Resistor on contactor

[Bigfillly]

Hi all,
I’m building an electric go kart and got all the components, they are:-
Montenergy 2000w-4000w 48v 98a motor
Kelly kdz48300 300a controller
Contactor
Foot pedal accelerator
The only thing I’m missing is the resistor that goes across the contactor,
Can anyone give me a clue how to work out which I need,
Thanks very much,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

I have about the same set up on my El Moto (Electric Motorcycle)

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=37062

When I stepped up to 48V (~page 5) the contactor I got from Kelly Controls came with a 10W 1KJ resistor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EEotMgxaio

 

[Bigfillly]

Hi,
Great thread you have there, looks like you got it all running nicely,
Thanks for the info on the resistor across the positives, I didn’t realise it needed a diode across the 12v input too, why is that?
Thanks again,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hi,
Great thread you have there, looks like you got it all running nicely,
Thanks for the info on the resistor across the positives, I didn’t realise it needed a diode across the 12v input too, why is that?
Thanks again,
Phil.

Thanks, I have a few electrical toys (I call 'em functional art)

From what I understand, a diode is like a (1) way electrical valve
...so, I would say it's a protective "electrical blocker" of some kind.

* If you have a 48V system, I believe you should have 48V input going to the contactor (not 12V)
…so, you should have a 48V contactor too

 

[Bigfillly]

I’ll take a look at your other toys
My contactor is 48v for the battery and a 12v input?
Also is there anywhere I can get a diagram of the pin outs on the g1 and g2 plugs
Thanks very much for the help,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is the manual, right from Kelly Controls.

https://kellyev.com/wp-content/uploads/kdz/KellyKDZUserManual.pdf

The definitions are on page 9.
...the wiring diagram (with reverse) page 11.
...& the wiring diagram (without reverse) page 12.
(this is how my El Moto is wired)

Here is the thread where I first mounted this set up on a go kart.

This one's called El Dingo (Electric Dingo)
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=33680

IIRC, She took 3rd place in the 2016 DIYGK Build Off

---------- Post added at 06:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 AM ----------

I’ll take a look at your other toys
My contactor is 48v for the battery and a 12v input?
Also is there anywhere I can get a diagram of the pin outs on the g1 and g2 plugs
Thanks very much for the help,
Phil.

As for the contactor,

The J1-3 pin is the "Main Relay" (it's the positive (+) wire that powers the contactor coil, which activates the control circuit of the contactor, sending the "big" power to the motor)

The J2-3 pin is the "RTN" (it's the ground (-) to the contactor coil, which completes the circuit)

So, on a 48V system (like yours) the J1-3 pin should put out 48V (pack voltage)

Mine does, when I ran it @ 36V I had to use a 36V contactor
...& when I stepped up to 48V then, I needed a 48V contactor.

 

[Bigfillly]

Wow that will help me greatly, thank you
You do like an ev project or 2 don’t you, your kids seem to enjoy them as well
Once I get to building the gokart, I’ll get some pics on here
Have you got any other projects in the pipeline?

 

[Functional Artist]

Have ya seen/heard of Damien?

It's loosely based on an Aerial Atom type chassis.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40084

It's still a "work in progress"

 

[Bigfillly]

Looks like a bit of fun, are you going bigger with the motor or around the same?
You must have a lot of time on your hands to do all these projects,

I’m struggling to find a resistor called “precharged” here in the uk, it a Wirewound resistor the same thing?
Thanks again.

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm a tow truck driver, always "on call"
...so, I work on/do "my art" while waitin' for the phone to ring

Damien is gonna be powered by a 48V 1,800W brushless Boma motor with a 6:1 gear ratio.


As for "goin' bigger" check out Atom.
...another project that I have "in the works"

It's a go kart sized Aerial Atom inspired kart that will be powered by a 60V 2,000W brushless Boma motor with a 5.4:1 gear ratio.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40167


Precharge resistor,
Since you have a Kelly KDZ controller, I would contact Fran at Kelly
sales@kelly-controls.com to confirm the proper resistor for your application.
Mine came with the contactor when I purchased it. (both times 36V & 48V)

If you DO have a 12V contactor now & actually need a 48V contactor, maybe you can purchase one from them & it should come with the proper resistor & diode.

This one is for up to 200A systems ~$49.00
https://kellyev.com/shop/kzj-200a/

...or this one is for up to 400A systems ~$69.99
https://kellyev.com/shop/kzj-400a/

*Not sure about delivery fees to UK, so may want to check on them too.

If that's too expensive, maybe check with local golf cart shops or suppliers
...many golf carts use similar systems.

 

[Bigfillly]

WOW
Out of all your builds I think that one is the best looking, I’ll keep an eye on this one too, I was going to mention redesigning the steering wheel mount, on the other builds it looked a bit uncomfortable in the leg area, now it’s mounted above where your legs go, it looks spot on
I thank you for all the links you have given me, I’m now in a lot better place to start my build, keep an eye out for a new thread when I start it, I’ll warn you though, I’m not building my frame, it’s being built on a go kart that’s mass produced for racing
Thanks very much again functional artist

 

[Functional Artist]

Your very welcome!

Yes, keep us posted on your progress.

