Red Talon Build, Trouble With Drive Wheel. Help!

[bobakazooboy]

I've reached a snag in my build. A year in the making, this kart has been difficult to find parts for so I have substituted or fabricated most everything from scratch. It started as a rusted beat up chassis and I cut and extended the frame 12 inches for adult riders. I took it to bare metal and spray canned it back to red. My problem is where the drive wheel hooks to the sprocket. I have increased the size of wheel in the rear to a 12" tire on a 6" wheel hub. The original set up called for a wheel hub that not only had a skinny profile, but was closer to the frame from its midpoint, and it also had its own built in adapter that hooked on at the lug bolts. I'm needing a way to get a longer set of either bolts or some sort of adapter that will fit the wheel and extend out far enough to reach the sprocket so that it will link up true to the centrifugal clutch assembly. So basically it has to be strong enough to take the brunt of the drive wheel and be longer than the double flanged hub thats on there now. If anyone has any insight or knowledge about how to do such a task will you please email me or comment with some feedback.

Thanks!!

 

[Poboy kartman]

My Manco doesn't have a hub, only long bolts with oversized nuts for spacers to locate the sprocket and brake drum away from the rim. So longer bolts and washers and or nuts should work just fine for you.

 

[OzFab]

I'm not saying that's a bad idea, if it works it works but, there's one inherent problem; the setup is only as strong as the rim material. If the rim is made of weak material, the bolts will tend to skew...

A better way would be to use a solid spacer, incorporating all four bolt holes

How far does the sprocket need to move? In or out?

 

[Poboy kartman]

I wasn't suggesting he lose the spacer- just get some longer bolts and washers or nuts to space the sprocket away from it. I guess I should have been clearer. My point was that if my kart was built without a spacer (factory) then merely adding a few washers should be totally safe. It looks like less than 1/2" to me.

And you bring up a good point I should have mentioned- he should space the sprocket away from the spacer not the rim.

 

[bobakazooboy]

Fabroman,

Thanks for the quick reply!

The sprocket itself is fine, it just needs to sit under the clutch so its spinning true with the chain. i'm mostly worried about the tire rubbing with little or no clearance. The wheel interior sits in kinda' far which I didn't really take into account the day I ordered them. You bring up a nice point, and I had given thought to cutting some solid spacers and stacking them between the hub and the inside of the wheel with longer bolts until the hub reaches the sprocket, my concern is that the hub itself has the shorter bolts bolts firmly in there and flat for the bolt heads like they were tapped or driven in. If I were to knock those out and use longer bolts; how would I get the knew bolts to stay as firm as the originals? Could I tack weld them, would that be too hot and melt or bend the metal? I'll try and get a better picture up of the actual area, the last picture shows it somewhat but not good enough.

This image shows what I need to do, although my tire is bigger and I'm sure I will need more space, I also have some 5/8 inner diameter pipe that I special ordered to weld a new steering column on, so I have extra I can cut for spacers on the axle if need be.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1843/karthublb5.jpg

This image shows the current double flanged hub that is on it now.

http://www.bmikarts.com/assets/images/262030.jpg

 

[bobakazooboy]

Poboy,

When you say away from the spacer, not the rim, you are saying that I shouldn't take the integrity away from where the hub meets the wheel?

 

[rocketkart]

you should try finding somthing like this. thay make them for atv's so thay must be strong. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-YAMAHA-GOLF-CART-WHEEL-SPACERS-SPACER-/180367978432

 

[bobakazooboy]

WOW!!! Now that looks about right! rocketkart you just opened up a new world for me, i'm going to check around. Thanks my friend!

 

[rocketkart]

N A P, and good luck.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Poboy,

When you say away from the spacer, not the rim, you are saying that I shouldn't take the integrity away from where the hub meets the wheel?

Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. I'm saying unbolt the sprocket and brake drum and use spacers there. Exactly how far do you need to move it? The sprocket/ brake drum is what is off anyway, correct? There are other reasons to do it, but it is just the best place integrity wise for one. If you cut spacers they must be exact. That's why oversized nuts usually make easy spacers, they are pretty consistent in thickness. Throw in a washer if needed or a washer or two on the axle if the nuts are too wide and you are done.

There is nothing special about the bolts- no need to weld or anything- just make sure that you have enough thread and tighten them up.

