Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Functional Artist]

It was brought to my attention that:

1.) The way the center pilar is mounted to the dash bar could cause the dash bar to buckle (in a roll over)
...potentially injuring the driver
...&/or "pinning" the driver in the c*ck pit

2.) Looking around, that center pillar could get annoying (especially for a hole hour)

So, after a bit of thinkin' I removed the center pillar

...& installed a couple of A-pillars

* Notice how the A-pillars are connected to the side bars
...& now, pretty much independent of the dash bar

Ya get in thru the roof opening, just like an F-1 racer

 

[Denny]

You still need to triangulate the rear hoop.

 

[Functional Artist]

You still need to triangulate the rear hoop.

Hey Denny,

Duh!...Um...I mean...good idea
...BRB

 

[Master Hack]

Very nice! Don't forget to triangulate that rear hoop!

 

[Functional Artist]

Well, what do ya'all think of this solution?

I'm thinkin' about maybe addin' a 1/2 moon (~8" long x ~4" tall) "gussett" across the entire 5-way junction
Here is another view

Rear view

 

[Denny]

More better, but I’d rather see 2. I guess I’ll live and you might too?

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I would have done something more like this:

 

[Denny]

Yup take some of the stress off of that one joint. But he still ends up with 2 bars to nowhere.

 

[Master Hack]

More better

Mo Bedder, bumba$$ Yo didnt git no learnin in skool?

 

[Denny]

I know my naughts from naught=naught.

 

[Master Hack]

Waddabout yer knots and nots?

 

[Functional Artist]

I would have done something more like this:

View attachment 146847

Hey Ez,
I thought about it
...but, the rules require the roll bar braces to connect to the top of the roll bar

4 ROLL BAR
1. The roll bar must protect the driver's head/helmet in the event of a roll-over. It must be tall and wide enough to do this considering the full range of possible movement. (See drawing.)

2. The roll bar structure must be triangulated with at least three legs or panel equivalent. Triangulated bracing can be either forward or rearward.With three legs bracing must extend from the top of the roll bar and securely attach to the vehicle structure, with four legs, each of the braces must extend to within 4" of the top. Any roll bar that is constructed from more than one continuous piece must be reinforced and braced triangularly from all junctions/joints in addition to the top.

3. The roll bar structure must appear to be sturdy enough to withstand the vehicle being dropped, upside down, from an altitude of one foot, with the driver inside without failure. MAX 4' MIN 2' 4 WHEEL CYCLE-CAR TRICYCLE

4. The driver’s helmet must be below a straight line drawn from the top of the roll bar to the top of the highest structural point when the driver is securely belted in driving position. (see drawing)
P A G E 6

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is a quick mock up, with the swing arm

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I think this is cool as all get out, a great build and a really well done chronical of your ideas, thoughts and work.

How-eva'!! If I was the inspector with those rules in-hand I would get out my big red marker and go like this:

 

[Denny]

That’s what I think too.

 

[Functional Artist]

I think this is cool as all get out, a great build and a really well done chronical of your ideas, thoughts and work.

How-eva'!! If I was the inspector with those rules in-hand I would get out my big red marker and go like this:

View attachment 146873

That’s what I think too.

Hey guyz,

It was pretty clear that "that" was a weak spot, that is why I mentioned:

"I'm thinkin' about maybe addin' a 1/2 moon (~8" long x ~4" tall) "gusset" across the entire 5-way junction"

Kinda like this (8" x 4" x 1/8")

Positioned accross the junction, kinda like this

Welded in place, like this

IMO it looks pretty F'in "beefy"
...& now, I don't think ya could break 'er off...even if ya tried

 

[Functional Artist]

The original plan was to just weld the swing arm mounting bracket to the lower rear cross bar
...but, after thinkin' about it a bit more, I realized that there wouldn't be any way to adjust the angle of the rear wheel or "track" (if necessary)
...so, I came up with an adjustable solution

This way "if" the "track" of the rear wheel is "off" (shouldn't be)
...but, "if" it "is" we can now, add "shims" under the appropriate bolt

 

[Denny]

There’s a guy with a motor question. Could you give him a hand?

I like the plate idea just add some 1” welds on both sides of the tube about mid way between the top and bottom welds. Don’t want you to get hurt.

 

[Functional Artist]

Mono-e-Mono

A mono-shock for a mono-wheel

Another view

 

[Master Hack]

Purdy cool!