Saying goodbye 😥

[G.W]

Here's what the head looks like

 

[G.W]

 

[G.W]

The info I found online says it's th 20

 

[G.W]

You gotta measure it.
It's hard to tell a 20 from a 18 with the eyeball. The 14 is ez to recognize.

The last 18 I seen came off a 2016 stock baja warrior/heat. Seems like for the passed 4 or 5 yrs they all have been 20's or 22's.

The 14's came on the stock gx160 and clone 168's. They both are 163cc engines.
You gotta use a dished piston when using a 14cc head on a 196 or bigger engine, unless you wanna run a better fuel.

Tech: cheap and dirty cylinder head CC

Stupid little tip here... If any of you guys are trying to figure Compression ratio on an OHV engine, and you want to CC your heads, here's some...

www.jalopyjournal.com

How much better? I could probably get some 93 octane

 

[BrownStainRacing]

View attachment 141708View attachment 141709

You never know what the manufacturer put on there.

A batch of 10,000 might be 20cc heads, and the next batch might be 22cc.

They jus use whatever is cheapest to put together and send out the door.

Theres nothing writin in stone that says a 196cc engine has to have a 18cc head on it before it leaves China.

It's best jus to measure it.

 

[G.W]

I might be able to get the 196 from my old Baja mini bike. I gave it to a friend who wanted to do something with it. I'd probably have to re lap the valves on it though.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

How much better? I could probably get some 93 octane

Only pump gas I trust is, 87 octane.

For instance, you take a 5 gallon jug to a pump, push the 93 octane button, theres a very good chance the 1st 2 gallons will be 87 from the person that used that pump before you. So now you have closer to 90 octane

I find it best to get the build as close to 10.5:1 CR as you can, get the DCR between 8.1:1 - 8.5:1 and use 87 octane.
With the right tune, this makes a much more powerful engine and you won't burn it up.

Focus on the dynamic compression ratio (DCR), this is what makes power, and determines what octane needs to be used.
When you start creeping passed that 8.5:1 mark, you start needing more octane and gotta keep up with the tune.

If you need IVC (intake valve closing) points from different cams, jus ask, I gotta bunch written down.

Compression Ratio Calculator (Static and Dynamic)

The compression ratio calculator finds both the static and the dynamic compression ratio of your combustion engine.

www.omnicalculator.com

 

[G.W]

I am not going to start building the engine for a while, but I will come back when it is time.

Do you have any specific parts you suggest using? If the head is 20cc or less should I use it instead of the stock 212 head?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I am not going to start building the engine for a while, but I will come back when it is time.

Do you have any specific parts you suggest using? If the head is 20cc or less should I use it instead of the stock 212 head?

It depends on what it's gonna be used for.

If it stays governored, then the stock rod can be used up to 5300 rpm, but pred don't have + length stock rods, so that changes the piston to deck clearance, which changes the whole build. It's a strong, reliable build, but jus calls for different parts.

Now a +.020" longer BILLET rod moves the piston closer to the deck, and a thicker head gasket will be needed, which will also may need different valve train parts.
No one knows this until everything is measure and spec'ed out.

This is the main reason I get ALL my valve train parts from 1 supplier for any build. I know what parts will work with other parts.

Many, many failures have taught me that,

When you get ready, start another thread, and I'll send you important clearances that will make the build much more reliable and the power jus falls into place.

 

[G.W]

Will do. I'm looking forward to building this engine. I don't want it super powerful, just a little spicy and safe to rev higher. I want it to last.

Here's a list of parts I wanted for my engine:
-billet rod and flywheel
-duration cam (if they make them)
-stiffer springs
-flat top piston
-excuse
-mikuni carb

If there is anything I missed and should include, or some things I should take away from this list let me know. I'm working on building a budget for this build and need to see what the parts will potentially cost.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Will do. I'm looking forward to building this engine. I don't want it super powerful, just a little spicy and safe to rev higher. I want it to last.

Here's a list of parts I wanted for my engine:
-billet rod and flywheel
-duration cam (if they make them)
-stiffer springs
-flat top piston
-excuse
-mikuni carb

If there is anything I missed and should include, or some things I should take away from this list let me know. I'm working on building a budget for this build and need to see what the parts will potentially cost.

This flywheel will save 4-5 ozs on the crank and $80 on your wallet, compared to the billet flywheel.

You can use that savings towards a Dover Power performance coil and a much better camshaft.

Always try to get the +.020" (3.328") longer then stock length rod. They the same price and might as well take advantage of the extra CR it will allow.

Hold off on the piston, til you figure out what cc head you will be using.

Tillotson 212R Cast Aluminum Flywheel - EC Carburetors

www.eccarburetors.com