Problem with Cushman golf cart I want to use in go cart
- Thread starter danfred
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No, you can't!
You can however get a controller that can be set to 48V too..
like this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kds48100e100a24v-48v-mini-brushed-controller-p-285.html
The reason is simple: nearly all controllers nowadays have UNDERvolt protection, to prevent draining the battery cells beyond the point where they cannot be charged anymore.
That value for 48V controllers is not low enough to make use of a 36V bat pack...
generally it's roughly 8 volts below nominal battery voltage, so about 40 Volts on a 48V controller... a 36V bat pack isn't enough.
But the controller I linked earlier as well as the link above are both setable Voltage controllers, the first is limited to 36V max, this one to 48V max (a tiny bit more expensive though)
'sid
You can however get a controller that can be set to 48V too..
like this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kds48100e100a24v-48v-mini-brushed-controller-p-285.html
The reason is simple: nearly all controllers nowadays have UNDERvolt protection, to prevent draining the battery cells beyond the point where they cannot be charged anymore.
That value for 48V controllers is not low enough to make use of a 36V bat pack...
generally it's roughly 8 volts below nominal battery voltage, so about 40 Volts on a 48V controller... a 36V bat pack isn't enough.
But the controller I linked earlier as well as the link above are both setable Voltage controllers, the first is limited to 36V max, this one to 48V max (a tiny bit more expensive though)
'sid
Got that controller, but I am a little confused with the install. I have a mechanical reverse switch, I think the one in the wiring diagram is electric reverse.
http://kellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKDSUserManual.pdf
what can u tall me about the difference between the install on these two.
Thanks
Dan
http://kellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKDSUserManual.pdf
what can u tall me about the difference between the install on these two.
Thanks
Dan
Show us what you got, otherwise it's impossible to tell.
'sid
'sid
![IMG_1708[1].jpg](https://www.diygokarts.com/community/data/attachments/57/57279-d79be74931639633752f31fd93e62e97.jpg "IMG_1708[1].jpg")
![IMG_1709[1].jpg](https://www.diygokarts.com/community/data/attachments/57/57280-2fded92d1022d2e4aa60adcc49d5b303.jpg "IMG_1709[1].jpg")
![IMG_1707[1].jpg](https://www.diygokarts.com/community/data/attachments/57/57281-3351ae85d7eb48568079252731e3470c.jpg "IMG_1707[1].jpg")
![IMG_1719[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/57/57290-87ccd46b549e940f1dd6c448462b51f6.jpg)
So that's not a reverse switch (it is.. but hear me out)
it's the reverse contactor; and it'd need to be connected like a contactor would..
Frankly, that thing is scary to say the least.
all open uninsulated terminals... with enough Amps to kill several humans at once!
I wouldn't want to get in arms reach when it got wet.
So if you want to use it;
at least build a splash proof case around it (some plastic container with a sealed lid; and some throughhole grommets for the wiring and the switch)
When the contacts wear down a bit they'll spark, add a drop of water and it'll short;
pumping several amps through whatever's close enough or in electrical contact....
you do NOT want that to happen!
Also keeping the contacts themselves as clean as possible, makes it more reliable
The motor is still attached; so just connecting M (controller) to the last brass terminal should do the trick.
Only thing left, is connecting A1 (motor terminal) to the positive battery.
Do not forget to add fuses wherever the schematics list them (page 9 in the linked manual)
'sid
it's the reverse contactor; and it'd need to be connected like a contactor would..
Frankly, that thing is scary to say the least.
all open uninsulated terminals... with enough Amps to kill several humans at once!
I wouldn't want to get in arms reach when it got wet.
So if you want to use it;
at least build a splash proof case around it (some plastic container with a sealed lid; and some throughhole grommets for the wiring and the switch)
When the contacts wear down a bit they'll spark, add a drop of water and it'll short;
pumping several amps through whatever's close enough or in electrical contact....
you do NOT want that to happen!
Also keeping the contacts themselves as clean as possible, makes it more reliable
The motor is still attached; so just connecting M (controller) to the last brass terminal should do the trick.
Only thing left, is connecting A1 (motor terminal) to the positive battery.
Do not forget to add fuses wherever the schematics list them (page 9 in the linked manual)
'sid
so I presume that there is a newer style reverse switch then, I was guessing there was. I will use this one to make sure my design worked=s then replace components as I can.
thanks
thanks
So that's not a reverse switch (it is.. but hear me out)
it's the reverse contactor; and it'd need to be connected like a contactor would..
Frankly, that thing is scary to say the least.
all open uninsulated terminals... with enough Amps to kill several humans at once!
I wouldn't want to get in arms reach when it got wet.
So if you want to use it;
at least build a splash proof case around it (some plastic container with a sealed lid; and some throughhole grommets for the wiring and the switch)
When the contacts wear down a bit they'll spark, add a drop of water and it'll short;
pumping several amps through whatever's close enough or in electrical contact....
you do NOT want that to happen!
Also keeping the contacts themselves as clean as possible, makes it more reliable
The motor is still attached; so just connecting M (controller) to the last brass terminal should do the trick.
Only thing left, is connecting A1 (motor terminal) to the positive battery.
Do not forget to add fuses wherever the schematics list them (page 9 in the linked manual)
'sid
Wheelchock
New member
Personally, I'd steer clear of the Cushman motor.
You will be limited to the pulley and belt arrangement that comes with it as Cushman uses a tapered shaft.
You may also find it tough to get any other size 'driven' pulley than the one on the differential that you have now. I was not able to find an aftermarket pulley that had the same belt pattern either.
Since my Cushman project was a personnel carrier and not a go kart, I was looking for more power.
Most of the Cushman motors are rated 3HP at 36 volts (3000 rpm) and 4 HP at 48 volts (4000 rpm) so applying 48 volts to a 36 volt motor is not 'over-volting'. Its just using the higher end of its design parameters.
Ultimately, I ended up using a different motor with a standard shaft and boring the Cushman pulley to match that size. I'm now somewhat limited on my acceleration by the belts but not too much.
I do have the old Cushman motor that came with my project if anyone is interested.
You will be limited to the pulley and belt arrangement that comes with it as Cushman uses a tapered shaft.
You may also find it tough to get any other size 'driven' pulley than the one on the differential that you have now. I was not able to find an aftermarket pulley that had the same belt pattern either.
Since my Cushman project was a personnel carrier and not a go kart, I was looking for more power.
Most of the Cushman motors are rated 3HP at 36 volts (3000 rpm) and 4 HP at 48 volts (4000 rpm) so applying 48 volts to a 36 volt motor is not 'over-volting'. Its just using the higher end of its design parameters.
Ultimately, I ended up using a different motor with a standard shaft and boring the Cushman pulley to match that size. I'm now somewhat limited on my acceleration by the belts but not too much.
I do have the old Cushman motor that came with my project if anyone is interested.
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