IceMan198753
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internet websites would really help and names of parts! thanks
T-Bucket style Go Kart
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Doc Sprocket
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Start by examining the workings of a lawn tractor. Google is your friend. IIRC, ecdistributing.com sells race prepped Peerless 700's ready to go, and accessories to. Hit up heymow.com for related info. Note- they are a community DEDICATED to RACING, and only in sanctioned mower racing events. Lurk, but do NOT post. If you let it slip that you are building something other than a proper race mower, they will crucify you over there.
IceMan198753
New member
SO if i get a race ready Peerless, would that hold up to what I'm making? Or would a stock one get me to 30 MPH?
IceMan198753
New member
Is IIRC a website? or what? Sorry for the dumb questions
DS13
Annoying the Neighbors!!!
I didn't know for a while but then I figured it out... it means if I recall correctly... there are some others they use too.
Doc Sprocket
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Get one that is race-prepped, or get a stock one and prep it yourself. I would not take ANY stock mower component to 30 MPH. IIRC stands for If I Recall Correctly.
Sorry- that was EC carburetors. Look here- http://www.eccarburetors.com/store/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=33
Sorry- that was EC carburetors. Look here- http://www.eccarburetors.com/store/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=33
IceMan198753
New member
IceMan198753
New member
So i guess its on to the frame. What should I use. What would be the strongest. AND I have a MIG welder and stick welder.
OzFab
Well-known member
For authenticity, I would use something like 3" x 1.5" RHS for the main rails bent (or cut & welded) to the desired shape, with 1" round cross members
Doc Sprocket
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Yeah- Maybe a bit smaller to not totally butcher the scale appearance. 2.5" x 1"? See what you can find. Depending on what you have in mind for the frontend, "authentic" framerails curve downward ahead of the front axle.
IceMan198753
New member
What gauge or thickness for the tubing?
IceMan198753
New member
well i want it to be fairly close, but i don't want to make it hard on me down the road for steering.
IceMan198753
New member
I can get 2.5x1 (12 foot long) 14 GA for 50 bucks! Is that an ok price?
Doc Sprocket
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Pricing varies regionally, so I don't know if that's a good deal for you- but it would do the job.
IceMan198753
New member
1x3 is a little cheaper and a heavier gauge,might go that route
OzFab
Well-known member
You don't want to go too heavy on the guage; the thicker the material, the heavier it will be (weight wise). 14ga will be plenty.
"It's better to use large thin wall material than small thick wall"
The main reason I suggested 3x1.5 was to provide a good surface area to mount pillow blocks for the rear axle. If you decide to use flange bearings, that point is irrelevant.
"It's better to use large thin wall material than small thick wall"
The main reason I suggested 3x1.5 was to provide a good surface area to mount pillow blocks for the rear axle. If you decide to use flange bearings, that point is irrelevant.
zbuck
New member
No problem using a V shaft engine. Run the belt, using EC clutch setup to a 90 degree angle gear box drive/or a Peerless 700 trany. then run a chain to the rear axle. If it was me, I would use a triangle frame fabed out of tube.crazyman
New member
You could narrow a chevette or mini truck axle and put the yoke straight up (vertical) with a sprocket bolted onto it. Then have the chain run to a vertical jackshaft, then run the other end of the jackshaft to the chain that runs under the body to the clutch. Two belt clutches might work better for transfer of power to the jackshaft as you would'nt have to worry about chain droop (side loading).
DeathStarr89
Loose Nut
You might run into lubrication issues with the rear in that orientation.
IceMan198753
New member
Thank you ya'll for all your input. It is very helpful. I think I am going to do the 700 tranny idea.
Now I just need money. I will get some pics of the engine up as soon as I get home this weekend (I travel for work).
What would be a good dimension for the main frame? I would like to sit behind the engine. But not make it to long.
Now I just need money. I will get some pics of the engine up as soon as I get home this weekend (I travel for work).
What would be a good dimension for the main frame? I would like to sit behind the engine. But not make it to long.
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