What tools are generally needed for building a go kart

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Flexibel_kampfe

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I was thinking, and I realized that I forgot to ask... what tools besides a welder are required for building a metal go kart. It would be for off road, so it ofcourse needs a roll cage, and stuff, but I wasnt completely sure the cheap way to bend metal accurately.

Any recommended HF tools?

Thanks

I couldnt find a tools thread/forum. I only could find 'how to use tools'.
 

Stratogeezer

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If you've already got the welder - then I'd invest in a HF 14" Chop Saw - I think I paid about $59 for mine. If you use square stock tubing - you don't need a tube bender - depends on what you like to work with. Also - very key - an angle grinder. You can use it both for cleaning metal surfaces for welding, grinding and metal cutting for smaller things the chop saw is too big for. Also a good drill or small drill press.

Harbor is great for welding accessories on the cheap. I'd recommend picking up some of the vise-grip like welding clamps (like 4.99 each) as well as some of those arrow-shaped magnets that help you position and hold metal square and in place. I bought a 5 pack of welding gloves there for like $9.99. Their welding wire is as cheap as anywhere I've shopped.

You'll also need regular hand tools especially as you get close to the finishing stages.
 

Flexibel_kampfe

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I have a grinder, but am still waiting on the welder. I am deciding between Hobart 125 and 140... I think the later, since my boss told me that I might be getting a 20% raise....($6/hr under the table.) And since I will be working 7days aweek(except for when it rains) and about 7 or 8 hours a day.... I stand to make about 3k... so for a welder I wont be cheap... but I am not going to get an IronMan or a Millermatic....

As soon as I get that, then I will try and coax the father into letting me build a buggy... I am not sure though he will like the garage being tied up.... oh well...
 

Blazkowiez

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I really dislike the Chop Saw, we've got one and it bogs down too easily doing simple tasks and the blades tend to crystallize. I know its cheep but it really makes me miss the Makita we had.
 

JHen

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I would get the Hobart 140. I have one, its nice. It let's you change the wire speed which is what controls the amperage. The 125 doesn't. Wire feed control and amperage control is pretty essential if you want to do serious welding.

A chop saw with a metal cutting blade is best. An angle grinder with cutoff wheel would be second best, then a reciprocating saw, then the good ol' hack saw.

A welder able to do the thicknesses you are wanting. A hobart 140 will do it just fine.

If you use round tube, then you will need a tube bender (not to be confused with a pipe bender. The difference is a tube bender wraps the tube around a die and the pipe bender pushes on the pipe to bend it, it looks like a bow and arrow when in use. Pipe bender is likely to kink the tube and not fit in the tool right, and takes a lot of extra work to use on tube. A tube bender is expensive...) You will also need a tube notcher. This is basically a device that holds your tube at an angle you want, and then you use a drill or drill press and a hole saw of the diameter you are going to connect this tube to and cut a circular hole in the end. This mates the tube to the one you wish to weld it to properly.

You will also need measuring devices like a tape measure, a good carpenters square (one of the big ones, helps to keep big pieces square) clamps, LOTS of clamps. A magnetic protractor, a level.

An angle grinder with a grinding wheel and a flap sander wheel is also quite invaluable. The sander wheel is great for cleaning metal up for welding.

A drill, preferably a drill press (much preferably). Ideally you would want one that can get down to at least 300 rpm. A drill press will give you much more control over the bit, will ensure your holes are square, its just better. You will need this for drilling mounting holes in brackets for things like engine mount plates, weight saver holes, and a multitude of other things. A drill press is invaluable. And remember, the bigger the bit, the lower the rpm and cutting fluid. Investing in a set of cobalt drill bits is also wise. The TiN bits are ok, but not as good as the cobalt bits.
 

Stratogeezer

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I agree with JHen - the Hobart 140 is an excellent welder. That's what I've got and I've used it heavily with great results.

The 140 is usable with or without welding shielding gas - however - my experience is that using the gas is by far the best option for the cleanest welds.
 

Stratogeezer

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I really dislike the Chop Saw, we've got one and it bogs down too easily doing simple tasks and the blades tend to crystallize. I know its cheep but it really makes me miss the Makita we had.

I hear you on the HF Chop Saw - I was disappointed at first but I figured out how to make it work for by lightening up on the pressure I push with - I've used it for hundreds of cuts. I found you just can't really push it like you probably could with a Makita or Milwaukee - but once you get the hang of it - it will cut and cut. Blades are only like $5 - and some did crystalize - others went on and on cutting.
 

Flexibel_kampfe

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Hows about the $60 HF DP?

Hows about the $130 tube bending wheel?

Would these work?

If I do go ahead, can one weld outside without having to worry about bystanders being flashed? I mean there is a good 20ft to the street... I hate to work in the garage, because, frankly, its small, I got barely any room, and people keep putting their :censored: in my work area.... meaning that I am constantly tripping on it.....

Thx.... :devil2:
 

devino246

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Even if you get a drill press, a hand held is still a must. I prefer a corded cause you dont have to worry about the battery going dead in the middle of drilling a hole.
 

devino246

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Hows about the $60 HF DP?

Hows about the $130 tube bending wheel?

Would these work?

If I do go ahead, can one weld outside without having to worry about bystanders being flashed? I mean there is a good 20ft to the street... I hate to work in the garage, because, frankly, its small, I got barely any room, and people keep putting their :censored: in my work area.... meaning that I am constantly tripping on it.....

Thx.... :devil2:

I have the drill press. It pretty good, kinda high on the rpm though(the lowest is 800 i think). A tubing notcher will not fit on this. I got by it by welding a piece of pipe on the column to accommodate. I weld outside all the time. If people stare at it long enough, its their problem. If your real worried, mabe put up a caution sign.
 

JHen

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If your worried about flashing people, try to stand between your welding and where people might be, that's what I do. And yeah, if they stare at the bright blinding light for longer than it takes reflexes to look away, they are pretty dumb.

I have no idea on the tubing wheel.
 

newrider3

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The tubing wheel thing is for rolling tubing to create huge sweeping arcs, not for making bends.
 

jr dragster T

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Ohh ok, I have a 14" Ryobi cut off saw and it has a gear reduction setup on it and I mean if I lean on it of course its going to bog but it just keeps grunting threw.
 

devino246

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As many HF tools that i own, i still would rather buy a brand name power hand tool. Even if its the cheapest brand name i can find. Ryobi corded drill- $30, works great. Hitatchi Grinder- $50?, best thing i ever bought. Even the cheapest brand name are better than HF. Now sure, if you need a drill press, get it at HF, never had a problem with one of their larger tools. Pipe bender, shop crane, bench grinder, air compressor, air tools, all from HF.
 

fowler

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buy 1 good tool for more
or buy a **** qulity tool now for nothing then replace it each month
it ends out to be cheaper and more efficiant to fork out a little more now
 

The_Machine

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harbor freight torque wrench was cheap and actually the values were on when compared to a craftsman. only problem is the little screwsfor the ratcheting housing slowly came out and the springs went flying. had to scour the entire yard for the spring but eventually found it, put it back together with loc-tite
 
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