dowies
New member
I'm planning on doing a test ride today. No brakes or chain idler yet, but I can take it for an easy test ride. I'll try to get some video footage as well.
The lightest cheapest reverse trike? 40lbs $350.00
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SpyGuy
Hooligan
I think you should be okay with the riding position, but remember to put something between you and the engine, as your tendency is to lean back once you're rolling (inertia, and all that physics jazz ....). Don't want to get branded by the cylinder burning holes in the back of your shirt ... As for moving the CG, all you'd really need to do is drill a set of holes through the frame rails for the seat to slide up a notch or two. Pull the bolts, slide the seat forward or back, put the bolts back in.
On the brake issue, I was about to say put a disc on the jackshaft, but then realized you didn't have one ... Is that rear wheel set up to accept a disc brake? Perhaps a pocketbike or goped disc brake setup? (I suppose if you REALLY wanted to push things, some of the pb's have hydraulic brakes that grab like SuperGlue ... might want to look into those.)
Slightly off-topic: What's the black motorcycle in the background on some of your pictures? Looks like an "old's kool" bobber, maybe Harley or Triumph.
anderkart
Moderator
Congrats on an amazing build. I was thinking this might be a good candidate for a lanyard style kill switch/emergency brake activation system. Seems like hitting a big unexpected bump at speed could easly launch you right off. (especially while high speed cornering) Motorcycles have the tank and frame to use your legs help lock you on. Their seat/handlebars and rider position are also laid out beter to hold yourself on with your arms, but it seems like you've just prety much just got gravity working for ya here... I dig the looks of your solo seat but a snugly fitted race kart seat would solve all these possible issues.
Russell ATV
New member
The steering is very similiar to some high end Tad-pole trike bicycles. The advantage the bike has is large diameter tires (so the CG was much lower than the axles) and much slower speeds (typically). I tried almost the exact same thing about 3 years ago, but with hand grips tied directly to the steeringarm. Even with a dramatic amount of Caster and Kingpin Inclination (KPI of 45), the twin pistol grip steering was very "nervous" at speed. Perhaps the dampers and additional friction elements will prevent that.
I am curious to see how your testing will go. Wear a helmet if you plan on going over 20MPH, as this arrangement may be prown to flip over.
As for others wishing to learn a bit more about steering dynamics, have a look at this website: http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/suspension.html
I am curious to see how your testing will go. Wear a helmet if you plan on going over 20MPH, as this arrangement may be prown to flip over.
As for others wishing to learn a bit more about steering dynamics, have a look at this website: http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/suspension.html
dowies
New member
I did a few test runs yesterday. This rig handles great at high speed, and high speed cornering. I'll get some video footage as soon as I can.
My motor is running great, but it's really hard to start. Even when it's hot. I need the choke on, hot or cold, and the throttle open half way. This makes it really challenging to start because the clutch wants to immediatly engage. Once it's running for about thirty seconds, hot or cold, everything works fine. Midrange and high end is good as well.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for dialing in the idle jet or idle inrichner screw? I've read that I should drill out the idle jet to .024" or .025". Has anyone done this before?
My motor is running great, but it's really hard to start. Even when it's hot. I need the choke on, hot or cold, and the throttle open half way. This makes it really challenging to start because the clutch wants to immediatly engage. Once it's running for about thirty seconds, hot or cold, everything works fine. Midrange and high end is good as well.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for dialing in the idle jet or idle inrichner screw? I've read that I should drill out the idle jet to .024" or .025". Has anyone done this before?
1992suburban
I wanna go FAST!!
those wheels WONTLAST at high speed..
WE ALL HAVE TRIED THEM
safety sake GET HUBS with GOOD BEARINGS
WE ALL HAVE TRIED THEM
safety sake GET HUBS with GOOD BEARINGS
T-man
New member
if you are thinking of a brake set-up this might be an idea, in these pics you can see that the caliper has ben placed on the sprocket so it acts as the mover and stoper.
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dowies
New member
I set up a band brake on the clutch, but I'm not happy with it. It stops the kart, but not quick enough. I like your idea of using a mechanical caliper on the rear sprocket. I had thought of this in the past, but your pictures really help out. Do those mechanical calipers float, or are they fixed? Right now my rear sprocket has .030" run-out, so I wouldn't want the mechanical caliper to pulse when stopping.
T-man
New member
Im not sure on that caliper if it floats or not but I'll find out soon because I ordered one for my kart.
1992suburban
I wanna go FAST!!
my rotor floats on mine..
dowies
New member
That was the ticket. I drilled open the idle jet from .015" to .020". Big difference, but still started a little hard. I opened up the idle jet a second time to .0225". Now it's perfect. When warm, she starts with one pull. Idles nicely at a low rpm as well with no issues. The motor pulls well both low and high end. I've read that for a modified airbox and exhaust the idle jet should be opened to .024" - .025". I just errored on the smaller side due to my stock exhaust and airbox.
Next step. Get a caliper on the rear sprocket. Right now the band brake is working alright, but this rig needs more stopping power. If you have a picture or spec of a mechanical floating caliper, please show me what you got.
Next step. Get a caliper on the rear sprocket. Right now the band brake is working alright, but this rig needs more stopping power. If you have a picture or spec of a mechanical floating caliper, please show me what you got.
Rickracer
RM250 Race Kart Driver
My concern with a sprocket mounted caliper is chain lube. How do you keep the chain properly lubed without fouling your brake pads with it????
dowies
New member
That 1939 Flathead is in my 1931 Ford Roadster project. Too many projects going on in my garage.
dowies
New member
I actually thought about this as well. Centrifugal force usually pulls the chain lube to the O.D. of the sprocket though. The Middle portion of a sprocket is usually clean. However, that won't keep chain lube from getting on the inside O.D. portion of the caliper. I can buy a mechanical caliper for around $26.00 so It will be interesting to see how it works.
dowies
New member
I updated this post with additional pictures and video. See the first post on page 1.
dowies
New member
jr dragster T
New member
Pretty cool man!
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