Gillgamesh64
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I recommend taking a welding rod and a piece of metal with you and actully try it... And if it makes sparks than it works 
Welding... Minimum power?
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The Mechtician
Gargamel Jr.
For someone who's just starting out, the Harbor Freight 90 amp flux core machine is the absolute best value for the money. For around $100 out the door, you're welding. Even the cheapest oxy-acetylene setup will cost you more, and will be more difficult to master! However, those old stick machines that redsox posted are kickass!! Why? Old welding machines (built before the late 70's) are wound with tons & tons of heavy gauge copper, which not only makes them last a long time but makes them weld smoother than new machines. If you can get into an older stick machine like a Lincoln AC/DC 225 "tombstone" you'll have a steeper learning curve but you'll come out of it more skilled and have an easier time mastering other welding techniques.
My 2 cents
My 2 cents
Gillgamesh64
New member
I have never used one of tham small hobby mig machines, But I like to work with light material all the time and while we are on the subject can any one tell me how they perform what the finished welds turn out like, I am tossing up between a good little inverter stick welder or a small mig with the refill gas canister... Although i am still leaning towads a decent (lightweight) stick but just curious as i know industrial migs like to play up so not sure i trust the little migs but what i realy want to know will they run a nice weld like a larger machine??
Doc Sprocket
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If you get a convertible mig, then you don't need the gas. The welds clean up quite nicely with a wire cup wheel on an angle grinder.
I have a Lincoln "lunchbox" (Weld Pak 100), and it's more than sufficient for any kart duty. The welds come out quite good (see wire wheel comment), and it's convertible. I run FCAW (flux core "gasless") because I have a few spools of wire left over from the old days.
What do you mean by "play up"? If the machine is set up correctly and maintained well, they will run trouble-free for a long time. If you are referring to what we call "bird's nesting", that is combatted with keeping the cable liner and contact tip clean, as well as proper drive roller and spool tension. Oh- here's a tip- when welding, keep the gun cable as straight as you can, even if it means moving the machine a few more feet away from you. That helps keep the wire drive running smoothly, too. I have used a couple of big industrial machines and once they are set up correctly, it's just maintenance. I used to weld 8 hours a day, I'm sure they DIY-er can go a lot longer between adjustments and cleaning. I know that I haven't fooled with the tension on my little machine in a couple of years, as the 11lb spool lasts absolutely forever for the hobbiest.
Gillgamesh64
New member
Well i worked in an engineering shop for a while building lawnmowers, slashers and other assorted farm equipment and come to think about it those welders coped a thrashing and where due to be replaced but they used to be very touchy and the minute you mess with the wire feed or something they would internally combust, i have a basic understanding of how they work but if they ever played up i would place tham to the side to be fixed and grab another machine... I spent a few months welding 8 or 10 hrs a day, But for all the high stress or high carbon applications we went back to the stick, there where some really good inverter stick welders that we used and after using older machines the inverter welders kick ***!! But other than that i know nothing about engineering and would not know where to start in a modern shop as that place was a heavy engineering shop that was basically shut down by workplace health and safety And thoses machines where masive and 100 years old like the man who owend it! when i first started working there he showed me his gillatine the newest machine there and proudly told me he purchessed it in 81 (like it was still brand new) so i ask him where the backstop was, and he said with a grin "I took it of they make it to easy for you guys" Funny old ****er realy but on the other hand he could do anything need a hard to find piston the old boy will waddle out the back and cast a new one! anyway back on topic I will check out the tread, I have to look for some prices over here for gassless migs, If i can get one for under $200 bucks i am sure it will pay for itself even if it is inly used for sheet Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
The Mechtician
Gargamel Jr.
Small flux core machines, being DCEN, tend to blow holes in thin sheet. Using the tack-pause-tack method doesn't work well with flux core due to the thin but persistent slag, kinda like trying to tie into a stick weld without cleaning it first. Smaller hobby-size MIG machines are better for thin stuff and can produce clean welds but cheap low-end machines like the harbor freight units don't have a lot of heat settings available, which makes setting up for thin stuff more difficult. A Lincoln lunchbox like toystory's would be the cat's a$$, but will cost you more than $200 for sure.
I agree that some of the new inverter machines, from the big 3 (blue, red and yellow) and from newer startup companies (eg; Longevity Inc, Everlast, etc) are really awesome, although the chinese machines tend to blow their IGBT's a lot. I've got an older 100 amp ArcOne inverter machine myself and it's impressed the hell outta me many times, on top of being small enough to put in my back pocket
I bought it for TIG welding stainless exhausts but have burned some rod (mostly 3/32" 6013 and some 3/32" 7018) with no problems, although I did find that it just barely had enough jam for the 3/32" 7018. However, even the smallest inverter machine is gonna cost you more than $200. IMHO though, a small TIG unit is the best tool for the job, and gives you the capability to weld SS at some point in the future.Gillgamesh64
New member
I been looking on ebay and found these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ROSSI-MOS-21...30447837259?pt=AU_Welding&hash=item1e5f4c084b And think strait away stick to what i know works and just look at one of those.... Now i just have to burn out the old welder so the ball and chain will fork out some $$$ to replace it! But than again i may end up with nothing
The Mechtician
Gargamel Jr.
That doesn't look like a bad unit, the price is right and it will also make a good scratch-start TIG unit, but the minimum amperage is a little high (30 amps!). For stick welding it's fine since most rods won't even light up below 40 amps, but for TIG work it will be challenging to learn with, especially with no foot pedal. Look for something with a lower minimum amperage, like this unit. Its specs state 10-200amps, which will be better for TIG welding thin steel or stainless.
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