Edit: That's why I said longer bolts- ideally they would be exactly as much longer as the originals as what you are spacing- but there is usually some give one way or the other.

Oh- and I just caught that you need to move the wheels on the spindles as well. The cut spacers should be fine for that. ....just still need to know how much we're talking about.

 

[bobakazooboy]

Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. I'm saying unbolt the sprocket and brake drum and use spacers there. Exactly how far do you need to move it? The sprocket/ brake drum is what is off anyway, correct? There are other reasons to do it, but it is just the best place integrity wise for one. If you cut spacers they must be exact. That's why oversized nuts usually make easy spacers, they are pretty consistent in thickness. Throw in a washer if needed or a washer or two on the axle if the nuts are too wide and you are done.

There is nothing special about the bolts- no need to weld or anything- just make sure that you have enough thread and tighten them up.

Edit: That's why I said longer bolts- ideally they would be exactly as much longer as the originals as what you are spacing- but there is usually some give one way or the other.

Oh- and I just caught that you need to move the wheels on the spindles as well. The cut spacers should be fine for that. ....just still need to know how much we're talking about.

Poboy kartman,

I'm going to get a measurement for you as soon as I can get over to the kart. This is a project between a friend and I. It's currently at his house and I haven't been by this week. As soon as I get an exact measurement I will let you know. Your advice seems to be the direction I want to go in so I'd like to keep in touch with you if possible. I appreciate your feedback so far, It's giving me new ideas. Thank You

 

[bobakazooboy]

Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. I'm saying unbolt the sprocket and brake drum and use spacers there. Exactly how far do you need to move it? The sprocket/ brake drum is what is off anyway, correct? There are other reasons to do it, but it is just the best place integrity wise for one. If you cut spacers they must be exact. That's why oversized nuts usually make easy spacers, they are pretty consistent in thickness. Throw in a washer if needed or a washer or two on the axle if the nuts are too wide and you are done.

There is nothing special about the bolts- no need to weld or anything- just make sure that you have enough thread and tighten them up.

Edit: That's why I said longer bolts- ideally they would be exactly as much longer as the originals as what you are spacing- but there is usually some give one way or the other.

Oh- and I just caught that you need to move the wheels on the spindles as well. The cut spacers should be fine for that. ....just still need to know how much we're talking about.

Poboy Kartman,

Thank you so much for your idea. You set me in motion and I finished the kart finally. Here is a picture of the finished product with the drive wheel setup you suggested.

 

[mckutzy]

Going to make a suggestion, Make your throttle cable a larger bend for it may bind and give bad or no throttle response. I had a similar problem on my bike.

 

[landuse]

That kart is looking sweet!!

 

[Poboy kartman]

Poboy Kartman,

Thank you so much for your idea. You set me in motion and I finished the kart finally.

Thanks so much- it's what we are here for....The blind squirrel strikes again! !!!!

The kart is looking good.....

 

[bobakazooboy]

Going to make a suggestion, Make your throttle cable a larger bend for it may bind and give bad or no throttle response. I had a similar problem on my bike.

Thanks for the input. I still have some fine tweaking to do on the engine, cables, etc... Basically nothing is where it will be finally as you see in the pic. I will definatly remember your suggestion when making the ultimate decision on where the throttle cable goes.

 

[bobakazooboy]

That kart is looking sweet!!

Thanks Landuse! Much blood, sweat, and tears lol. It was just a rusty frame when I found it.

 

[Cheato]

Red (Black) Talon Build

Awesome Kart!

Looks like I'm a few days late to the party and you figured it out, but I just finished my Red (black) Talon build and thought I'd share anyway. I ended up fabricating a hub so I could use the chrome wheels, mount a smaller diameter drive sprocket (48T) and fit a torque converter. I ended up using some spacers and longer bolts. So far it's holding up, but not a lot of action just yet. I'll post pics below and if you need additional info, let me know. It's a bit cold here in Chicago so it's only been out once since I finished it...

I''ll post pics in a follow-up post.

 

[Cheato]

Pictures of Red/Blk Talon build

Follow-up pictures to my previous post:

 

[Poboy kartman]

Two things- being a younger brother myself. ....Pic#1: Somebody doesn't look too happy. .....lol.

What is the car on the rack?