Running go kart with no muffler
- Thread starter spikeman
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Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
It will run faster than 3600 rpm and be noisy.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Spikeman, you definitely should run a header or a muffler for safety's sake (usually the carb/fuel system is close by on some designs), if you do the header thing, Kart Racers like Tyler will point you to what works best for them. I had an old 5hp flatty, and it ran much better without the stock muffler (14" straight pipe) but it was loud. I screwed on an adapter to let me run a B/S 8hp muffler onto the end of it, and it still did fine.... not quite as loud.
Your results will vary.
Your results will vary.
jr dragster T
New member
Yeah, A header help's quite alot in low end torque. For a stock engine your standared water pipe is alright. If running a more heavily modified engine you'd want something stage'd with a nice flange. Each stage should be about 7+ inch's long.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
THX Tyler! Have the y established an ideal length for the GX200 clone yet? I'm thinking on finally messing with my humble clones.
jr dragster T
New member
For the GX200's we run slightly shorter headers. About 7 inch's for the first stage of 1" OD pipe. Then about 5-6 inch's for the second stage. Remember the first stage doesnt have to be huge because the exaust is just pushed through it. The second stage is larger to keep up the flow as the gas's expand rapidly. Dont make the first or second stage any larger than your port. If you do you wont keep any heat in the motor at all. Also it help's to invest in a high flow flange if you want to build your own header. AGK sell's these flange's and they have no restriction. Pipe is welded on the outside of the flange rather than the inside of the stock flange. Hope that help's.
Tyler.
Tyler.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Yeah- HUGE help. It seems that the clone headers are a bit tougher to package onto existing karts. (The "straight" and the "candycane" stick out funny.) I was thinking on butchering the stock muffler for it's flange, and then making a single-stage "custom" header to fit the kart it's going on. (At this point, possibly the Treefrog.) The stock clone mufflers must be pretty restrictive, because they're both compact & quiet. I was thinking of trying my tried & true "Muffler from the B/S 8hp" on the end of said header.
BradenM
Etre Et Durer.
Jerry; thats exactly what I did, with a shade under a foot of pipe with a the same ID as the original flange. Eventually, I will upgrade, but immediate performance is noticeable compared to the stock muffler.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
That's what I was hoping to hear. $35- $50 for a metal pipe kinda goes against my sense of values.
jr dragster T
New member
Well Jerry for $35-$50 you get something that was dyno tested and tuned to that engine desihn. It's all TIG welded. And you get the high flow flange. On some engines the flange is half the probelem with restriction. I understand now that I have a job and work for my money that not everyone can just spend $50 on something they could have made themself a bit red-nek style.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Yup... that $35- $50 can go to other things like the electric bill,, rent, etc..... Plus, the fitment onto the Treefrog would require some butchery anyway. May as well make it custom to the job.
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
What happened to the rotax-treefrog!?!
jr dragster T
New member
Well I think we all know now the result's of running a go kart with no muffler. Hi-Jacker's welcome.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
The Rotax is going on a Home-Built Flat-Tracker motorcycle someday.... um, with a muffler or some sort of exhaust system.
(See R.I.P.)
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
SpyGuy
Hooligan
Very nice ....... put buckshot in it, and use it for, ummm ...... "drilling" holes along the outside of the pipe.
For that matter, for a muffler, just use an old spraypaint can and some #3 coarse steel wool. Pry off the top of the can, cut off the bottom of the can, cut out a hole just large enough to fit over the pipe on the bottom (takes some fitting), fill the can with the steel wool, slip a tension spring onto the end of the pipe, and use a large cotter pin through a pair of holes at the en of the pipe to hold it in place.
Sound funny? It works:
And y'all probably thought I was kidding ........ Btw, this is on my pint-sized "rat" pocketbike. If you look carefully, you can also see the Altoids can air cleaner, the BMX Mongoose footpegs, and the dremel wrench killswitch cover. That seat support is made from a piece of office keyboard track.
For that matter, for a muffler, just use an old spraypaint can and some #3 coarse steel wool. Pry off the top of the can, cut off the bottom of the can, cut out a hole just large enough to fit over the pipe on the bottom (takes some fitting), fill the can with the steel wool, slip a tension spring onto the end of the pipe, and use a large cotter pin through a pair of holes at the en of the pipe to hold it in place.
Sound funny? It works:
And y'all probably thought I was kidding ........ Btw, this is on my pint-sized "rat" pocketbike. If you look carefully, you can also see the Altoids can air cleaner, the BMX Mongoose footpegs, and the dremel wrench killswitch cover. That seat support is made from a piece of office keyboard track.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Too Cool!
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