* While I'm showin' off, have ya seen the Torsk (backbone chassis) kart?
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38905

the !ARRIBA! kart?
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=37852

I got videos too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wztjU3Uy4vg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9I5fhBZ1zo&index=14&list=PLoL6eIYWPO_mE6WijMU-V1SSmDdEUpnlI

 

[Bigfillly]

How long have you been building these toys, there’s a lifetime of builds there, congratulations to you, they both move pretty well for the size of the motors, I wish I had more time for projects,
When I start my build I’ll update on here, it shouldn’t be too long but in the mean time I’ll be checking in on all your progress, I can’t wait to see how the atom look-a-like ends up.

 

[Bigfillly]

Hi all again,
I have everything in my shed and I’m about to wire it all up for a test run, I’m looking for a bit of guidance on the throttle wiring,
I have a green, black and red wire from the throttle, I’ve looked on the Kelly wiring diagram and want to confirm that the pins to use on the j2 plug are:-
3 = black from the throttle (return pin)
5 = green from the throttle (throttle input)
11 = red from throttle (throttle switch)
Please let me know if thats correct,
Thanks very much again,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hi all again,
I have everything in my shed and I’m about to wire it all up for a test run, I’m looking for a bit of guidance on the throttle wiring,
I have a green, black and red wire from the throttle, I’ve looked on the Kelly wiring diagram and want to confirm that the pins to use on the j2 plug are:-
3 = black from the throttle (return pin)
5 = green from the throttle (throttle input)
11 = red from throttle (throttle switch)
Please let me know if thats correct,
Thanks very much again,
Phil.

Throttle wires:

Red, goes to J2 pin #7
...it sends (5V) to power the throttle.

Black, goes to J2 pin #3
...it's the negative (-) to complete the 'power" circuit.

Green, goes to J2 pin #5
...it sends the throttle "position" signal "back" to the controller.

 

[Bigfillly]

Thanks very much again for the help, I’m starting to think your the only one on this site
I got impatient waiting for the accelerator throttle being delivered, so I’ve wired it all up using a throttle from an electric scooter, however, I’m getting a code 2,4 (throttle) so I’ll have to wait till my other one gets delivered,
At least I’m getting somewhere with it now,
I’ll update once the accelerator pedal gets delivered,
Thanks again,
Phil.

 

[Bigfillly]

Hi all,
I haven’t forgot about updating, I managed to get the throttle working, the controller must be set up so it turns the motor a little at idle, I got around it by:-
1, connecting the contactor
2, connecting the controller
3, conecting the throttle
It worked that way,
Everything was going well and I was just doing a final check before going for a test run and I heard a second click upon turning the controller on
I took the controller apart and found it’s covered with white stuff so you can’t repair it yourself, I contacted Kelly controllers and they can’t guarantee fixing it, so I though I may as well have a look myself, I managed to scrap off some of the white stuff and found that an international rectifier has blown, I’ve ordered one, it should be here in a week,

I have a question about the fuse going to the controller, what size should it be?
Thanks very much,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hi all,
I haven’t forgot about updating, I managed to get the throttle working, the controller must be set up so it turns the motor a little at idle, I got around it by:-
1, connecting the contactor
2, connecting the controller
3, conecting the throttle
It worked that way,
Everything was going well and I was just doing a final check before going for a test run and I heard a second click upon turning the controller on
I took the controller apart and found it’s covered with white stuff so you can’t repair it yourself, I contacted Kelly controllers and they can’t guarantee fixing it, so I though I may as well have a look myself, I managed to scrap off some of the white stuff and found that an international rectifier has blown, I’ve ordered one, it should be here in a week,

I have a question about the fuse going to the controller, what size should it be?
Thanks very much,
Phil.

I've never heard of "idle" associated with electric motors.

As far as I know, the motor should NOT turn (even a little bit) with the throttle fully released.

When the throttle is at rest, there should be a 0 voltage signal being sent to the controller
…& the controller should NOT be sending any "power" to the motor

When the throttle is actuated the voltage signal sent to the controller should increase up to ~5V
...only then, should any "power" be transferred to the motor.

* IMO This would NOT be a safe situation
...because you don't/shouldn't have a clutch to engage/disengage the power (rotation) of the motor.

Something sounds defective


** The fuse should be large enough to handle the amperage that the motor can/will draw
...but NOT too large
If it's too large, the next "weakest link" (section of cable, terminal etc.) will "blow" burn out instead.

 

[Bigfillly]

Ha ha I couldn’t think what to call it when the motor is stopped
I got the controller of a guy that had it setup for a boat, maybe he set it that way for some reason, or maybe there is something else wrong with it, hopefully when the new rectifier comes it works again, then I could have a look at why it moves slowly at idle
I’ll put a 5amp fuse in just to be on the safe side,
Thanks again functional artist

---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 AM ----------

P.S. how do I get pics on here?

 

[Functional Artist]

Your very welcome. Teamwork!

Yes, the fuse protecting the "small power" to the controller should be 5A (according to the Kelly diagram)

To post pics, when your on the "Reply to Thread" screen, scroll down to "Additional Options".

In the middle of Additional Options you'll see "Attach Files" & below it a box that says "Manage Attachments". Click on it & the Manage Attachments box will appear.

When that box appears, click on "Browse" & a "Choose File to Upload" box will appear. Choose/"click on" a file (from your computer) then, click "open" & it should upload to your post. (sometimes takes a few minutes)

When uploaded, click, off to the side to remove the windows & when back at the "Reply to Thread" screen click "Preview" to see the image & post before submitting the reply.