Steering Question
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If its the blue kart that you talking about...
Didn't you just have it powder coated or painted? This could be your problem because I know paint and powder coat have a tendency to make big holes smaller, lol.
If that isn't the case I would disconnect the tierods and see where its binding, spindles or shaft (could even be the rod ends, but i doubt it). Then try greasing the steering shaft or spindles... Good luck
Didn't you just have it powder coated or painted? This could be your problem because I know paint and powder coat have a tendency to make big holes smaller, lol.
If that isn't the case I would disconnect the tierods and see where its binding, spindles or shaft (could even be the rod ends, but i doubt it). Then try greasing the steering shaft or spindles... Good luck
If its the blue kart that you talking about...
Didn't you just have it powder coated or painted? This could be your problem because I know paint and powder coat have a tendency to make big holes smaller, lol.
If that isn't the case I would disconnect the tierods and see where its binding, spindles or shaft (could even be the rod ends, but i doubt it). Then try greasing the steering shaft or spindles... Good luck
Yeah, that's the one.
I was extremely careful when i painted it and I have also greased the the shaft and the tie rod ends. I'm sort of stumped.
That’s all the stock Murray kart parts right? I can’t see it not having good or at least decent steering geometry. You didn’t make the frame longer or wider. Just a bigger engine, batt box, and pedal placement right? They are the stock front wheels too aren’t they? It always live axel right?
Do the wheels turn ok with the front end off the ground?
Did both spindles turn freely without the tie rods connected?
Did the steering wheel turn freely without the tie rods connected?
Theo’s right that the bell crank/pitman arm looks a little long, but to me it also looks like the spindle arms aren’t at the right angle to the stub or long enough for that bell crank/pitman arm. This is all coming from the pictures so it’s hard to tell.
Could be too much positive caster. Does she drive strait as an arrow without any effort, and when you do turn it straiten back out easy?
Honestly, I feel like I’m grasping at straws here, but I really don’t think a Murray kart would have this issue unless something was damaged or changed. I’m very confused
Do the wheels turn ok with the front end off the ground?
Did both spindles turn freely without the tie rods connected?
Did the steering wheel turn freely without the tie rods connected?
Theo’s right that the bell crank/pitman arm looks a little long, but to me it also looks like the spindle arms aren’t at the right angle to the stub or long enough for that bell crank/pitman arm. This is all coming from the pictures so it’s hard to tell.
Could be too much positive caster. Does she drive strait as an arrow without any effort, and when you do turn it straiten back out easy?
Honestly, I feel like I’m grasping at straws here, but I really don’t think a Murray kart would have this issue unless something was damaged or changed. I’m very confused
That’s all the stock Murray kart parts right? I can’t see it not having good or at least decent steering geometry. You didn’t make the frame longer or wider. Just a bigger engine, batt box, and pedal placement right? They are the stock front wheels too aren’t they? It always live axel right?
1)Do the wheels turn ok with the front end off the ground?
2)Did both spindles turn freely without the tie rods connected?
3)Did the steering wheel turn freely without the tie rods connected?
Theo’s right that the bell crank/pitman arm looks a little long, but to me it also looks like the spindle arms aren’t at the right angle to the stub or long enough for that bell crank/pitman arm. This is all coming from the pictures so it’s hard to tell.
Could be too much positive caster. Does she drive strait as an arrow without any effort, and when you do turn it straiten back out easy?
Honestly, I feel like I’m grasping at straws here, but I really don’t think a Murray kart would have this issue unless something was damaged or changed. I’m very confused
I'll do my best to answer all questions.
The steering parts are not stock Murray parts. They were all ordered off of the net. I have converted it from 2 seater to a single seater.
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
Do you think if I lengthen the spindle arms or shortened the bell crank that might help? I will try anything that might help although shortening the bell crank might be the last thing I do.
Take a piece of 1"x1/4x3" and drill 2 holes 1 1/2 to 2" apart in this piece. Clamp it to the bell crank and now you can adjust up or down. Now you can see where can get your full throw at the spindles and on the steering shaft. You want as much turn on the steering wheel before it over locks. Also lengthen the tie rods so that they cross over on the bell crank, one on the back side and one on the front, this will give you ackerman.
Ok, well with all that answered it’s definitely a geometry issue. I don’t suppose you have the old spindles anymore? If you do, just look at them compared to the new ones. My stock Azusa spindles needed the steering arms lengthened. They were much too short. I would give Theo’s' idea a shot, if that doesn’t help try adding some reach to those spindle arms.
Do you remember the model name of the frame? Maybe someone will pull some measurements for you if they have them on hand.
Do you remember the model name of the frame? Maybe someone will pull some measurements for you if they have them on hand.
I am going to try Theo's spindle trick.
As far as the frame, it was laying in a scrap pile with no spindles, no floor pan, nothing basocally but the frame and the steering rod.
Well I did some hunting and I think the arms are your problem.. If you look closely at these pictures of murrays I found on the net, it looks like they have a very upwards angle for the steering arms. I know the Azusa spindles are nothing like this (I have them on mine too, but modded to work). Hope this works out for you
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