Resistor on contactor

[Bigfillly]

Hmm I tried to upload a video but at the end of uploading it it said error uploading, it can’t be too big as as it’s only 30 seconds and done on an Iphone, I’ll keep trying, I’ll probably get a few pics on here once it’s back together,
Thanks again for the info functional artist, what’s your name anyway, I can’t keep saying functional artist

 

[landuse]

Hmm I tried to upload a video but at the end of uploading it it said error uploading, it can’t be too big as as it’s only 30 seconds and done on an Iphone, I’ll keep trying, I’ll probably get a few pics on here once it’s back together,
Thanks again for the info functional artist, what’s your name anyway, I can’t keep saying functional artist

His name is Kevin

 

[Bigfillly]

Thanks

 

[Bigfillly]

Well it’s bad news I afraid, I swapped out the rectifier but the controller is still stuck with just the red light on, I’ll remove all the white stuff on the circuit and inspect the other components :-(

 

[Functional Artist]

Hi all,
I’m building an electric go kart and got all the components, they are:-
Montenergy 2000w-4000w 48v 98a motor
Kelly kdz48300 300a controller
Contactor
Foot pedal accelerator
The only thing I’m missing is the resistor that goes across the contactor,
Can anyone give me a clue how to work out which I need,
Thanks very much,
Phil.

Hey Phil,
Yup, my name is Kevin.

Well that SUCKS!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
...missing the (precharge) resistor that goes across the contactor?

From what I understand, this resistor precharges the capacitators in the controller. This let's them fill up slowly so they don't get SLAMMED with the full pack voltage when the system is first turned on.

If the previous owner (set up for a boat) used that controller without a precharge resistor, that could be (at least part of) the problem.

Can you tell where the "white stuff" came from?
...or what it is?

 

[Bigfillly]

Hi Kev,
I have the precharge resistor in place, I think it was a metal key start I used, i tested it and it sends 5v though the metal case when switched on, this goes through the metal it’s mounted on, then through the frame, then to the controller case which is mounted to the frame,
The white stuff is in all Kelly controllers, it’s something they put over the components so you can’t work on them yourself,
I’ll remove it one day,
Thanks,
Phil.

 

[Bmr4Karts]

I'm getting closer to starting the actual building stage of my kart. I have a question related to this thread. What is the purpose of the contactor? Is it just a high amp relay that is controlled by low current switch?

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm getting closer to starting the actual building stage of my kart. I have a question related to this thread. What is the purpose of the contactor? Is it just a high amp relay that is controlled by low current switch?

Yup

 

[Bigfillly]

Hello again,
Sorry for the long update but I now have in my hands a brand new Kelly controller, I also got them to send me the correct resistor and diode for the contactor (just incase) I have 2 of each though, am I supposed to connect them both together?

Thanks,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Kelly Controls set me (2) diodes too
...but, just (1) (10W 1KJ) resistor
(not sure why they sent (2) to you)

The resistor can be positioned either way
...but, the diodes must be positioned a certain way
(with the stripe toward the "power out" side of the contactor)
(see last pic below)

The leads on the diode were long enough to just crimp on some ring terminals
...but, I had to add some extension wires to the resistor, so it would reach from terminal to terminal

Here is a video with some info (on the subject)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EEotMgxaio

 

[Bigfillly]

Hi Kev,
Thanks very much for stepping in again
I guess I’m use the bigger resistor out of the 2 and 1 diode,
on your drawing you have a green wire and a red wire, the diode has the band at the red wire, is that your positive wire, or doesn’t it matter as long as it the stripe is on the power out of the solenoid?
Thanks again,
Phil.

---------- Post added at 05:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ----------

Hi again,
I’m probably being daft but is there pin outs that turn the contactor on, I was using a separate switch for this previously,
Thanks again,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

Referring back to the diagram (on page 12)
https://kellycontroller.com/wp-content/uploads/kdz/KellyKDZUserManual.pdf

The red wire provides the positive (+) power (notice it's full pack voltage) from the battery pack
(via the key switch)
...to the contactor
…& also to the speed controller J2-1 (PWR)

The green wire provides the negative (-) to complete the circuit
…& goes directly from the contactor "coil" to the J1-3 (Main Rly)

When the key switch is activated, the contactor & the speed controller get "powered" @ the same time (by the red wire)
…& the green wire is how the speed controller turns the contactor off thus "killing" the power going to the motor (like in a low voltage situation or emergency shut down)

* Notice (in the pic below) I have "highlighted" the (J2-1) positive (+) wire red
...but, I didn't "highlight" the (J1-3) negative (-) in green

* The diagram notes a 10W 1 KOhm resistor

It also indicates the diodes values @ (200V/3A)
…& the proper "stripe" direction

 

[Bigfillly]

Awsome answer and pics once again, I thank you greatly for all the replies you’ve done so far, I’ll hopefully get it all working again tomorrow,
I’ll get a video up for you soon,
Thanks again kev
Phil

 

[Bigfillly]

i got it all together this morning and it seems ok, it still moves without any throttle though?
Here’s the link to the video,
https://youtu.be/hCi7Omi4ADc
I’ll try it out sometime today when the weather picks up
Thanks again Kev for all the time you’ve spent replying, without you expertise, I would have struggled

 

[Functional Artist]

It still seems to be getting a signal from the throttle

Could be a defective throttle, improperly adjusted or binding

Test:
Disconnect the throttle (to remove it from the equation)
…& turn the system on to see if the motor still moves/turns

If it doesn't turn anymore, it indicates there is a throttle problem
...if it does, you have other problems

You could also test the throttle

When the throttle is connected, there should be 0V (zero voltage) coming out of the "signal" wire
…& when activated/twisted it should slowly rise from zero up to ~4.5V-5V

*Your very welcome, glad I can help

 

[Bigfillly]

I have one of the wires from the throttle on a switch at the moment, so when the controller is turned on it doesn’t throws an error out,
The throttle is brand new but it did it from day one, if it’s not connected it’s fine, I’m not too bothered at the moment about it,
LETS TALK SOFTWARE
I have the disc and I’ve tried to load it on a laptop, it says it’s installed but there isn’t a shortcut to click on for programming,
Is there a link that I can download the software from, I’ve been searching for 3 hours and got nowhere, all the links say “this page is no longer available”
Thanks,
Phil.

 

[Functional Artist]

I have not done any of the "software" stuff yet
...but, it's on my "to do list"

Maybe Sid can help with this question
...or email Fran @ Kelly Controls & ask her.

 

[Bigfillly]

I’ll get in touch with them, I need to tinker about with the settings, thanks again
I got my lad on the kart and this is it
https://youtu.be/JdaWyZTlVts
I’ve just bought a smaller rear sprocket so it pulls off little quicker but for now it’s pretty good,

 

[landuse]

I’ll get in touch with them, I need to tinker about with the settings, thanks again
I got my lad on the kart and this is it
https://youtu.be/JdaWyZTlVts
I’ve just bought a smaller rear sprocket so it pulls off little quicker but for now it’s pretty good,

Dang!! That thing moves fast

 

[Bigfillly]

Ha ha thanks very much,
I’ve just changed the settings to max, they were nearly set to max before so it may not go much faster, ill fit the smaller rear sprocket mid week and get it out again and see what it’s like,
Thanks again,
Phil.