What causes the pull start to rip back at you?

[Affair_driven]

100% POSITIVE!!!

Only fools are positive.

A little wager perhaps?
A new clone says I have much more experience than you.

As previously stated, a lightened flywheel would have the same effect.

 

[napalmfire]

100% POSITIVE!!!

It's a sheared flywheel key. i know from experience as this just happened to my minibike engine. it would rip that cord away from me so hard i got bruised from it whipping back around toward the engine.

its deffinitely the flywheel keyy.
goodluck
BAMBY

Yea I have a welt on the inside of my left leg from it snapping out. lol..

--

It has a rather chunky flywheel. I'm leaning towards a sheared key as well. I've been reading up on it and it seems to fit perfect with the descriptions i've seen.

I'll head down and pop off the flywheel in a few mins and I'll post back when I'm done.

 

[napalmfire]

The key was perfect, as was the pull start..

Could it be intended to fire this way because of its 15lb chopper wheel it's supposed to have on there?

 

[Affair_driven]

Yes, I tried to explain.

 

[napalmfire]

So i'll have to live with the hard starting? I'm not quite sure where I could find a heavier flywheel for this. It also runs fine if I can get it going.

 

[Affair_driven]

I purposely use the lighter flywheels.
Makes you faster off the line.
You may have to raise the idle speed slightly to help prevent stalling because of lack of inertia.
Once you get used to them, they aren't so difficult to start.
Requires a quick arm, a firm grip, and some muscle to get it started.
Just be ready for it. In other words, "man up".
Please don't forget to torque flywheel nut to factory spec.
If not properly torqued, there is a good chance that key will shear.
No doubt you and Bamby (any others?) learned something today.

 

[BAMBY]

wow!!!

thanks affair driven, for putting me in my place...

i could have sworn it wouldve been the key... oh well

@napalmfire sorry for leading you down the wrong path...
im glad your engine is in good shape though. should be perty powerfull!

BAMBY

 

[napalmfire]

I upped the idle screw and it works a bit better but the idle likes to vary through a pretty wide rpm range. I'm not going to rev it as there is no load yet, but my Honda clone doesn't have this problem. Once the Honda is on, it's on and has a consistent idle. Should I be concerned?

 

[Affair_driven]

Should I be concerned?

Not at all.

 

[napalmfire]

Thanks for your help Affair!

 

[Affair_driven]

No prob, it's why I'm here.
If you decide that hard starting is not for you, let me know. I'd be interested in purchase if you are looking to sell.

 

[slideways]

Tecumseh carbs are very finicky. All you can do is make sure that every passage is clear in the carb body with pressurized air and possibly some thin wire. Be careful blowing into the main jet/emulsion tube area as there is an o-ring in there that will go into orbit. Same with the needle/seat area.

The main jet has a hole going through it from top to bottom and ALSO from side to side.. this has to be clear to get any kind of reliability and consistency from the motor.


Once again... because this was used on a chipper there may be no compression release on the cam or some case where the flywheel is set up to be used with the chipper wheel. Very slowly roll the motor over until you feel the compression stroke. Just after this stroke is where you wind up and pull. Just expect it to recoil on you every time and you should be ok. I've seen alot of chippers that do this because of the effort required to get the flywheel turning. Also the 12.5hp Briggs motors commonly used on logsplitters and tractors are known for recoil too because of the size of what you are trying to start with a small force.

A better suggestion is to go to TSC or online and buy a "mitten handle" for your pull start. It simply replaces the small handle with a large D shape one that is much easier on the hands to start. All of Tecumseh's Snow King motors came with them because people had gloves on trying to start them.

 

[BradenM]

Same thing happens to my engine infrequently. It's the decompression release failing to perform it's intended function. If it's happening to you every time you pull on it, its probably the sheared key.

 

[napalmfire]

There is no sheared key. If I recall correctly, the decompression system is on the camshaft, but the camshaft is plastic and has no decompression release system. Seems to be working as intended imo.

And also, affair, how much would you be looking to pay for an engine like this? I might take you up on your offer. Apparently I cant send you PM's so if you want to discuss this you can send me a PM with some contact info of yours.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Plastic cam that sucks man.

 

[Affair_driven]

And also, affair, how much would you be looking to pay for an engine like this?

I'll get back to you in a couple hours.

Plastic cam that sucks man.

Why?
First time I saw one was at least 10 years ago in a Briggs.
Now just about everybody has them.

 

[napalmfire]

This engine seems to have quite a few hours through it and there is little to no wear on the plastic cam, or any other parts for that matter. I have no problems with plastic camshafts. Plastic, in the right form for the application, is much more durable than you think.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

I know it can be durable, but metal is just so much better. I understand its standard in a lot of engines, i just never trusted plastic for something that spins that much.

 

[Affair_driven]

This engine seems to have quite a few hours through it and there is little to no wear on the plastic cam, or any other parts

Sorry Napalmfire, I've decided against it after reading above post. I require an OHV Tecumseh that is virgin...meaning never disassembled (other than flywheel). Again, I apologize.

 

[napalmfire]

Oh this isnt what youre looking for then. Had to take some stuff off to even get it off of the chipper/blower.