Tractor switch on Predator 420?

[CartMan007]

Hey everyone. First time posting here. I just want to know if it’s possible to use a tractor switch on a predator 420? I’m building a golf cart.

The tractor switch has accessory/starter/ignition/battery terminals. I hooked up the starter, battery, and there is an oil sensing wire and carburetor wire that honestly I have no idea which position to put them on.

The engine got power, but never turned over or started. my thought was that the oil sensor and carb were getting power correctly. My biggest worry before starting this electrical part of project was that the predator 420 ignition switch has a ground wire and this new switch doesn’t. When I did connect the oil and carb wires to the accessory or run positions, the 10amp fuse would pop. I put a higher amp fuse (20 amps just to see) and the two wires got hot.

I really only wanted the new switch to have accessory power without an additional switch on the dash, but if it’s not possible I can stop wasting my time. Thanks!

 

[Jacka$$withawrench]

Welcome! Pictures of your switch bank and what you're connecting would be handy.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Why does the carb need power?
Leave the oil sense wire disconnected. It's in series with ground to the coil to kill the engine if oil level is low.

 

[CartMan007]

1st pic is new switch. Second is the old switch (green is ground, top white and black is the starter, white is power). Third pic is the wire I thought went to the carb? Was I wrong?

I also realized I posted this in electric. Sorry, it is a gas motor which is probably obvious.

 

[Denny]

Use the switch that came with the engine. It’s the correct style.

 

[Willie1]

Use the switch that came with the engine. It’s the correct style.

Yup. First choice.

Reason being, the engine doesn't need power supplied to the coil to run, it needs the absence of ground. Generic utility switches apply 12v+ to the key on output, which can fry the coil on a small engine. Personally, I use the generic key switches from AYP riding mowers (Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc) since they are circuited to switch 12v+ for the starter, ground for the ignition, a key on 12v+ (carb fuel coil) and AC current for the headlights if the charging system doesn't have a stand alone voltage regulator.

Here's my go-to diagram for the AYP riding mower switch.

And yes, many people omit the low oil sensor - they are more used in stationary engines that don't have a problem with oil level being affected by the vehicles movement.

 

[CartMan007]

Thank you all for the replies.

1. I’d gladly use the same switch if I can solder/add on accessory spots.

2. Noted on the oil sensor. I’ll disconnect.

 

[CartMan007]

Yup. First choice.

Reason being, the engine doesn't need power supplied to the coil to run, it needs the absence of ground. Generic utility switches apply 12v+ to the key on output, which can fry the coil on a small engine. Personally, I use the generic key switches from AYP riding mowers (Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc) since they are circuited to switch 12v+ for the starter, ground for the ignition, a key on 12v+ (carb fuel coil) and AC current for the headlights if the charging system doesn't have a stand alone voltage regulator.

Here's my go-to diagram for the AYP riding mower switch.

And yes, many people omit the low oil sensor - they are more used in stationary engines that don't have a problem with oil level being affected by the vehicles movement.

This is very helpful. I won’t be using an alternator/regulator right now, but will be running power through a separate solenoid receiving power directly from the battery. With the Craftsman/Husqvarna switch, would I be able to connect L to turn on that solenoid?

 

[Willie1]

OK - did this quick, so the diagram icons aren't "technically correct". Key "Off" - switch grounds magneto. Key "Lights" - 12v+ to "B" (carb coil + P1) + "L" (relay). Key "Run" - 12v+ to "B" (carb coil + P1) . As shown, P1 is a light duty (5A) 12V+ feed for something that needs to be on if the engine is running. P2 is a 12V+ - 20A feed from the relay that is on only when the key is in the "Lights" position.
This should be what you asked for. Just remember - the "A2 - L" is a separate circuit and switches what is applied to "A2", so if you applied ground to "A2", ground would come out of "L".

 

[CartMan007]

OK - did this quick, so the diagram icons aren't "technically correct". Key "Off" - switch grounds magneto. Key "Lights" - 12v+ to "B" (carb coil + P1) + "L" (relay). Key "Run" - 12v+ to "B" (carb coil + P1) . As shown, P1 is a light duty (5A) 12V+ feed for something that needs to be on if the engine is running. P2 is a 12V+ - 20A feed from the relay that is on only when the key is in the "Lights" position.
This should be what you asked for. Just remember - the "A2 - L" is a separate circuit and switches what is applied to "A2", so if you applied ground to "A2", ground would come out of "L".

Thanks again. Taking some time to understand this, but I’m going to give it a try. Hoping it work, but if not it looks like I may just need to rewire the factory predator switch and then have a separate toggle switch to turn on the continuous duty solenoid which powers the fuse panel for accessories.

 

[CartMan007]

Hey all. Back in need of some help. Hooked the factory switch back up and the engine cranks but won’t turn over. I have no idea what to do. When I rigged the other switch, I did get it to crank but protective fuses blew and one wire got hot (I stopped after that). My initial thought was that maybe since gas was still injecting that the cylinders or carb might be flooded with fuel. But is it possible I fried the spark plug (I forget the actual name)? Any troubleshooting help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[CartMan007]

Update: got the engine to run again. Using a multimeter, I checked wire resistance which surprisingly I still had. Still will replace with fresh wires because I think the need it. But since it wasn’t the wire, I just replaced the spark plug and coil. It fired right up. Going to get the coil and the plug tested to see what exactly failed.

 

[Willie1]

I'd guess, judging by your previous posts, that you applied 12V+ to the coil wire and fried the coil.
Glad you got it running.

 

[leiget]

On my project, I got the exact same key switch. What I ended up doing is putting another, waterproof switch next to it that grounds the ignition coil. The key switch is the type that allows ignition by connecting it correctly, but a Predator is more of a lawnmower type engine so it stops by grounding out the wire that comes out of it.

 

[CartMan007]

On my project, I got the exact same key switch. What I ended up doing is putting another, waterproof switch next to it that grounds the ignition coil. The key switch is the type that allows ignition by connecting it correctly, but a Predator is more of a lawnmower type engine so it stops by grounding out the wire that comes out of it.

Ok. I think this may actually work for me! Because I really like the switch I bought and would like to use it. Can you send my a picture or give me more details on how to ground it with a second switch? It'll help me avoid frying the coil for a second time.

 

[leiget]

 

[CartMan007]

Thanks for the diagram. I'm a little confused though so maybe I'm not understanding the diagram right. I'm not seeing a second grounding switch. I'm also not seeing where the ignition coil wire connects.

 

[leiget]

Thanks for the diagram. I'm a little confused though so maybe I'm not understanding the diagram right. I'm not seeing a second grounding switch. I'm also not seeing where the ignition coil wire connects.

The grounding switch is in the bottom half of the pic. You just hook it up to the wire that comes out of the ignition coil. The wire will be on the top of the engine, but under the gas tank.

 

[CartMan007]

I think I get it. So if I understand correctly, the ignition coil will hook up to the second switch, but not to the ignition switch at all? The only wire connected to the ignition switch on that side would be the end of that brown wire?

 

[leiget]

It'll be the wire that goes to the ignition coil. On my 420cc Predator the brown wire is the charging wire.