Rockwell 440cc and a kenbar streaker?

[Sparkwizard]

After years under cars with a torch and a welder, I got tired of going to an eye doctor, so I bought an EYE MAGNET. It is like a pencil with a strong , smooth curved magnet on one end and a loop on nylon fishing line on the other. I could press that magnet to my eyeball right next to an embedded (cutting torch slag) and it would pop right out. The loop was for nonferrous debris. It does not hurt at all if you get it in a few minutes.
Sleeping, or trying to sleep with a foreign object srcaping your eyelid is tre worst thing. I also have an eye cup. Put saline solution or water in it, press it to your eye, lean back and open your eye. Goggles beat glasses and face mask 100%.

 

[Thepartsguy]

After years under cars with a torch and a welder, I got tired of going to an eye doctor, so I bought an EYE MAGNET. It is like a pencil with a strong , smooth curved magnet on one end and a loop on nylon fishing line on the other. I could press that magnet to my eyeball right next to an embedded (cutting torch slag) and it would pop right out. The loop was for nonferrous debris. It does not hurt at all if you get it in a few minutes.
Sleeping, or trying to sleep with a foreign object srcaping your eyelid is tre worst thing. I also have an eye cup. Put saline solution or water in it, press it to your eye, lean back and open your eye. Goggles beat glasses and face mask 100%.

I will be looking up an eye magnet now thank you thank you thank you!!! And yupp also no facemask goggles it is!

I see musti grinding stuff without eyewear and it drives me nuts.

I have been very lucky thus far not having anything ever get trapped but I could imagine sleeping with something stuck in the eyeball would be not only terrifying but very very annoying

 

[Thepartsguy]

I need two kill switches some new chain and chain tensioner. All that will be ordered online and have to ship.

I cannot ride it without being able to shut it off.

BUT I did squirt some fuel in the carb with a bottle and HOLY Thing is gonna be an animal.

The exhaust is ear bleeding it fired up second pull and I may have have gave it a bit to much fuel because it stayed running for a solid 10 seconds and then starting idling up as it leaned out.

ALMOST had me scared there… ALMOST

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

You dont need 2 kill switches.
Just wire the 2 coils to one switch.
Mount said switch on the steering wheel for best reach in an emergency.

 

[Thepartsguy]

You dont need 2 kill switches.
Just wire the 2 coils to one switch.
Mount said switch on the steering wheel for best reach in an emergency.

Umm I tried one switch only on the blue rockwell 440cc buggy and it messed with the starting and coils to fire the plugs.

I tried one switch on the duel engine Briggs gokart and it messed with the coils and gave starting issues.

go to YouTube and type (junkyard digs twin engine gokart) and notice from factory it had two kill switches as I’m sure only using one messed with the coils and gave starting issues.

After all the troubles I’ve had in the past with wiring two coils to one switch I’ll just wire each coil to their own dedicated switch.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I see. The coil doesn't like to "see" the other coil. Use a double pole single throw switch then.

Trying to fumble 2 switches just before you crash isn't fun.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I see. The coil doesn't like to "see" the other coil. Use a double pole single throw switch then.

Trying to fumble 2 switches just before you crash isn't fun.

they make long lever switches and I use them in a slap down configuration on everything. Down being the “off” or “shut off” and up being on.

Pops taught me that. No need to fumble or mess around trying to reach down and pull both switches upward.

Two close together switches and if at any point something is off just “slap down” to kill power.

And it makes it super easy to remember down is off up is on.

 

[Sparkwizard]

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Commercial-Electric-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-Silver-ETL-Listed-Toggle-Switch-for-Industrial-Equipment-and-Emergency-Lighting-NHE-DTS-1/343305051?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla=&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_LIA_25&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_LIA_25-22752160552-190399575348-2490301549874&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22752160552&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UcTsY0Y0ubFPDLmcFb2YzAL1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8ofWBhCHARIsANBj4LunhbSPCxLwivnIQTHiFyro0OITTzrshSzOEjo55FtbkKrTgQ5GgRMaAjKsEALw_wcB

Double pole, double throw switch. Same switch, both coils, but on seperate sides. Not connected together.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I have a 5/8 jackshaft and 12t sprocket in the junk pile.

Might make an idler sprocket instead of an eBay chain tensioner. Not sure yet.

 

[Thepartsguy]

You want the tensioner on the slack side, not the pulling side. a tensioner on that side will just flatten out and be useless.

