Slowly but surely happening. Stupid powerful Manco Street Dingo 285
- Thread starter Bmr4Karts
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snowjob
Member
I love this build, but am I close in guesstimating you have a bit more than $2k in the drive and battery components?
So I guess people don't really take these karts as fast as I'm going. Top speed was 47mph before, changed the gearing and hit ~53mph today but was running out of room. Let's just say over 50mph is sketchy on this guy. I wanted to avoid getting a race kart chassis due to the lack of ground clearance but that appears to be the new plan. If that does happen I'll install the dual 60v brushless motors in the Manco and keep it as a simpler yard kart.
Each individual electrical component was right at $500 so $1500 for those three. Also, the battery last no more than 20 minutes driving as hard as I can in my hooning area. I'm sure I could get over an hour if I putted around at 25mph.
Well over another $1k for everything else including the trivial $50 I paid for the actual rolling kart. (Gears, chains, brakes, race wheels and tires, metal, several welding spools, nuts and bolts, wiring, connectors, crimping tools, etc)
Looking back getting a nice rolling race kart with working hydraulic brakes for $800 or so would have been a better option. But you live and you learn.
Each individual electrical component was right at $500 so $1500 for those three. Also, the battery last no more than 20 minutes driving as hard as I can in my hooning area. I'm sure I could get over an hour if I putted around at 25mph.
Well over another $1k for everything else including the trivial $50 I paid for the actual rolling kart. (Gears, chains, brakes, race wheels and tires, metal, several welding spools, nuts and bolts, wiring, connectors, crimping tools, etc)
Looking back getting a nice rolling race kart with working hydraulic brakes for $800 or so would have been a better option. But you live and you learn.
My original gear ratio was 20/53 which had a very strong take off and topped out around 47mph. Yesterday I tried 26/53 which lost a lot of take off but still sped up decently and had plenty of power to get up my hill. It topped out at 53mph before I ran out of room, had plenty of power and rpms left but like I said before, it was sketchy. Today I'm going to take the gearing the other way and try 18/53 because stronger acceleration is a safer thrill that a higher top speed. That should still top out near 43 mph and will get there quicker.
I think I mentioned before that the 4 gauge CCA phase wires were getting hot so I just finished upgrading to 0 gauge pure copper. With the original 20/53 gearing the top speed increased 10%, from 47mph to 52mph. Top speed declines as the battery dies since my max voltage does not hit my programmed set limit of 5000 rpm. Even with the pack at 3.6v per cell I can do 45mph and I was drag racing cars for about 10 minutes, lol.
So my Ev Manco Dingo has reached the end of its journey. It does very well at straight line speed with lots of stability, but cornering, proper feet placement and room for more batteries are features it tremendously lacks.
I just picked up a 2008 Gillard Race Kart Chassis and it will be my new street bashing mobile. I had fears about ground clearance but it rolls down slope next to my house just fine. We'll see how well it goes back up.
My plan is to raise the voltage and raise my gear ratio so I get even more acceleration without losing top end.
I just picked up a 2008 Gillard Race Kart Chassis and it will be my new street bashing mobile. I had fears about ground clearance but it rolls down slope next to my house just fine. We'll see how well it goes back up.
My plan is to raise the voltage and raise my gear ratio so I get even more acceleration without losing top end.
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Smorgasford
New member
Bmr4Karts, your builds are very cool and have inspired my build! I'm just finishing welding up my own chassis of my own design with electric motor propulsion in mind from the start. For instance, I've made space for two 9" x 15" batteries on either side. I'll be putting in the axle, spindles, cross beams, etc soon but I have a question for you in regards to the whole electrical system:
If you were to do it all over again, would you still choose the same setup?
Kelly KLS96501-8080h controller
Motenergy ME1611 motor (custom version of ME1012)
LG Chem 16s 45ah battery
It appears that there are different Kelly model controllers that may also work (for instance the KLS72701-8080I) and I'm sure there are tons of other battery choices out there. And why go with a 96V controller instead of 72V?
Thanks for any input you can provide!
Brent
If you were to do it all over again, would you still choose the same setup?
Kelly KLS96501-8080h controller
Motenergy ME1611 motor (custom version of ME1012)
LG Chem 16s 45ah battery
It appears that there are different Kelly model controllers that may also work (for instance the KLS72701-8080I) and I'm sure there are tons of other battery choices out there. And why go with a 96V controller instead of 72V?
Thanks for any input you can provide!
Brent
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I like all my electronics.
The only thing I would change is up the current rating of the controller from 500amps to 600amps. I went with 96v controller because my motor can handle 96v. If I put this drivetrain into another vehicle with more room I may up the voltage. If anything I wish I had more voltage now so I could get the motor up to 5K rpm. I know someone that this is running over 100v in a similar motor and spinning it to 8K rpm. Geared to only go 60 something mph so it has tons of acceleration.
The only thing I would change is up the current rating of the controller from 500amps to 600amps. I went with 96v controller because my motor can handle 96v. If I put this drivetrain into another vehicle with more room I may up the voltage. If anything I wish I had more voltage now so I could get the motor up to 5K rpm. I know someone that this is running over 100v in a similar motor and spinning it to 8K rpm. Geared to only go 60 something mph so it has tons of acceleration.
Smorgasford
New member
Great to hear, that all makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply.
I've read the manual for the KLS-8080H and gone over the wiring diagram. Some things are a little hard to make out on the diagram and the manual doesn't have as many details as I'd like. Do you happen to have a component list (or at least size that works) that you used when putting your system together? I'm a mechanical guy and I want to make sure I don't screw up the little details!
- Main contactor
- Main fuse
- Precharge resistor
- Diode
- Forward/reverse switch
- Brake switch
- Foot switch (is this needed with a 3 wire throttle pedal?)
- Anything else special that I've missed and will need?
Thanks!
I've read the manual for the KLS-8080H and gone over the wiring diagram. Some things are a little hard to make out on the diagram and the manual doesn't have as many details as I'd like. Do you happen to have a component list (or at least size that works) that you used when putting your system together? I'm a mechanical guy and I want to make sure I don't screw up the little details!
- Main contactor
- Main fuse
- Precharge resistor
- Diode
- Forward/reverse switch
- Brake switch
- Foot switch (is this needed with a 3 wire throttle pedal?)
- Anything else special that I've missed and will need?
Thanks!
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Wiring Diagram.JPG
The Kelly controller comes with the precharge resistor and diode.
You want a contactor that is close to your battery voltage and is rated for your max battery amps. Mine is 48v 400amps and I'm running 60v through it.
Forward/reverse switch is a $5 single throw dc switch
You need another $5 switch for on and off.
Brake switch off amazon. it will have a spring to auto return. I bought one that is normally open.
Any 3 wire pedal for throttle.
You'll want an on/off/on switch for the 3 speed option if you choose to use that.
I use a circuit breaker as my main fuse and emergency disconnect.
You want a contactor that is close to your battery voltage and is rated for your max battery amps. Mine is 48v 400amps and I'm running 60v through it.
Forward/reverse switch is a $5 single throw dc switch
You need another $5 switch for on and off.
Brake switch off amazon. it will have a spring to auto return. I bought one that is normally open.
Any 3 wire pedal for throttle.
You'll want an on/off/on switch for the 3 speed option if you choose to use that.
I use a circuit breaker as my main fuse and emergency disconnect.
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