Torque converter sprocket location?

[greenkidd]

Hi guys, I'm new here and had a question(s). I recently bought a go kart with a torque converter but it had some problems (torque converter "creep", among others). I finally had a chance to look at it when it stopped driving and discovered some things. The driven pulley appears to be uneven/wobbly and there's no nylock nut on the end of the shaft. I ordered a complete torque converter setup and hope to install soon. Is it okay to have the chain drive sprocket on the end of the jackshaft like it originally was? If not, is there a better place to install the sprocket?

 

[JimD]

I have never seen one mounted like that and the problem with it that fall out on the shaft is you will bend the 3/4" jackshaft. The sprocket is normally on the back of the plate of the T/C. If you can move the axle sprocket I would certainly do it. Give us a few more pictures to see if it is even feasible. Some picture from behind the kart looking forward to the driven unit.

 

[greenkidd]

Thanks Jim. Yeah, that stress on the end of the shaft is what I'm concerned with too. Here's another photo I took yesterday but I don't know if it shows well enough the distance/angle of everything. I'll take more tonight from the rear of the kart.

 

[greenkidd]

Here's another. If it's possible to get the sprocket on the backside of the driven pulley, I'm all for it. Obviously, I don't think the main big sprocket on the driveshaft can be moved (or can it?).

 

[JimD]

It can be moved if it is not welded to the axle and you want to make sure the axle has the 1/4"keyway extended far enough. I certainly would like a couple more pictures to include looking down at the axle with the keyway showing. It certainly would help on your alignment right now because you have to move the driven out quite a bit to get it aligned with the driver. I hope the axle sprocket is NOT attached to the wheel because then you are not going to be able to move it. Pictures would help.

 

[Denny]

It can be moved if it is not welded to the axle and you want to make sure the axle has the 1/4"keyway extended far enough. I certainly would like a couple more pictures to include looking down at the axle with the keyway showing. It certainly would help on your alignment right now because you have to move the driven out quite a bit to get it aligned with the driver. I hope the axle sprocket is NOT attached to the wheel because then you are not going to be able to move it. Pictures would help.

That’s the best advise your going to get?

 

[greenkidd]

Well, I just went out there and the axle sprocket mounting bracket is indeed welded to the axle (I don't know if you can tell in my photos). The sprocket itself is just bolted to that bracket though, but that doesn't help much. I also snapped a few photos.

 

[Dingocat]

You could make a spacer for the lower sprocket that spaces it from the hub. Would be more stable than a outboard tc sprocket. Eithor that or redo the axle with a fresh hub and probably bearings.

 

[JimD]

Just so more comments based on your pictures. Give me the diameter of the tire from the ground to the top of the tire. Take the time and count ALL the teeth on the rear sprocket. I just don't like how far out the tire is from the frame. if you were to cut a corner to sharp and hit the tire against a post, tree, etc. you will bend that axle QUICK. The knurl on the axle is another question that we will hold for later. Once you give me the diameter and number of teeth I can give you the best fix for what you have. Also give me the measurement on the chain 0the distance between two pins--center to center -It will either be 3/8" or 1/2".

 

[greenkidd]

Thanks Jim, I'll check it out and get those numbers. Part of me wonders if the axle shaft is pulled out of the differential/carrier because the splines are showing. On the other side, the shaft isn't showing any splines. I don't know if there's a way to adjust and push the driver side axle shaft into the differential/carrier?

 

[JimD]

You should have about the same amount of shaft for the axle on either side of the frame. See if your axle is walking out to the left. Now is the time to get that back before you have a major problem. The spline is working it way out of something and you don't want a lock collar on it to screw up the splines.

 

[greenkidd]

Okay, the sprocket has 69 teeth, the tire is @16" outside diameter, and the links are 1/2". Also, after looking, could I loosen the collar clamps on the axle(s) and slide the axle over toward the passenger side? I kind of feel like a previous owner moved the axle out more on the driver side. I attached some photos so it hopefully makes sense! I might loosen those lock collars on both sides and push the axle toward the passenger side so the splines are all the way in.

