Viper Off Road Build

[gjpgonzo]

Houston we have a problem!

Ok, newbie mistake / problem, since I modified the design to add extra support to the A-Arms, I didn’t foresee the impact to the turning radius. I have tinkered around with a possible solution and have mocked up the following (pics). This allows the steering arms to swing at the amount they should, my questions is, am I going about it wrong? Should I do it this way? Is there any danger doing it like this?

 

[fowler]

one would assume u would weld them solid

but u will loose your akerman

any reason u cant run the tie rod inside the a a arm mount
the steering arms look mightily long

take a shot from the side parallel to the ground
u may be able to cut out a piece of the a arm mount to allow the tie rod to fit though

 

[gjpgonzo]

one would assume u would weld them solid

but u will loose your akerman

any reason u cant run the tie rod inside the a a arm mount
the steering arms look mightily long

take a shot from the side parallel to the ground
u may be able to cut out a piece of the a arm mount to allow the tie rod to fit though

Like this, would the up and down movement concern you?

 

[OzFab]

One thing I've learned through watching builds like this is the tie rods need to pivot at the same point as the A arms to prevent this situation &, more importantly, bump steer. Due to the nature of the design, those long tierods will never work successfully...

 

[gjpgonzo]

One thing I've learned through watching builds like this is the tie rods need to pivot at the same point as the A arms to prevent this situation &, more importantly, bump steer. Due to the nature of the design, those long tierods will never work successfully...

Then please please what should I do?

 

[OzFab]

First you need to create a steering rack the same width as the front of the frame, between the A arm mounts & attach the tie rods between it & the spindles.

A simple rack can be as basic as a length of flat stock running in guide brackets or as complex as an actual saw tooth rack & pinion...

 

[fowler]

what id do is start again on the a arm mounts

run the front of the shockie hoop down to the bottom rail
this is the rear a arm mounts
then run a tube from where the rear mounts are across to the front of the frame
this is for the top front mount
mount the lower arm to the bottom of the frame

would look a bit neater
and i dont really know what to do with the setup as it is

that top support is right in the way

as for the R&P
bugger it i say
u can shorten down a car rack real easy
i used only a grinder and welder and it took 3 hrs and alot of patience

but really with that much travel u wont notice the bump steer
anyway as i found out

the rack does have zero bump steer at straight ahead
but as soon as u turn it of course gos all outta line and theres no point

my first buggy i made the rack the perfect width
with my new buggy other peoples R&D has found a longer rack(one that sticks out each side a bit)
doesnt only give u a better turning circle but when u drop the front end under brakes or u land a bit or air as the suspension moves it pulls the wheels in a bit
so in those exteme load circumstances the wheels have some toe in, this leads to fewer lower a arm failures as the wheels exert an inward force as they track together
instead of a straight ahead or outward force

just run a bell crank as what is appears was the original plan
simple cheap
shouldn't be a problem with a few inches or travel

 

[gjpgonzo]

what id do is start again on the a arm mounts

run the front of the shockie hoop down to the bottom rail
this is the rear a arm mounts
then run a tube from where the rear mounts are across to the front of the frame
this is for the top front mount
mount the lower arm to the bottom of the frame

would look a bit neater
and i dont really know what to do with the setup as it is

that top support is right in the way

as for the R&P
bugger it i say
u can shorten down a car rack real easy
i used only a grinder and welder and it took 3 hrs and alot of patience

but really with that much travel u wont notice the bump steer
anyway as i found out

the rack does have zero bump steer at straight ahead
but as soon as u turn it of course gos all outta line and theres no point

my first buggy i made the rack the perfect width
with my new buggy other peoples R&D has found a longer rack(one that sticks out each side a bit)
doesnt only give u a better turning circle but when u drop the front end under brakes or u land a bit or air as the suspension moves it pulls the wheels in a bit
so in those exteme load circumstances the wheels have some toe in, this leads to fewer lower a arm failures as the wheels exert an inward force as they track together
instead of a straight ahead or outward force

just run a bell crank as what is appears was the original plan
simple cheap
shouldn't be a problem with a few inches or travel

Can you help with showing me some pictures of examples?



WHAT if I did this???????

 

[gjpgonzo]

Before and after

Please any help would be greatly appriciated!!!!!!!!!

Would the after work in this pic?

 

[exenos]

Both of your solutions that you posted would work by neither of them are ideal. The first one with the re done spindles may be your best bet. It has potential to cause bump steer but I don't think that you are going to have enough travel to worry about it.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

[gjpgonzo]

Both of your solutions that you posted would work by neither of them are ideal. The first one with the re done spindles may be your best bet. It has potential to cause bump steer but I don't think that you are going to have enough travel to worry about it.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

OK, made the change to the A-Arms and supports last night, check them out, it's not pretty, but I think it will work well. Learning allot from the mistakes. Next time should go allot smoother.

 

[exenos]

Definitely make sure you support the overhanging part of the mount.

 

[gjpgonzo]

Definitely make sure you support the overhanging part of the mount.

Yes this is my plan....ok?

 

[exenos]

That would work very well. You may want to put a vertical support as well but I dont think you will need it because the upper arm wont be taking much if any vertical force, mainly horizontal.

 

[gjpgonzo]

Progress Pictures

Thank you all for your ongoing help!

 

[mysteryboy28]

Shocks are too centered and far away from strong support. You need to spread them out more. Otherwise metal is gonna be bending and flexing in a bad way! The shocks should be much closer to the tires, and the tops mounted to points that have weight support (not the middle of your back!).

 

[gjpgonzo]

Shocks are too centered and far away from strong support. You need to spread them out more. Otherwise metal is gonna be bending and flexing in a bad way! The shocks should be much closer to the tires, and the tops mounted to points that have weight support (not the middle of your back!).

That's what the design calls for, i'll move them if it becomes a problem.

 

[Poboy kartman]

While I don't necessarily agree with Mysteryboy on shock location. ... ( nor disagree)... it did bring to my attention that you are going to be putting some force on that seat back that has no bracing on the front end. .....

 

[gjpgonzo]

While I don't necessarily agree with Mysteryboy on shock location. ... ( nor disagree)... it did bring to my attention that you are going to be putting some force on that seat back that has no bracing on the front end. .....

it will be supported by the nerf bar.

 

[Poboy kartman]

My bad- I forgotted it weren't finished yet..uh huk....