Streaker Build: Start to Finish

[Kentucky Boy]

Thought I would start a build thread for my old Streaker since it's almost done. Bought this off of CL for $100. Had been wrecked front end was tore off and had the front end of a golf kart welded on. Steering was terrible, brake non functional, exhaust was broken off and the gas tank was damaged. This sucker was so heavy with the golf kart parts being very bulky and heavy. I plan on stripping it down, repairing the front end, new wheels, tires, predator hemi (built), and new paint. The project is almost done so I'll post pics from start to finish. First pic is after I picked it up. Pretty nasty.

I was lucky in that it did have a salvageable torque converter on it.

Stripped it down. Trashed the old golf kart wheels, tires and hubs. You can see the front end that was heavily welded on. This will be cut off and I will reconstruct the front end as best I can.

 

[MrC.]

Keep posting. Thats a great looking kart.
MrC.

 

[Hellion]

I don't recognize that type of rear axle setup as a Streaker. The frame has a gap in it, flanges welded in and the axle then sort of bisects the frame. A good way of lowering the center of gravity...

You were right to take photos of this kart when you did.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I agree. I really like this frame. The engine is in the dead center and really distributes the weight evenly. After I removed the broken steel tube off the front, I made a new one. Ordered the spindle brackets and spindles, wheel spacers and bushings.

Got the spindles in as well as the front bumper/ seat back weldment from go powers ports com. Welded it all up. Has to modify the front piece to fit correctly.

Cleaned up all the welds.

Sanded and primed it so it wouldn't rust.

 

[Hellion]

Somewhere between post #6 and #7, the kart changed color. What happened to the original (as-bought) black? Can you describe what you did?

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I just gave it a quick sanding and primed the whole frame grey to prevent it from rusting while I work on it some more.

 

[Hellion]

Don't be shy--please tell us the type and/or brand of primer paint you used. Has it met with your satisfaction?

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I used Rustoleum grey primer fast dry. Just a quick spray to cover the bare metal. After I get done with the fabrication I'll take it down to bare metal and really focus on the preps for final prime and paint. I know it may be very helpful to some people if I include details about the products I used for my build so I will try to include those details in my text. I am very happy with the primer.

I wanted to move the seat back for some more leg room. I used some angle iron to fasten the four seat mount brackets together, then cut all the welds holding them on the frame and removed them still attached to the jig. Used an angle grinder to remove the old welds. I then place the jig back on the frame, about 2" back from the original position then welded them back on to the frame. This gave me the ability to have my seat all the way back. Had the guys at Metals and More here in BG KY cut me a new piece of sheet metal for my floor pan. Welded the new floor pan on. Also reattached the steering shaft to the frame. Also cut of the guide tabs for the throttle control rod, repositioned them on the frame since I'm using a different throttle set up for my 22mm Mikuni carb. Then reprimed the frame.

This kart came with a 10" disc brake. I want to run smaller tires and the 10" brake disc was just too big. I ordered an 8" disc. To make the smaller disc work will require me to cut off the caliper bracket and move it back 1".

And here are some pics of the brake bracket modifications. Had clearance issues with the brake caliper so I cut out a relief area from the wheel bearing mount brackets. Made new supports for the caliper bracket from some flat square stock, and round bar. Had to put the axle on with the new disc to help with aligning the caliper bracket. Turned out pretty good. Lines up with the disc when it's assembled. This will give me more ground clearance as far as my brake disc is concerned.

Brake bracket mods. This thing is not coming off.

And one more showing the alignment.

Here's everything mocked up. Should be plenty of stopping power.

I noticed the brake caliper is aluminum. Thought it would be cool to polish it. So I used a wire wheel on my grinder to remove all the old paint. Then sanded it with 220 grit, then 360, 500, 800 then 1000. Hit it with a 3000 grit buffing pad then polished with some never dull. This mod alone is good for at least 3/4 hp I think.

 

[mckutzy]

That looks good on the polish....

Can you post a pic on the side, with the linkage and caliper...
It looks like it will have a bit limited ground clearance due to the actuation lever in the 9o'clock position as opposed to the 3, which would be high and clear everything... unless Iam missing a view...

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I'll get a pic of that for you later today. I have about two inches of clearance as it sits. I'm going to get some taller rear tires after I wear these out. It's a pavement only kart. I do ride it in my grass only because I know there are no holes or obstacles.

Ok I found a pic that may help show some clearance but not the best shot. Can get a much better one later when I get home.

Hey mckutzy...here's the view you requested of the caliper clearance.

 

[MrC.]

At least 3/4 hp.
looks great.
MrC.