 

[JimD]

Ideally you want to get that sprocket as close to the inside frame as possible which will help on your torque converter. The chain going to the axle isnormally on the inside of the rear sprocket next to the frame where you can see the splines right now. The way it was in your early picture is not how they are designed to go.

 

[greenkidd]

Well I finally got to the kart and after using some heat, was able to get the passenger side loose. Now I can at least move the axle inwards to have the sprocket line up better but on the passenger side I’m not able to move the bearing inward because the diameter of the axle is too large. Also, there was a broken wave washer that came out.

 

[JimD]

The axle most likely is all the same size but the sleeve or tube that it is going into is a little larger in diameter. The tube is there so hair or a long scarf cannot wrap around it. The tube is a safety device put on karts in the late 1990's. You have half the battle won by moving the axle and get the items on it to slide. Now working on the sprocket side. Figure you will have to replace the bearings, the brake rotor should still be good as well as the sprocket and the carrier. Did you find out that the sprocket was welded to the axle?? (Let's hope not.) I would take all the items off the axle and make sure it is round and not bent. Best way to check that out is roll it on a nice flat surface and verify it rolls nicely. A flat table top made of steel or a marble counter top when you wife is out shopping would be the best indicator. Once it is out sand it with some emery paper so everything will slide easy when you go to reassemble. You should get four good lock collars to hold everything in place when you are done. You might have to shorten the spacers on the axle to get your lock collars in place, you can do that with a hacksaw and a belt sander when you are done cutting them so they look good. Where are you located? If you are close by I will put them in my lathe to true up the ends?

 

[greenkidd]

Thanks! The sprocket is welded to the axle. I considered grinding the welds off if I can but a part of me is just considering a new axle. The brake is good but I’d get new bearings and lock collars.

 

[JimD]

Don't spend money you don't need to. Make sure it will roll nicely on a flat surface. Yes, grind off the weld so you can remove the sprocket. Send me the sprocket and I will make a new hub for it that will have the 1/4" keyway and a set screw hole over the keyway. Your only cost on it is the shipping to and from my place. I will make the hub flush on one side to you can move it as close as possible to the frame and the other side it will stick out about 1". It will have a nice tig weld around the hub to the sprocket. Just look up Max-Torque and ship it to that address on the web site.

 

[FlyFrog]

Don't spend money you don't need to. Make sure it will roll nicely on a flat surface. Yes, grind off the weld so you can remove the sprocket. Send me the sprocket and I will make a new hub for it that will have the 1/4" keyway and a set screw hole over the keyway. Your only cost on it is the shipping to and from my place. I will make the hub flush on one side to you can move it as close as possible to the frame and the other side it will stick out about 1". It will have a nice tig weld around the hub to the sprocket. Just look up Max-Torque and ship it to that address on the web site.

well jim, had no clue you are owner of max torque, i need to thank you for getting me into go carts, my first go cart was just a frame and me and my grandpa had bought many catalogs from you guys for parts, i have one of your old max torque decals, i keep it in a cabniet in the garage i work in, do you still make catalogs, we have looked around for them and cant seem to find them, is everything online? and do you guys sell centrifugal clutch springs? i only have 1 more left and they break kind of often due to the rpm they are rated for is lower than what my cart puts out, that right there is what was made from parts from you guys, some things have been switched over the years but for the most part its still the same

 

[JimD]

Got plenty of decals, what clutch do you need springs for--an SS (six shoe) or the 9 spring Draggin Skin. Let me know the engine you are putting the clutch on so I can tell you the best spring to use. There 5 different springs of the SS clutch. We offer light shoes and heavy shoes depending on application and the shoes can be mixed as long as you do it evenly. I put pictures on the site but not smart enough and too old to learn. Most of the time if you write me direct I can attach a picture to my e-mails. Jim@maxtorque.com

 

[greenkidd]

Wow Jim, thanks! I'll work on it this week.