Sequoia Electrathon Racer

Functional Artist

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I got the hub back yesterday (with the 60T sprocket installed) :wai:
...& some "goodies" too :popcorn:

Thanks, T :cheers2:
SAM_3140 (1).JPG
It looks great :2guns:
...but, the box seems to have "took a beating" :ack2:
SAM_3136 (1).JPG
Thats a big 'ol gap :huh:
...wonder how much stuff "fell out"
...or was lost along the way? :unsure:
SAM_3137 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Got back ta workin' on Sequoia a bit :wai:

Installed the rear hub (w/60T sprocket)
SAM_3196 (2).JPG
Also, removed the motor & speed controller (for closer inspection)

The motor seems fine :thumbsup:
...but, it looks like the SC "took a hit" :furious2:
SAM_3197 (1).JPG
The first thing I noticed was this melting/heat damage.
Where the (green, blue & yellow) power wires, going to the motor, come out of the SC)
SAM_3199 (2).JPG
Lookin' inside, I noticed some dark/discoloration where the green power wire connects to the circuit board
SAM_3201 (1).JPG
Then, with just a little "bump" it "popped" right out :huh:
SAM_3202 (1).JPG
Here is the other side of the circuit board
SAM_3203 (1).JPG
The green wire connected to this hole (top right)
SAM_3204 (1).JPG
Also, noticed what looks like some heat damage under the "pad" for the yellow power wire (top left) :ack2:
SAM_3205 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Ouch, that looks like a coupla bux worth!
Hey T,

Yea, this part of the "adventure" was kinda disappointin'...

TBH I'm not really a "fan" of these Chinesium brushless motor/controllers
...but, I already had it
...so, I tried/used it :cornut:

I like the simplicity & brute strength/force, of the MY-1020 brushed motors ;)
...so, I ordered got (2) 48V 1,000W motor/controllers (~$125.00 ea. kit)
SAM_3211 (1).JPG
My Polaris racer has a 48V 1,000 brushed motor/controller
SAM_3212 (1).JPG
So, I'm "now" goin' with the same set up on Sequoia & Tsunami
...for consistency & ease of direct comparison of the (3) different race cars performance :thumbsup:
SAM_3213 (1).JPG
 

Master Hack

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My experience with chinese electronics has been somewhat less than "satisfactory".
I did have success with the $10 PWM controller we talked about recently. I find if ya derate the claimed power capabilities by 3-400% they work ok. In this case the PWM box was rated for 60 Amp (that in it self is hilarious) handles 3-4 amps just fine.
What makes this POS so funny is it is rated for 60 amps but the terminal block only can take 16 ga wire.
 

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The drive sprocket that comes on these MY-1020 motors is usually for use with #25 or #8mm chain
...but, I use #35 chain ;)
...so, I had ta change out that little dinky sprocket
...to a 10T Power Curve Sprocket :thumbsup:
SAM_3366 (1).JPG
* Note:
The shaft/stud that secures the drive sprocket in place, on these motors, has reverse (left handed) threads

An impact gun works best (for this task)
...but, ya gotta hold the sprocket with a pair of plyers (so it don't turn with the bolt)
SAM_3367 (1).JPG
Then, I got the "new" MY-1020 48V 1,000W motor
...& speed controller mounted

Pretty clean installation :cheers2:
SAM_3372 (1).JPG
View from the other side
SAM_3377 (1).JPG
 

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Functional Artist

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Also, I have to deal with the front suspension "sag" issue
...which leads to the front wheels "toeing outwards"
...which then, dramatically increases the rolling resistance
To "bypass" this issue, I made/installed some "prop tubes"
SAM_3373 (1).JPG
Just a couple of pieces of pipe
...to eliminate the (sagging) coil-over shocks, from the equation (for now) ;)
SAM_3374 (1).JPG
Hey Ducky (my little helper) :cheers2:
SAM_3376 (1).JPG
Also, I'ma NOT likin' the "drag" these hydraulic calipers are exerting on the "rollability"

I've got 'em centered about "as good as they gonna get" :thumbsup:
...& everytime ya "hit" the brakes, that inner pad doesn't re-tract, very much :huh:
...& pretty much just "rides" up against the rotor (the whole time) :furious2:
...on ALL (3) wheels :mad2:
SAM_3375 (1).JPG
 

