Protege's first kart build

[protegenoob17]

So after listening to some advice im not going to use the frame I bought.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/08/9d4b46238cfe7c5b011934a15eda7232.jpg

Instead I'm going to build one from the ground up. I purchased some plans off ebay for 7$ and in my opinion they are very detailed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Go-Kart-Plans-/201183486966?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed77863f6
I'm wanting to make something thats more of a race kart then a yard kart. the plan comes with two chassis to build from. I'm going to build the one on the right.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/08/efb086f27c2576cdec7ce1b80d3f0a87.jpg

I plan to use 1x1 14 gauge square tubing, which should be strong enough. The engine I have choosen for the build is the 420cc predator engine. Go big or go home right. I plan to use 90 amp harbor freight special welder and if that doesn't work I can get my hands on a hobart mig. Ill end up probably asking alot of questions if you guys don't mind. Ill be buying the metal at the end of the week hopefully. So what do you guys think?

Caleb.

 

[firemanjim]

Caleb!
I'm glad you decided not to use that kart. I see too many problems with it. You would be better off starting fresh, or with a different candidate...... Don't go scrapping that kart though. It still could be worked over into a proper kart....
Those plans look pretty good. I would not use the 420 though..... It's too big/heavy for what you're wanting. I'd go with a 212, modified to put out 10+hp. It will cost you less in the short run, and long run..... Clutches for the 420 are in the $200+ range...... For that, I could buy a 212, hop it up, and still take my kids to McDonalds......
And the hf welder will work just fine, but buy/use Lincoln wire. Costs less than hf wire and works a crap load better.....

 

[2SlickNick]

Looking forward to seeing it come to life.

 

[protegenoob17]

Im very excited for this build. Im going to make a wooden scale first, to see if I need to make any adjustments. I've been doing alot of reading on 212 but in all honesty if I hop it up and have a good gear ratio what do you guys think my estimate speed would be? I don't plan on running any events. I just want to go fast lol. Speed deamon here. I think this will be a fun project. After I weld this frame all up I will chop the blue frame and build the ittzy-bittzy for my daughter.

 

[jjensen]

Im very excited for this build. Im going to make a wooden scale first, to see if I need to make any adjustments. I've been doing alot of reading on 212 but in all honesty if I hop it up and have a good gear ratio what do you guys think my estimate speed would be? I don't plan on running any events. I just want to go fast lol. Speed deamon here. I think this will be a fun project. After I weld this frame all up I will chop the blue frame and build the ittzy-bittzy for my daughter.

My bone stock 212 hits 30mph no problem with the governor still on and the weight of the kart + me over 300lbs.

 

[firemanjim]

I'm up closer to 40+mph..... One wheel wonder 2 seater...... And that's with me and one or 2 (small ones) kids with me...... To tell you a speed you will get, you need to tell us tire size, teeth counts, ect.....

 

[protegenoob17]

Well i decided to go a different route with my plans. I want to the engine to sit next to me, then behind me. Once i cut my angles and find a engine then i will finish the frame.

 

[protegenoob17]

Well i got to thinking and switched my mind back to the original plan. Can any of you guys help me out with the jig part? The frame is cut out but i know a few of my angles are off a couple of degrees.
Ive used my hf metal band saw and hf angle finder. One i can get my jig set up itll be tacked welded then im going to send it out to be professionally welded.
On the diy speed calculator it told me the kart should reach 96mph. So safty is my first concern.

 

[chancer]

Sorry cant help with the jig part....
but what did you put in to get 96 mph?

 

[Poboy kartman]

Well....first...take everything off that sheet. of plywood.....find the center (2')...but measure from both sides to be sure....put marks on both ends and pop/draw a center line.....then do the same thing the other way...(4').....

Take each dimension and split it in half working off those center lines....this will give you a symmetrical and square template drawn on the plywood....keeping all your points parallel to both centers....will assure you can get identical and correct angles.....

 

[protegenoob17]

now i know with me sitting in it, it most likely won't reach those speeds nor will i have the road to get to that speed. This engine doesnt have a rev limit but around 12k the valves will start to float and after 10.5k it'll start loosing power. I found that info on another pitbike forum.

 

[OzFab]

Jeez, make up your mind, you're worse than a woman

 

[chancer]

Ok its the 10,500 rpm that must be wrong. You were talking about a hopped up predator 212. That engine will do I think 5000rpm (stock internals) with govner removed.

 

[protegenoob17]

Chancer, im going to be using the engine in the second picture i posted. Its a pitbike engine. 4 speed transmission.

 

[protegenoob17]

Well, here's a update......almost 3 months later lol.

I was wanting to have the go kart frame professionally welded but I don't have patience and to even get it into a shop it was weeks out before it could get done. I decided to but the 90 amp flux welder and some Lincoln wire.
I have most of the rear part of the frame done. I personally think most of my welds came out good besides a couple.


Most of my welds turned out like this:


And here is what a couple of welds turned out:

Do you guys have any tips on how to not have the metal warp? I don't if this pic will do any justice but the tubing is kinda turned.

 

[chancer]

A heavy steel table and good clamps help. But yeah I don't have that either! Um. Tack weld the whole thing in a few spots at each joint first. The metal actually shrinks towards the weld during welding, so you do one side then the other, so it shrinks back some.
But I am no expert someone will come along here shortly and give better hopefully similar advice.

 

[firemanjim]

TAC it all up first. Then weld a little on the left, a and a little on the right.... Switch back and forth so you aren't heating u the metal more than needed, causing it to warp as it gets hot, and cools off...

 

[chancer]

TAC it all up first. Then weld a little on the left, a and a little on the right.... Switch back and forth so you aren't heating u the metal more than needed, causing it to warp as it gets hot, and cools off...

That what I was trying to say. You put it so much more eloquently. Just glad I was right

 

[protegenoob17]

Well the back half is now finished besides welding on the 4 axle bearing carriers.

The only issue I had was still some tweaking in the metal:

 

[protegenoob17]

Well I finished welding the main frame tonight


Alright so I do have a minor question. So as you can see I don't have a welding table or the fancy tool to keep the frame secured while welding. I layed the kart on the floor and stepped on the front and the rear raises up probably 1/4 to 1/2 a inch. Sorry didn't get a photo of that. I did see if the floor was level and it's close enough.
Is there any way to tweak the kart at all?