What in the Sam Hill is this?
- Thread starter Jrork2002
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panchothedog
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Many Manco karts came with Hexagon live axels. I own one. Works fine. Looks like you might be missing a stop to prevent the wheel sliding around.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Yup 
For example:
https://www.bmikarts.com/42-x-78-Hex-Axle-for-Manco-606-607-616-617_p_5793.html
This replacement axle is used on Manco go karts 606, 607, 616 and 617.
Product Specs:
Looks like yours needs a lot of clean up
Maybe, soak the "crap" out of it with WD-40 (or the equivalent) before beating on it (too much)
For example:
https://www.bmikarts.com/42-x-78-Hex-Axle-for-Manco-606-607-616-617_p_5793.html
This replacement axle is used on Manco go karts 606, 607, 616 and 617.
Product Specs:
- 7/8" Hexagon shaped live axle
- Overall Length: 42"
- Hex Axle Portion: 39''
- Threaded Ends: 3/4-10 x 1-1/2"
Looks like yours needs a lot of clean up
Maybe, soak the "crap" out of it with WD-40 (or the equivalent) before beating on it (too much)
Denny
Canned Monster
Yea, I’m not seeing any collars on there. It’s part of the rim dude.
pearl111
Well-known member
If this was my project before I'd start hammering, I would use some type of penetrating oil. Let it soak for a good while.
This way you might be able to save some original parts, money and have an understanding,
what you're working with.
This way you might be able to save some original parts, money and have an understanding,
what you're working with.
thanks, I did not realize that was part of the rim. I will take everyone advice and clean it up good and use some penetrating lube before trying to remove.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Are you wanting/trying to remove both rear rims/tires?
Before using penetrating oil, I'd clean/wire brush the area as good as possible
It's best to remove as much of that corrosion build up, as possible
Then, "soak" 'er down (good)
...& give 'er a couple of hours (to penetrate)
Then, clean/wire brush 'er again
...& "soak" 'er down again
* Also, when you get to the "hammering" part, please DON'T just "beat" on the "naked" end of the axle
Thread (1) (or both if possible) of your axle nuts, onto the side of the axle that your trying to remove
...thread it down until the top of the nut, is even with the end of the axle
...but, be sure to leave a "space" for movement (so, it's NOT against the rim)
This will give you a larger surface area to "hammer" against
...& also, help protect the threads (on the end of the axle) from "hammering" damage
Before using penetrating oil, I'd clean/wire brush the area as good as possible
It's best to remove as much of that corrosion build up, as possible
Then, "soak" 'er down (good)
...& give 'er a couple of hours (to penetrate)
Then, clean/wire brush 'er again
...& "soak" 'er down again
* Also, when you get to the "hammering" part, please DON'T just "beat" on the "naked" end of the axle
Thread (1) (or both if possible) of your axle nuts, onto the side of the axle that your trying to remove
...thread it down until the top of the nut, is even with the end of the axle
...but, be sure to leave a "space" for movement (so, it's NOT against the rim)
This will give you a larger surface area to "hammer" against
...& also, help protect the threads (on the end of the axle) from "hammering" damage
Great advice! i really appreciate the thorough instructions. I will let you know how it turns out.Are you wanting/trying to remove both rear rims/tires?
Before using penetrating oil, I'd clean/wire brush the area as good as possible
It's best to remove as much of that corrosion build up, as possible
Then, "soak" 'er down (good)
...& give 'er a couple of hours (to penetrate)
Then, clean/wire brush 'er again
...& "soak" 'er down again
* Also, when you get to the "hammering" part, please DON'T just "beat" on the "naked" end of the axle
Thread (1) (or both if possible) of your axle nuts, onto the side of the axle that your trying to remove
...thread it down until the top of the nut, is even with the end of the axle
...but, be sure to leave a "space" for movement (so, it's NOT against the rim)
This will give you a larger surface area to "hammer" against
...& also, help protect the threads (on the end of the axle) from "hammering" damage
pearl111
Well-known member
Functional Artist, hit the nail on the head.
That's the way to clean it up,...... so it should be some what easier, when you start taking things apart.
That's the way to clean it up,...... so it should be some what easier, when you start taking things apart.
Denny
Canned Monster
If you need to use heat, remove the valve cores from the valve stems first so you don’t explode a tire or yourself!
Denny
Canned Monster
If you need to use heat, remove the valve cores from the valve stems first so you don’t explode a tire or yourself!
Karttekk
Well-known member
Same here. After days of soaking it, wailing on it, swearing and sweating I finally cut the axle to remove it. The few karts I've picked up with hex axles had seized wheels. The hex types seem to seize up more than round ones. As suggested, if you get it apart don't be shy on the anti-seize when reassembling.
BaconBitRacing
Well-known member
Yeah, my Streaker has round style and it came off with a few mallet whacks.
Hellion
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Did you ever get it off?
If you decide to replace the axle and wheels because they're hex and just too weird, there is or are people searching for the Manco hex wheels as they are no longer being made (could be wrong, BMI/GPS might be re-manufacturing them).
If you decide to replace the axle and wheels because they're hex and just too weird, there is or are people searching for the Manco hex wheels as they are no longer being made (could be wrong, BMI/GPS might be re-manufacturing them).
Karttekk
Well-known member
Hellion
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Nice, glad they still do. I think there is a bigger demand for the 8" rims however.
Master Hack
Well-known member
