Torque Converter, low to high?

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Bigbuck

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The guy at the repair shop told me I could switch the setting on my TC to get a little more speed.Took the cover off and I see low and high,but no real mark as to which one it is on.Can I change this and get a little more speed?
I can post pic if needed.

Thanks
Rick
 

Kaptain Krunch

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I believe adjusting the driven spring only dictates how soon the secondary starts to shift, i dont think it would affect top speed (but i may be wrong).

To actually adjust it i believe you just change which hole the spring goes into, or at least thats how it is on my sled.
 

freakboy

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hey looking at it right now does it have a spring if so if its yellow its sticking in the one hole in the middle... so i think kaptian is right that you just move it hole to hole.
 

Bigbuck

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Here is a top pic.If I try to take it apart to adjust to different hole will spring tension cause it to let loose,and uncoil ?
Should I even be messing with this?

Thanks to all for the help.
 

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Kaptain Krunch

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I would think a weaker spring setting would allow it to shift faster, and a higher spring setting would make it shift slower. I would say try both, since its not a hard thing to do, and see which you like.
 

porsche930dude

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It will spring out when you take the clip off. Its not hard to get back on just keep your other hand on the pulley as you take the hub off so that you know how much tention and at what position it should be set back on at. But do it slow and pay close attention because if you put it back together on the wrong hump with the wrong amount of tention it will be messed up. Take a marker and mark all the parts so you know how they were just incase. It wont change top speed unless its not fully winding out as it is. which is possible if your a big guy. The settings change the rpm at which it winds out but that also translates to when it winds out according to the amount of load. Youll probrobly want it on #1
 

nerfo

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Think of moving the spring from low to high as changing the shift points in a regular automotive automatic transmission. When you have the spring in the lowest hole, it has the least amount of tension and therefore, "shifts" sooner. If it were moved to the "high" hole, it would not begin "shifting" until the engine was revving a higher RPM. What RPM is that? No way of knowing without trying. I really doubt you'd ever get more top speed, but by putting the spring in the highest hole, you might be able to take atvantage of the engines torque for more time before it began to change ratios, meaning you might get to top speed a little quicker... always good! This might be a trial and error type of deal. Porsche930dude is right though, that little hub IS under tension, so be careful to hold the hub while removing it and take note of how much and in which direction it wants to turn as spring tension is released.
 

slideways

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Increasing the tension will keep your DRIVEN pulley at together longer throughout the rpm scale. Think if it like a lawnmower drive pulley system.

3" Engine Pulley ---> 6" Trans pulley = Slow speed/high torque

5" Engine Pulley ---> 4" Trans pully = High speed/no torque

The purpose of the torque convertor is to get you all of that in one unit. It starts off in the first situation and then as the rpms and speed go up the springs relax in the Driven pulley and it converts to the second situation.

Tightening the spring will make you accelerate faster but possibly never reach top speed because the driver will never unload completely. Loosening it will cause poor takeoff and burnt belts but will eventually give you top end speed.

I put the high stall spring on my Manco Dingo and with me in it (250lbs) and a bone stock 5.5hp Tecumseh it will chirp the tires on acceleration because of the increased torque/gear ratio.


BTW: You'll need an extra set of hands to reinstall that c-clip and outer hub. Trust me it is a MOTHER to get it all lined up and back in place under that spring tension. Also dont mess up the material on the fixed sheave post or else the moveable sheave will never come off of it (i.e. mushrooming it pounding on it trying to get it off)
 

ed1380

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adjusting the spring will not change the final ratio. just how fast it gets there
 

slideways

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Exactly.. just a tweaking to find optimum acceleration for the particular torque curve where it engages.
 

mike75925

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basically, low tension = shortshifting, higher tension = redline shift if you know what i mean. the longer you keep it in a given gear, the higher the top speed. if racing straights or longer tracks, more tension. if short tracking low to medium. i thought of modifying my driven's 'ramps' to get it to have actual gears (semi auto). i will need more rpm first. by getting bigger pulleys front and rear you can get higher speeds/torque. i also thought of welding material onto my pulleys for this reason.
 

Thunderbird SC

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I have changed my 6inch 20 series a few times, its not easy but can be done with needle nose pliers and a flat blade screwdriver. If you do take it apart its not hard to assemble but a second pair of hands is recommended. Yes you can buy different springs as well. Also consider changing your driver spring colors. I have the color/weight rpm chart for the garter springs from comet just gotta find it again. Also there were 3 different weights that could be used to change engagement rpm even further.
 
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