 

[mckutzy]

Ahhh yes... I see...... It also has an L shaped rod to actuate the lever to clear the housing.....
Interesting.....

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I wanted to use the original Briggs and Stratton 5hp flathead. I went through it real good. Disassembled and rebuilt the carb, cleaned and repaired the damaged tank. Gas still leaked out of the fuel cap area because of some damage to the metal. Took the head off, cleaned the head and valves. They had a good seal when closed so I didn't remove them to lap. Put a new head gasket on it. My friend gave me a 22mm Keihin carb. I made an intake for it. Remove the gas tank/carb combo and ran a pulse fuel pump for the new carb. Removed the governor. Had to remove a broken exhaust screw from the block, then installed my new pipe and muffler. It runs great.

But just not enough speed for me. I had a coupon for a Predator 212 for $99. Couldn't resist any longer. So I bought a 212 Hemi for it.

 

[chancer]

But just not enough speed for me. I had a coupon for a Predator 212 for $99. Couldn't resist any longer. So I bought a 212 Hemi for it.

Hellion will be very disappointed!

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I still have it and keep it. It's a fun motor.

Also got a few more parts.

ARC billet rod and flywheel with 8 degree timing advance.

And here is my new Mikuni 22mm, intake and cheap but kinda cool air filter that will be going onto the hemi after break in.

Here's the one. I searched 38mm (1.5") red air filter.

I opened up my hemi to remove the low oil sensor and governor. I reused the plug that was in the block for the oil sensor wire. I cut the wire and pulled it out of the plug. Cleaned the plug out with rubbing alcohol the filled in the hole with JB weld. Let it cure overnight then reinstalled into the side of the block for a leak proof seal.

Then I removed the stock connecting rod and replaced it with the ARC billet rod. Checked the oil clearance with some Plasti gauge which is very easy to do. Clearance was good.

The new rod is awesome!

Here's are the stock parts that I removed.

Inspected my work, made sure everything was clean and oiled and sealed the motor back up. I then used some valve grinding compound to lap in the new ARC billet flywheel. Installed it and torqued to 65 ft pounds.

 

[MrC.]

You sir are not working fast enough. Get off the couch and build that kart.

Honestly its coming alone great. I hope you post a video of it smoking the tires.
MrC.

 

[chancer]

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
I used a 3/8 bolt to plug the hole from the low oil sensor, but I did use the O-ring from the original.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I'll post some info and pics of the new wheel/tire combo for the front and rear tomorrow. But for now here is a pic of the new exhaust header and screw in muffler. The stock muffler had to go.

I bought some aluminum tri-star wheels for the front and back. Azusa I believe. Front wheels are 5"x 3.5" with 4.10/3.50/5 slick tires made by some dude named Cheng Shin. Two part rims with tubes. They fit nicely on the spindles with a 3/4" nylon bushing behind them and I have a 1/4" aluminum spacer between the nut and wheel.

For the rear I went with a 6"x4" tri-star. Tires are from TSC. Hi run 13/5.00x6 slicks. These are pretty good tires and seem to grip well and I can slide them on pavement easily. These wheels are made to lock on to a 1" to 3/4" step down live axle. They are held on with a key, and a nut. Behind the wheel I'm running two piece aluminum locking collars to lock in the key in the wheel. All secured with some blue Loctite.

I got new tie rods and ends and installed a new tie rod arm for the steering shaft.

The stock steering wheel had flex in it because it's plastic. I ordered a new chrome steel steering wheel.

And here is the new steering wheel. Much better than plastic. Nice rubber grip.

So I was at an antique store and came across a nice old gas tank that came off an 8 hp concrete mixer. I thought it would be an awesome tank to use on my go kart so I bought it for $10. I pressure checked it and it had no leaks. I configured it under my front steering rod.

 

[chancer]

I like it!

 

[Kentucky Boy]

Since I'm going to use a remote tank I had to buy a pulse fuel pump. I bought a Mikuni pump. Ran a line from the tank to the pump then from the pump to the carb. I also opted for a return line back to the tank. I had to drill a hole in the top of the tank. I then installed a brass fitting and used Steel Stick epoxy to seal it all up. I also drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the engine block for the pulse fitting to run the pump.

I picked up a primer bulb for a boat. Spliced it in the fuel line to prime all the fuel system when needed. This addition is a must I believe.

I picked up some rubber diamond plate from the auto part store. It's made for a truck bed but I cut it to fit my go kart floor.

Here is the original Briggs flathead all mocked up with the new fuel pump, new 22mm Mikuni carb and the custom intake manifold that I made.

I was done with all the frame mods, fuel system and engine were done, wheel, tires and brakes all done. All mocked up ready to test.