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The previous system (motor, controller & batt pack) that motivated/powered this racer was 60VDC
...& now we are switching to/using a 48VDC system ;)

We already have a 48V 1,000W motor & 48V 1,000W speed controller, installed
...&/so, now we need a 48V batt pack

Rule book details on battery pack:

CLASS 4 – ADVANCED LITHIUM

Batteries
• Batteries may be any type of sealed production batteries that are under 1200 watt hours


Here are the 48V battery pack specs:

Function:
  • Waterproof and heat shrinkable casing.
  • No memory effect, rechargeable.
  • Lithium battery which is the best choice for electric bicycle.
  • Life expectancy is twice that of lead-acid batteries,Cycle life 1000+.
  • Small size and light weight. Only one quarter of the weight of the lead-acid battery
  • Safer and more environmentally friendly, free of heavy metals and harmful substances.
  • Built-in BMS chip can prevent battery pack from overcharge, overdischarge, overcurrent, overheat, short circuit and extend battery life.
52V 20Ah with 30A/40A BMS Lithium Ebike Battery for 200W~1500W Electric Bicycle Motor
  • Voltage:52V
  • Battery Capacity: 20Ah
  • Energy: 1040Wh
  • Configuration:14Series 8Paralles=112pcs cells
  • Item Length: 260mm
  • Item Width: 70mm
  • Item Height: 160mm
  • Item Weight:≈5.6KGS
  • Standard charge Current: 2.5A
  • Maximum continuous charge current: 5A
  • Max Continuous Discharge Current: 30A/40A
  • Peak Discharge Current:90A/120A
  • Charger Input:AC 100-240V
  • Charge Cut-off Voltage:58.8V
  • Discharge Cut-off Voltage: 39.2V
  • Charger: 58.8V 2.5A
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184436825528?var=692138712878
SAM_3127 (1).JPG
* Notice the Energy is listed at 1040Wh
...which is just a bit over the 1,000Wh Electrathon America rules

IMO this "adjustment" takes into account, the fact that Lithium batteries can't/shouldn't be drained too low
...but, well within the 1,200Wh Challenge USA/Electrathon rulebook requirements

Left: 60V (16S) 15AH battery pack Right: 48V (14S) 20AH battery pack
SAM_3392 (1).JPG
 

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I made a battery box (basically a (5) sided cover) to protect the battery pack from external damage
...& (more importantly) to protect the driver from any potential battery issues
...& also, a device/method for securely mounting the batt pack to the chassis

* From the Challenge USA/Electrathon rule book

4. Drive batteries must be enclosed in a box or other structure that will protect the batteries
from puncture
a. If the battery box is made of wood or plastic, it must be enclosed within frame
members as to prevent breakage of the battery box in the event of a crash
b. The battery box must be non-conductive, or will prevent battery terminals from
contacting material if it is conductive
c. The battery box must secure batteries from all six sides
d. The battery box must be securely fastened to the frame AND batteries held in
place within the box, such that the batteries and box will remain in place in the
event of a vehicle rollover or impact
i. Bungees and cloth cinch-straps are discouraged for holding batteries and
boxes in place

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lyOtDExh5oUlSKFWA7ZaVGW64BS-AwiH/view

* From the Challenge USA/Electrathon Vehicle Inspection form

2. Electrical System
A. _____ Batteries less than 1200 watt-hours
B. _____ Battery box non-conductive or terminals protected
C. _____ Battery box held to frame and batteries held in place within box
D. _____ Fuse or circuit breaker between batteries and controller
E. _____ Master disconnects visible and accessible by driver and officials
F. _____ Exterior disconnect is highly visible and labeled (8 square inches)
G. _____ Wires not at risk of chafing
H. _____ Electrical system isolated from chassis (visual inspection, no wires directly screwed to frame)
I. _____ Any terminals inside the cockpit are capped or taped to prevent contact with driver

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11PgIF9wVa1l30nuGJbMpvUoLkVhcvfuC/view

* It's NOT a sealed container
...but, more like a "fire wall" between the driver & batt pack
...which will give the driver more time to exit the vehicle, in the event of an emergency ;)