In a world where I NEED things explained to me like I’m a 5 year old re-reading this sentence finally made it “click” on why a tensioner on the pulling side won’t work.

Now that I think of it if I had solid mounted the tensioner/idler on the pulling side it would have broke instantly or worse busted my chain case right off entirely!

This place and all it’s members have saved me from so much hassle and continue to!

 

[Thepartsguy]

I would consider notching the frame now instead of waiting for it to self clearance.

And now the bad news! When the chain tensioner flexes on the slack side the chain is gonna hit the frame anyway i’m guessing?

What’s everyone’s think? Bobby gets a 20 minute head start? 30 minute head start? Oohhhhhh when we catch him it‘s gonna be glorious.

 

[panchothedog]

I think you need some SERIOUS ear protection before your first ride. You and that exhaust pipe are going to get to be pretty good friends, ( actually probably enemies ).
Totally agree on the kill switch concept. When trouble arrives, nothing faster than a quick slap downward.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Update one switch running both kill wires produces zero spark in either position.

Disconnect one wire one plug gets spark.

So as I feared I’ll need two switches. ordered from ebay along with two chain tensioners.

That’s all I need for a test ride so it will be a week or so.

 

[Sparkwizard]

That chain will slap (or grind) the frame if you don't fix it.

 

[Sparkwizard]

Cut a piece of the frame out and weld in a piece of channel iron. Simple, neat and effective.

 

[Thepartsguy]

The first start and run was amazing and not amazing.

The engine is smooth as silk. Does not vibrate or shake it is nice and solid while being very smooth so that is one worry that I no longer have.

It idles all day will try to rev but immediately just falls off and bogs when any throttle is applied.

I’m *** deep in a walbro wda-30 carburetor rebuild but I’m not seeing what’s causing the bog witch is terrifying. the carburetor inside and outside on a quick and minimal teardown is SPOTLESS

I hope the crank seals are not out of the thing that means a full teardown and re-seal of the bottom end and kits are not cheap. It’s so loud…

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Can you see the crank seals at all?
You can use an un-lit propane torch to wave some gas around those seals while its running.

Does running on half choke make it run better?

 

[Thepartsguy]

Can you see the crank seals at all?
You can use an un-lit propane torch to wave some gas around those seals while its running.

Does running on half choke make it run better?

Cupping my hand over the carb inlet would sometimes allow it to rev up slightly better but other times it would cause it to directly bog out and stall.

I have the carb gone through and back on but I know my limits when It comes to what will upset the neighbors. So I’ll find out more tomorrow.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

This will sound absolutely absurd, but I've done it. And theres proof somewhere on this forum.

Put your shop vac on the exhaust.

I had a 2 stroke I just couldnt get to run. Had decent compression. Clean carb, fresh gas, strong spark. It would act like it wanted to run but just couldn't get its act together.

Some left handed ciggy thinking...
What if i put a vacuum on the exhaust side to help get the fuel mix pulled through.
It worked.
As long as I had the shop vac on, it ran and revved. Turn off the vac and the engine sputterd out.

I figured it was bad crank seals and it wasnt work fixing. Moved on to other projects.

 

[Thepartsguy]

This will sound absolutely absurd, but I've done it. And theres proof somewhere on this forum.

Put your shop vac on the exhaust.

I had a 2 stroke I just couldnt get to run. Had decent compression. Clean carb, fresh gas, strong spark. It would act like it wanted to run but just couldn't get its act together.

Some left handed ciggy thinking...
What if i put a vacuum on the exhaust side to help get the fuel mix pulled through.
It worked.
As long as I had the shop vac on, it ran and revved. Turn off the vac and the engine sputterd out.

I figured it was bad crank seals and it wasnt work fixing. Moved on to other projects.

That’s on the list of things to go through I got a shop vac kicking around and it sounds easy enough.

I got the carburetor apart and it is insane the diaphragm and gaskets look like they were installed yesterday they were in such good a good condition. Makes me think the previous owner straight up lied about it setting 30 years in a barn. The carburetor looked as If it was professionally rebuilt yesterday.

I did notice the lever that raises the needle from the seat just barely lift the needle out of the seat the needle barley even moves.

So if i didn’t knock something out of a passage with the air compressor then next is a needle/seat adjustment.

Then fuel return line to the tank was mostly air. Then some fuel light air bubbles mixed with fuel and then back to mostly air. I have some ideas kicking around.