Two seater buggy build, wicked!

[mysteryboy28]

that front bracket IS the steerig arm. the hole in it is for bolting on your tie-rod. but you need to switch your front spindles around (left and right) so that the steering arm is facing rearward (and then adjust the angle of the steering arm for proper ackermann). i don't know what that big honky thing sticking up is that you're calling the steering arm. never seen anything like it before... lol.

 

[PeteNado]

Look at that pic before I removed the spindle from the old buggy. According to my noob analysis, that big honky thing seems to be connected both side to the steering with tie rods. Thats why i called it a steering arm. And that bar that IS with no doubt a steering arm exist only on one spindle and is not connected anywhere.

Whatever, i plan to use that never-seen honky thing as a steering arm (maybe i will modify a little bit the shape of it) and cut the useless front flat bar. That old strange buggy seems a little frankestein i admit! it probably has a few owner that made modifications to it

Edit: I could also switch the spindles, cut the big bar and keep the front one. But i would have to weld a new one to the othe left spindle too.

 

[mysteryboy28]

interesting. lol. ok, then the only problem i see is that the steering arms are too long.

the longer they are, the easier it will be be to turn your wheels, but they will turn less. short steering arms=greater turning ability (can make tighter turns)/harder to turn. if they are too long, then you will only be able to turn in large circles (nevermind ackermann). the steering arms up front look like they are about the right length for a good balance between turning radius and ease of steering. ok, maybe a LITTLE longer might be better, but not much.

picture below of where i would drill the holes for the tie-rods. test it and then trim off the excess if all is good.

 

[PeteNado]

You're totally right on that one, the lenght of these arms is really oversize. And by cutting it right before the bend as you point it, maybe they will have the right angle toward the center of the axle.

With that lenght, i think it will turn on a 40ft circle loll

 

[PeteNado]

Hi, here's some updates:

I've corrected the rake and caster angle by raising the front plates over the tube. Its now 1-1/4" higher, whats gives about 8°. (thanks to mysteryboy for advising). i added gusset plates to stiffen it.

So the front suspension setup is almost done, i'm just waiting for the shocks to be delivered. I've also remade the spindle's steering arms. See the pictures!

 

[mysteryboy28]

awesome. now just make sure your shocks have the same 8 degree rake.

 

[exenos]

Has anyone mentioned the 30 series tc and the 20hp engine? I think you'll need a 40 series for that

 

[PeteNado]

I just bought this rack on ebay. the distance eye to eye is almost exactly the same as the distance center to center of my a-arm pivot.

"This rack measures 11 3/8" from eye to eye and weighs approximately 2 1/4 lbs. The pinion will travel 3/4 of a turn from center to lock. The rack will travel 2 1/4" from center to lock. Distance between mounting holes is 1 5/16". The width of the body is 1 1/4"

 

[chris_the_poser]

No I just noticed that he said 30 series good catch exenos. The torque converter you want to use petenado is only rated to 13 hp on a good day and definitly will not hold up to a 20 hp motor.

 

[PeteNado]

Since i already recieved it and installed it on the engine, i'll test it and gives you feed back. it's never too late to buy new 40 series drive & driven clutches and install them without changing anything to the setup!

 

[chris_the_poser]

Prepare to buy lots of belts!

 

[mysteryboy28]

lots and lots and lots of belts! one every half hour or less is what you'll be going through.

maybe less if you ride downhill all day, or gear your buggy to go 10mph.

seriously dude, i learned the hard way, you can't use a comet 30 on anything bigger than a 9hp motor.

 

[PeteNado]

Then i'll order 40 series now to recieve it asap, anyone wanna buy a comet 30? haha

 

[mysteryboy28]

actually people love to buy stuff on here. so throw an ad in the "for sale" section, with pics and a good price, and it'll sell quickly!

glad you came to your senses. lol.

 

[PeteNado]

Updates! doing the engine bay and rear cage:

I drew the exact bolt pattern, print it 1:1 and punch the center holes, so the engine's base fit perfectly
in the welded nuts.

 

[landuse]

Personally I like having my nuts free so that I can loosen the bolt easier if I ever need to (Gee that sounded bad )

Is it me, or is your PTO supposed to face the other way?? I am not familiar with a V twin though

 

[PeteNado]

Other updates. Making the fuel tank out of a refurbished air compressor that i bought for only 35$ ! I was looking for an air tank with no compressor, but i've been seduced by the very low price.

I used the stock drain plug of the compressor, which is a NPT fitting that perfectly suit the application.

 

[itsid]

Is it me, or is your PTO supposed to face the other way?? I am not familiar with a V twin though

No, it's indeed the wrong way around.

Pete, the PTO will turn counter clockwise!
That kart will move backwards only (funny, but not really a good idea)

'sid

 

[PeteNado]

No, it's indeed the wrong way around.

Pete, the PTO will turn counter clockwise!
That kart will move backwards only (funny, but not really a good idea)

'sid

Hahaha so a stupid mistake! i even never thought about it since the exhaust was looking rear side! Not a big probleme, the V-twin has a symetric shape so i will turn it around 180° and it will fit perfeclty. But i will have to modifiy the exhaust pipe a bit.

 

[PeteNado]

A chance i posted progress before continuing the setup too far! thanks for catch

Do you think the exhaust will be too hot for the fuel tank? cause it will sit right over it when turned around