Drawings/specs
SAM_3386 (1).JPG
Layed out on a piece of ~18G steel (a piece of galvanized steel harvested off the side of an old industrial dish washer)
SAM_3379 (1).JPG
Cut out
SAM_3380 (1).JPG
Rounded & smoothed
SAM_3381 (1).JPG
Initial bending
SAM_3383 (1).JPG
Supplemental bending
SAM_3384 (1).JPG
Jualla :sifone:
SAM_3385 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Here are the battery packs
...60V (16S) lithium battery pack (left)
...& 52V (14S) battery pack (right)
SAM_3392 (1).JPG
Before installing the battery pack, I had ta install a shunt (data collector for the power meter)
...'cause for some unknown reason (seemed like a good idea at the time) I installed the shunt, on/inside of the cover on the 60V battery pack :huh:
SAM_3393 (1).JPG
Shunt parts
SAM_3395 (1).JPG
This piece of vinyl tube will "serve" as a protector/insulator for the shunt :2guns:
SAM_3396 (1).JPG
I'm thinkin' it should be pretty well "safe" if mounted, under the seat
SAM_3401 (1).JPG
Just gotta "cut out" a section of the Negative "cable" to be able to "fit in" the shunt
SAM_3402 (1).JPG
Like this
SAM_3403 (1).JPG
All "wired up"
...& then, slid inside of the protective "sleeve"
SAM_3406 (1).JPG
Here's the battery pack/box & shunt, mounted on the racer :thumbsup:
SAM_3407 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Depends on the "event" Electrathon America
...or the Challange USA Electrathon

Sequoia will/should qualify for the Electrathon America races (down ~2,000 miles away from me, in Florida)
...but, not for the Challange USA Electrathon races (~100 miles away from me, in Michigan) sadly

* The battery & box are also gonna be tested/used in Tsunami
...which should (I'm trying) qualify for running in the closer (Challange USA) sanctioned events
 

Functional Artist

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Will that pass inspection?
Here are what the Challenge USA Electrathon rules say:

BATTERIES
4. Drive batteries must be enclosed in a box or other structure that will protect the batteries
from puncture
a. If the battery box is made of wood or plastic, it must be enclosed within frame
members as to prevent breakage of the battery box in the event of a crash
b. The battery box must be non-conductive, or will prevent battery terminals from
contacting material if it is conductive
c. The battery box must secure batteries from all six sides
d. The battery box must be securely fastened to the frame AND batteries held in
place within the box, such that the batteries and box will remain in place in the
event of a vehicle rollover or impact
i. Bungees and cloth cinch-straps are discouraged for holding batteries and
boxes in place


So, if you're referring to the battery box?
...enclosed in a box: check
...box secures battery from all (6) sides: check
...box securely fastened to the frame: check

Or
...if you're referring to the shunt/wiring/battery cables

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1. All vehicles must have a fuse or circuit breaker between the batteries and motor
controller
a. It is suggested to put a fuse between the motor and controller to protect the
controller from a short in the motor
b. Fuses or circuit breakers must be an appropriate size. Wiring must also be a
suitable size (National Electrical Code Ampacity Chart) so that the fuse or
breaker will blow before cable insulation can melt

2. All wiring must be kept clear of moving parts and protected from chafing. Wiring should
be neat, organized, and securely tied to the frame
3. The vehicle frame may not be used as a conductor for any part of the electrical system.
The electrical system must be isolated from the chassis
4. All vehicles must have master disconnect switches. One that is easily accessible by the
driver, and one that is accessible by track officials from both sides of the vehicle during
the competition. Consider all on-track situations when choosing switch locations. Can
track officials reach the switch in an emergency?
a. The internal disconnect switch (for the driver) must be mounted at a location that
the driver can reach from a driving position with a helmet, safety gear, and a
5point harness on
b. The disconnect switch must be clearly marked with a highly visible color that
contrasts the body color and is at least 8 square inches, along with a label of
on/off positions
c. The switch must be located between the battery and motor controller
d. The driver’s switch must be mounted in the driver’s field of vision, where it can
be operated from driving position
e. Any disconnect switch or circuit breaker acting as a disconnect switch must be
DC rated

5. The gauge of wire used in a vehicle should be determined by the current the wire will
carry. Refer to the National Electrical Code Ampacity Chart linked above in “Electrical
System 1.a”


I'm not seein' any issues :thumbsup:

Here is a link to the complete Challenge USA Electrathon rule book (for additional reference) ;)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lyOtDExh5oUlSKFWA7ZaVGW64BS-AwiH/view
 
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