To strip or not to strip. Paint question.

[BaconBitRacing]

When you restore a kart, do you bring it down to bare metal, or just sand? Any additional costs to doing it one way or the other? Just seeing what others do before I prep and paint mine. No paint or primer has been bought yet, but I’ll be using Rusto-Oleum.

 

[Denny]

Bare metal!

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Saw-Glu will work for you!

 

[Functional Artist]

When painting, the prep work is 98% of the job

IMO it's not essential to remove 100% of the old paint if its still in good shape
...but, any paint that is peeling, loose or bubbly has to go

The most important thing is to make sure the surface of the material, is as smooth as possible
...or many times you will be able to see the imperfection or transition (from old paint to the bare metal) right thru the new paint

 

[BaconBitRacing]

When painting, the prep work is 98% of the job

IMO it's not essential to remove 100% of the old paint if its still in good shape
...but, any paint that is peeling, loose or bubbly has to go

The most important thing is to make sure the surface of the material, is as smooth as possible
...or many times you will be able to see the imperfection or transition (from old paint to the bare metal) right thru the new paint

Looks like I need a lot of prep... I'll probably strip it all the way, the paint is spotty at best.

 

[Karttekk]

When painting, the prep work is 98% of the job

IMO it's not essential to remove 100% of the old paint if its still in good shape
...but, any paint that is peeling, loose or bubbly has to go

The most important thing is to make sure the surface of the material, is as smooth as possible
...or many times you will be able to see the imperfection or transition (from old paint to the bare metal) right thru the new paint

Agreed. I usually scrape any loose or flaking paint, featheredge what is still adhering then go with two or three coats of Rustoleum 2X paint & primer. This way there's no need to use additional primer. I remove what parts I can before prepping like the pedals, seats, wheels, steering wheel, engine, cables. Detailed masking is important too. Makes for a cleaner looking end result.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-2x-ultra-cover

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Agreed. I usually scrape any loose or flaking paint, featheredge what is still adhering then go with two or three coats of Rustoleum 2X paint & primer. This way there's no need to use additional primer. I remove what parts I can before prepping like the pedals, seats, wheels, steering wheel, engine, cables. Detailed masking is important too. Makes for a cleaner looking end result.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-2x-ultra-cover

I'll be doing separate primer on mine, I don't believe in paint primer combination, but I will use Rust-Oleum 2X. Every thing is coming off the kart anyway, so it be fully stripped down. Thanks Karttekk.

 

[Karttekk]

I'll be doing separate primer on mine, I don't believe in paint primer combination, but I will use Rust-Oleum 2X. Every thing is coming off the kart anyway, so it be fully stripped down. Thanks Karttekk.

I used their Spring Green on this heap. You don't need 2X if you're using primer, maybe go with their regular finish.

 

[Master Hack]

Clean, degrease, sand and repeat!

 

[Denny]

Degrease, clean, degrease then sand. Nothing ruins a finish quicker than fisheyes and poor prep. I like to spray Rustoleum through a spray gun with a hardener.

 

[Master Hack]

Rustoleum through a spray gun with a hardener

Rustoleum with a hardner? Never heard of a compatible hardner, but l don’t use rustoleum much. Please explain….

 

[Denny]

Yup, Majick makes a hardener for it. You can get it at tractor supply. Van Sickle makes a hardener that is compatible also. You can get that at ACE.

 

[Master Hack]

So, does that improve durability or make it brittle?

 

[Denny]

So, does that improve durability or make it brittle?

Much improved durability. I like to scuff steel real well first, 220 or coarser. Lay down 2 medium heavy coats of primer. Let it sit for a week, sand smooth with 320 wet to fill pitting from rust and smooth out. 2 more lighter coats of primer and sit for another week. Scuff with 400 wet and then paint.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Time for thread revival. @Denny, any paint suggestions? I quite like the look of gloss apple red, but I can only get it in 2X or gimmicky 5 different spray modes. What red do you run? I got Purple Power degreaser, I’m planning on ordering rust oleum sandable red primer, Dawn dish soap for cleaning?

 

[Denny]

Rustoleum primer means you topcoat with Rustoleum paint only!

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Rustoleum primer means you topcoat with Rustoleum paint only!

Thanks, I understand I’m just overwhelmed by the number of choices. I’m confused pretty easily…

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

 

[madprofessor]

I can only get it in 2X

Unless I 'm missing something obvious on the spraycan label, 2X only means they're saying there's 2 times as much Rustoleum paint in the can. I've used only the 2X for that very reason, not trying to build a show kart. BTW: Anybody want to buy a nearly- (but not yet) finished weird big gokart? I've gotten too old.
If not trying to build a show kart, and you want to just save time and effort, coarse sandpaper is your friend. If you want a non-Sherlock-Holmes-magnifying-glass smooth finish real quick, just tear it down hard with some really coarse sandpaper, do it again with smoother enough paper to feather the edges of the old paint, and finish with some pretty mild paper to hide the transitions from old paint to the new paint.
Primer all of it very well (anybody voting for self-etching primer on bare metal?), and spraycan it overall for the finish. You can wet-sand with 600 grit and a garden hose if you want to for a final coat, then final spray and maybe a couple of clearcoats to protect it.
I don't have that kind of patience, much less the energy.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Unless I 'm missing something obvious on the spraycan label, 2X only means they're saying there's 2 times as much Rustoleum paint in the can. I've used only the 2X for that very reason, not trying to build a show kart. BTW: Anybody want to buy a nearly- (but not yet) finished weird big gokart? I've gotten too old.
If not trying to build a show kart, and you want to just save time and effort, coarse sandpaper is your friend. If you want a non-Sherlock-Holmes-magnifying-glass smooth finish real quick, just tear it down hard with some really coarse sandpaper, do it again with smoother enough paper to feather the edges of the old paint, and finish with some pretty mild paper to hide the transitions from old paint to the new paint.
Primer all of it very well (anybody voting for self-etching primer on bare metal?), and spraycan it overall for the finish. You can wet-sand with 600 grit and a garden hose if you want to for a final coat, then final spray and maybe a couple of clearcoats to protect it.
I don't have that kind of patience, much less the energy.

Hey madprofessor, welcome “back”. If I take a little looksie I see a paint+primer on the can.
I’ve decided on everything in terms of paint, thanks a ton everybody!