it should indeed work
(if the crankshaft provides enough support for the driver that is..
which is the biggest of the concerns I have about this setup..)
But again: not a single real life confirmatory test has been made that we know of.
'sid
Anyways.. totally different torque converter I'm afraid
(intentionally build to be set up outboard and be used with a backplate)
but your first two images (really, why screenshots of the thumbnail and not the image itself?? it's a pain having to blow them up into a pixelated mess just to see something)
show that you intend to run the driver inboard instead..
That might work as have been discussed several times.
in theory the belt should stay aligned again over transitioning ratios.
The only problem with that is we have NOT heard anyone confirming
that it actually does much less if that's reliable in the long run.
If you are willing to be the guinea pig.. thank you!
go ahead and give it a try.. and if it works please do let us know
(a video of the TC in action under load would be awesome!)
We've seen the claims and in theory it should indeed work
(if the crankshaft provides enough support for the driver that is..
which is the biggest of the concerns I have about this setup..)
But again: not a single real life confirmatory test has been made that we know of.
'sid
Very welcoming feeling from a moderator.. I'm assuming you have seen this. https://youtu.be/FoHisVfMnMc
No I haven't (I don't watch much gokart related stuff on ebay actually.. odd I know
)so thanks for sharing.. that is indeed quite promising looking.
And in fact it's the first time I see such setup in action;
and the first time it was actually shown here on DIYGK as far as I know.
it'll be a bit tougher to maintain (putting the drylube on the rollers every couple of hours) but that's a minor price to pay IMHO.
And while it's easy to make something look working on youtube that actually isn't;
I doubt these guys are cheating;
looks like they really are just having fun with it!
It doesn't show all that I am worried about
(how much of the shaft is actually supporting the fixed sheave and such..)
So yeah, give it a try..
I'd still like to ask you to post some of your results if I may..
and a picture of driver mounted but not yet bolted on perhaps
a bit of first hand experience we can point follow up users to always helps
Nah, I just wanted to see one ideally from a trustworthy source
and last time I tried (some weeks ago)
I wasn't able to find any video showing it working.
(too narrow search terms I guess)
'sid
PS Oh.. what did I say to upset you? asking for larger images that show more details?
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